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PostPosted: January 5, 2009, 5:07 pm 
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i am contemplating using the gibbs rear suspension, because it seems like the sierra and t-bird track width numbers are about the same. Any concerns?

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PostPosted: January 12, 2009, 5:19 pm 
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hmm... i haven't posted any progress in a while...


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PostPosted: February 25, 2009, 2:29 pm 
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it was the best of times.... it was the worst of times....

engine, drivetrain, etc. are out of the car, 8)
but the frame is a little out of square... when i measure it corner to corner one measurement is 3/8th of an inch longer than the other.. i figured out that it is the seating square is out of square :BH: i might just have to cut that out (it is fully welded in) and rebuild it. then, kinda force the rest of the frame into position well i weld it in again..

any other suggestions would be welcome...

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PostPosted: February 25, 2009, 2:52 pm 
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I'd pretend like I never noticed it.

As long as the suspension pick-up points are square to each other and the left suspension matches the right suspension, that is all that matters.

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PostPosted: February 25, 2009, 4:23 pm 
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Put some ratchet straps on the long corners of the frame and tighten. It should be able to tweak a little until its square.

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PostPosted: February 25, 2009, 11:08 pm 
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Nice work so far.

I also have been planning a 3.8 S/C build using Miata based suspension. I'm getting close to starting, but I also have a Subaru affliction that keeps suckering me over.

I chose to use a second generation RX7 differential. It's the same as a '94+ Miata diff, but has a longer nose on it so you don't have to mess with a Powerplant frame. The RX7 diff will accept Miata axles, has a clutch-type LSD (vs. Torsen) and (for me) was way cheaper. There is also a turbo version that should have no problems with the T-bird motor.

To deal with the Mazda diff ratio, I upgraded the cam. I told CompCams I really wasn't interested in more power, but wanted to raise the powerband to a higher RPM. I trust what they sent me, but we'll see :wink: . I upgraded the valvesprings and retainers for the RPM increase. I had the rotating assembly balanced, and had the valves unshouded a bit for slightly better flow. I also picked up some secondhand lightened pullies, lightened flywheel and the larger '94-'95 S/C pully to slow down the blower. Along with 'larger than Miata' wheels, I think I'll be OK with the revs. But with a factory rating of 210HP and 315 Ft/lbs (before any upgrades) I do expect first gear to be completely optional. :twisted:

I've collected quite a bit of literature (and SuperCoupe knowledge) for my project, so feel free to ask any questions you may run into. :D I've got good wiring diagrams for the '90 model year. Lots of good reading over here: http://www.sccoa.com/forums/


Last edited by PhyrraM on February 26, 2009, 12:03 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: February 25, 2009, 11:46 pm 
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killernoodle wrote:
Put some ratchet straps on the long corners of the frame and tighten. It should be able to tweak a little until its square.


Not gonna work too well if some of the tubes are longer on one side. I think a.moore has it right, just make sure the pickup points are good.

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PostPosted: February 26, 2009, 2:24 am 
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He said it was out of square, the tubes are probably the right length just welded crooked :)

In this case, 2 ratchet straps should pull the frame back to square nicely, just go slow and try to square up one segment of the frame at a time. Since it is not fully welded yet (I hope) this should work nicely like it worked for my slightly tweaked frame (off 1/4" diagonally)

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PostPosted: February 26, 2009, 3:02 am 
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a.moore wrote:
I'd pretend like I never noticed it.

As long as the suspension pick-up points are square to each other and the left suspension matches the right suspension, that is all that matters.


+1 :agree:

If you were still in the base plane, perhaps stretching it back into shape would work. But since you're well into 3D and have a lot of your triangulation in place, I would not attempt to bend it back. For the cockpit square to move, everything else is going to have to move, and it will not be willing. Even if you do get it to budge (I don't think a nylon strap would do it...*maybe* a come-along), you'd be stressing other members in all kinds of fun ways.

Just get your suspension pickups right. 3/8" is certainly out of spec, but honestly, I don't think it will cause you any grief, or even be detectable.

My $0.02 worth, and worth even less, YMMV, etc.,
-dave

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PostPosted: February 26, 2009, 5:19 am 
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Scrubbles,
If the floor isn't welded into the frame yet, why not try to "get it into position" and then weld the floor into it. Perhaps this would hold everything in place and square. After taking some measurements I noticed that my frame was about a 1/4" off my build table on the right side. My plan is to position it nice and flat and level. Clamp it into place. Then weld the floor in.

Just a thought! Seems like it could work! Of course, this is assuming my build table is level, which it is not. I guess I need to fix that first! :roll:

SamM

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PostPosted: February 26, 2009, 8:48 am 
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wow, thanks for all the great feed back!
i am going to try the ratchet straps first (can't hurt, can it?), and it all else fails; pretend it never happened. i am Contemplating changing the
positions of some of the diagonal members any ways so they would not experience the aforementioned stress.

PhyrraM, your build sounds great, if i actually had any money :roll: i would do the same...

i will post pictures of the engine and all the "Mods" that the previous owner installed

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PostPosted: February 26, 2009, 12:35 pm 
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dhempy wrote:
a.moore wrote:
I'd pretend like I never noticed it.

As long as the suspension pick-up points are square to each other and the left suspension matches the right suspension, that is all that matters.


+1 :agree:

If you were still in the base plane, perhaps stretching it back into shape would work. But since you're well into 3D and have a lot of your triangulation in place, I would not attempt to bend it back. For the cockpit square to move, everything else is going to have to move, and it will not be willing. Even if you do get it to budge (I don't think a nylon strap would do it...*maybe* a come-along), you'd be stressing other members in all kinds of fun ways.

Just get your suspension pickups right. 3/8" is certainly out of spec, but honestly, I don't think it will cause you any grief, or even be detectable.

My $0.02 worth, and worth even less, YMMV, etc.,
-dave


Ratcheting straps definitely have the pulling power to move stuff into shape, even the crappy ones I have were able to straighten my frame with some gentle persuasion before I final welded it. They also came in handy bending my curved dashboard tubing to make more room for the diff.

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PostPosted: March 1, 2009, 5:53 pm 
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trial fit of engine yesterday...

:shock:

That's tight! it might need a little modifacation just to fit!


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PostPosted: March 1, 2009, 6:08 pm 
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wheres the engine???


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PostPosted: March 1, 2009, 6:13 pm 
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richmk1 wrote:
wheres the engine???

that mess of blue pulleys and corroded metal suspended by the engine crane is the engine...

it can go down farther, but the power steering pump needs to come off.

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