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PostPosted: April 14, 2016, 4:53 am 
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I found this just now. They list the 6104 as being for the Ford T-5. No mention of world class, but I would imagine that it would be. Hope it is of some help.
https://tiltonracing.com/wp-content/upl ... Series.pdf

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PostPosted: April 17, 2016, 5:53 pm 
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Location: Alberta
I got in contact with Tilton, and after Ken made fun of me for providing the bearing retainer diameter using a fraction after measuring it with a caliper, was informed that the 6000 series should fit on th T5 WC. Another nice thing is that I believe I only have one expensive item left, the gauges.

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PostPosted: June 1, 2016, 3:27 pm 
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I'm thinking of going with an inboard front suspension, does anyone see an issue with utilizing these R1 linkages for the rocker?

Image

As it sits right now, my shock mount and headlight mount are one and the same. I'd like to hide the wiring and I'm having trouble packaging the wiring, the headlight mounting hardware, and the shock mounting hardware in one efficient package. As it sits now (if I proceed), I have to jack the car up, take the shock off, disconnect the lights, and pull the wiring though the body just to tighten the headlight assembly if it wiggles loose. An inboard suspension would eliminate alot of my issues and only require four more mounts. I have quite a bit up room up front, the only downside I can think of is the angle of the arm from the LCA to the rocker would be reduced, does this matter within reason, assuming I've got a good angle from the rocker to the shock and the correct springs?

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PostPosted: September 9, 2016, 2:23 pm 
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Have pretty much tidied up the wiring, and bonus, it all still works, so decided to pull the engine to install the HTO bearing for the clutch. I installed it, spent 20 minutes looking for one of the bell housing bolts my 14 month old was playing with, spent another 20 minutes trying to determine if she'd thrown in the rad outlet/inlet, exhaust, or coolant inlet/outlet on the engine before giving up (found it a few days later), and putting it all back together. Double checked everything and attempted a start, only to be rewarded with no start, smoke, and the sound of electricity don't things I didn't want it to do. Triple checked everything, pulled out the multimeter, tried again, only to be met with a similar result. Much later, I determined that my driveshaft was acting as the ground for the engine, and I didn't reinstalled it as I don't have a clutch safety switch hooked up yet and don't want to redo my front end, and without said driveshaft, the engine/tranny was arcing out on whatever was closest. Hooked up a ground strap of sorts, and everything is good in the garage. As soon as I bleed the clutch MC, theoretically it should be drivable, which is quite different than streetable, but the rear wheels should turn.

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PostPosted: September 12, 2016, 3:25 pm 
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Some photos to go with the above post.


You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.

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PostPosted: September 13, 2016, 1:29 pm 
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Location: Carlsbad, California, USA
Nice job on the shock mounts. One of my Locost building frustrations is getting out of practice welding as I only do it periodically as parts are fabricated. Some of my welds look excellent and some look like pelican sh*t.

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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PostPosted: September 13, 2016, 5:59 pm 
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I like it. Nice and clean. Now I have to ask. Will you be braking this thing down to paint the frame? I have seen guys do this in the past.

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PostPosted: September 13, 2016, 9:28 pm 
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Tundra 7 wrote:
I like it. Nice and clean. Now I have to ask. Will you be braking this thing down to paint the frame? I have seen guys do this in the past.


Thats the plan, getting it running prior to paint. It kinda sucks working on a rusty car, but I don't want to be grinding paint/primer off because I missed a weld/bracket.

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PostPosted: September 13, 2016, 10:29 pm 
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Trochu wrote:
Tundra 7 wrote:
I like it. Nice and clean. Now I have to ask. Will you be braking this thing down to paint the frame? I have seen guys do this in the past.


Thats the plan, getting it running prior to paint. It kinda sucks working on a rusty car, but I don't want to be grinding paint/primer off because I missed a weld/bracket.


I understand. I caved, couldn't take it anymore. So far I haven't run into the rouge bracket. I had a friend badgering me on powder coating the frame. Then the bracket thing got in my head and that I couldn't do. I wish I had done it now. Paint comes off easy.

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PostPosted: September 13, 2016, 11:08 pm 
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I'm pleased to announce that the car now move under its own power! I don't have brakes, or fluid in my diff, or.... but the clutch works. One of the high points of the build so far.

Thanks for the help in getting me to this point! :cheers:

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PostPosted: September 14, 2016, 12:45 am 
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:zoom:
Congratulations on the major milestone. :cheers:

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PostPosted: September 14, 2016, 5:34 am 
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Nice job on a long road completed. That has to sound great!!!! Nothing like a V8.

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PostPosted: September 14, 2016, 8:31 am 
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Good job! :cheers:

Great feeling to get the engine running.

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PostPosted: September 14, 2016, 9:03 am 
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:yay:

Congratulations! Moving under it's own power is a major milestone.

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PostPosted: September 14, 2016, 9:20 am 
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Boy, that's got to feel good! Congrats :cheers:

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