LocostUSA.com

no my steering rack is an aftermarket woodward unit. the only s10 bits I'm using are the knuckles and my rear axle.

thanks.

I am moving my brakes so they mount on the floor rather than hanging from the box above. i relised there was a space conflict a while back, and made believe that it didnt exist until recently. So I moved the 3 master cylinders to the panel close to the bottom, and the pedals will mount to the floor. I will be cutting off the old brake box, and using that area to mount my ignition packs



new pedals. i still ne to made the actual pad that my foot will press against/ the one on the left is the clutch and on the right is the brake. it still needs to be fully welded but that will wait until its almost finished.



Woohooo! The brown santa (aka ups) came for a visit! i should have bought a shorter muffler, this one is kinda long, but it will do for now. i still need to purchase some flex tube and make the mounts for this.



I'm not sure which side the exaust should come in. I feel like an idiot. I'm pretty sure the exaust comes in this side and leaves the other, someone wanna confirm this?

Derf

You can actually mount the muffler in either direction. In the picture with the darts facing you, "gas flow directed into them" will be more restrictive but you should have reduced noise levels. With the Exhaust gas flowing over the back side of the darts you will slightly better flow and a higher bd level.
Option 1 or option 2 Dave W

my exhaust guy has always to me to mount them with the smooth side towards the engine.

Maybe he just likes it loud!

Wow, you can get those shocks cheap off ebay. I'm bidding on some right now, only a few dollars plus shipping. Good find

Do you guys know for a fact that the valving on the bike shocks is appropriate for your cars? Reason I ask, if the stock spring rate is ~600lbs/in, and you're changing them to 150lbs springs, I would expect the valving to be way too stiff now... by a factor of 4 or so...

Anyone here driving a finished car on bike shocks? How does it ride?

The fact they're inexpensive means little if they don't work in your application.

_________________
Midlana book: Build this mid-engine Locost!, http://midlana.com/stuff/book/
Kimini book: Designing mid-engine cars using FWD drivetrains
Both available from https://www.lulu.com/

Yes, when hitting a one-wheel bump, or cornering, it will indeed make a fair difference. OTOH, hitting a bump where both wheels hit the bump at the same time, it will not make any difference.

Worst case, if the shocks are located on the centerline of the car, the car can be pushed over by hand - zero roll resistance. OTOH, putting them all the way to tire centerline (an impossible feat) will give maximum roll stiffness for the given springs.

Putting them part way along the axle will give some intermediate result.

_________________
Midlana book: Build this mid-engine Locost!, http://midlana.com/stuff/book/
Kimini book: Designing mid-engine cars using FWD drivetrains
Both available from https://www.lulu.com/

Well from what I have read so far, it seems there is an adjustment on the valve to change the dampening rate.

After looking around a little bit more, I found an article at MotorcycleUSA.com that said the following:

Fully adjustable means

Sounds like a nice shock, just wonder how adjustable it is. The shock is off a 9000 dollar full race bike, so it is probably pretty good. I will post what I find the spring rates to be when I get mine.

Exactly. Most adjustable shocks on a given vehicle are adjustable quite a bit, in the stiffer direction, but not softer. I'd guess most adjustable shocks come nearly full soft, letting owners "crank them up." If so, that's a problem because our cars have a far lower spring rate - we need adjustability, yes, but in the softer direction.

We can't assume any shock will work on any car; case in point, the double-adjustable Konis I bought (at fricken enormous expense) for my Mini. The place I bought them from had one question, "what is the spring rate you'll use." That value dictated how they valved the shocks. If I told them I was using 600lb springs, they valved them, then later I changed them to 150lb springs, I would not expect them to be adjustable by that degree.

If someone offers you suspension springs but can't tell you the rate, would you buy them? Buying just any old shocks has this same problem - what are you getting? Yes, shocks are adjustable unlike springs, but not from zero to infinity... Having said all this, if people here have already used R1 shocks successfully, great, it's a terrific source of inexpensive high quality shocks. But until someone does I wouldn't let cost alone be the guide - we just have no idea what we're getting.

_________________
Midlana book: Build this mid-engine Locost!, http://midlana.com/stuff/book/
Kimini book: Designing mid-engine cars using FWD drivetrains
Both available from https://www.lulu.com/

Ok so here is my update for this month...

I went out to work on the car for an hour sunday morning, I opened up the garage, swept up the floor, organized myself, and my phone went off, had to go pick up the kids from grandmas house, so my one chance to work on it was blown...

hey derf, can you do me a huge favor? take some pretty detailed pictures of how you mounted your motor? after fabing up some chassis side motor mounts i've found the motor sits WAY to high up. i'd like to see how you got yours to sit so low. i appreciate it.

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**Build diary**

Derf,

Hey man, haven't seen you around in a while but if you read this will you do me a huge favor? Snap a few closeup shots of how you designed your motor mounts. I'm trying to use the factory motor brackets but they make the motor sit too high up so I will need to fab up something else and your motor appears to be at just the right height. BTW I'm using a 13b rotary as well if you didn't know. Thanks man and hope to see some updates from you in the future.

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**Build diary**