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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: December 8, 2019, 8:18 pm 
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Joined: December 8, 2019, 6:57 pm
Posts: 30
Greetings!
After using a lot of info found here on my plannings, I have some pics worthy of sharing. I'll need to get used to post on forums again, last I've used them was 10 years ago when I was a teenager building plastic models. That's also when I've decided to build a Seven

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Before tacking this project, and to gather experience, I've restored the car my father gave me when I turned 18, a 1980 VW Brasilia. She went from this:

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To this:

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Now that she's restored, we decided to start the Seven. After some searching, we scored a car so good, we would give up on tearing it apart if it wasn't already with a scrap title. A 1988 Chevrolet Chevette SL, 1.6l, 5spd, ethanol, with low mileage and in good shape. Our seven will be basically a 4 wheeled travel motorcycle, and this is the best motor/box combo for this purpose. It came home yesterday.

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(Also the seller is another Brasilia enthusiast)

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Motor is in pretty good shape. Last owner removed the alternator and starter for some reason. I'm mounting them back so we can run the engine before tearing the car apart.

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Today I removed a bunch of body parts, removed the rad so my aircooled VW brain understands the engine better (still I'm missing the oil leaks everywhere), and to make room for alternator and wiring loom works, mounted the starter, witch required removing the intake manifold, and changed the oil and filter. Tomorrow a mechanic will bring a alternator support that's missing and help me start the engine. I need to take this car appart before the weekend, as I'll travel and need the Brasilia's parking spot back.

It's good to have somewhere to chat about this project with people that understands the matter, thanks for being here guys.


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Last edited by Marcus_GT500 on December 10, 2019, 12:41 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: December 8, 2019, 9:46 pm 
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Joined: July 29, 2006, 9:10 pm
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Location: Oregon, usually
I've approved your post, as your text is convincing, BUT your images didn't show up, probably because you need to have two posts approved before you can post photos. If that's not why, try this:

1. Put the photo into your own computer (the one you're using to post) as a .jpg. Remember the filename.
2. Write the text of your post.
3. Scroll down to the <Upload attachments> section.
4. Click <Browse...> and find your photo (by filename).
5. Click the filename.
6. Click <Add the file>.
7. Click <Preview> and if you like the results, click <Submit>.

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PostPosted: December 8, 2019, 10:47 pm 
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Location: Holden, Alberta, Canada
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=12234
Marcus is it?
Don't know if you have seen this, hope it helps

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PostPosted: December 9, 2019, 8:11 am 
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We are Slotus!
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Joined: October 6, 2009, 9:29 am
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Location: Tallahassee, FL (The Center of the Known Universe)
Good morning Marcus, and welcome to the forum.
Hope you get the picture thing sorted out, we all like pictures. Yours sounds like an interesting project, I look forward to following along.

Good luck, and keep the posting coming-
:cheers:
JDK

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PostPosted: December 9, 2019, 7:11 pm 
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Joined: December 8, 2019, 6:57 pm
Posts: 30
JackMcCornack, I do believe it was because this was my first post on this forum. I'm using the links from my OneDrive files (copied via browser), does it work or may I change my upload method?
This is my second post so please tell me if the images are showing up for you, as they showed up for my first time.

horchoha thanks for the reference, will surelly use it as I plan my build

GonzoRacer, thank you, I hope it works too.


Last edited by Marcus_GT500 on December 10, 2019, 7:19 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: December 10, 2019, 9:30 am 
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The pictures can be uploaded to our site. In your post you are using the "img" button. Scroll to the bottom of the window and use the "upload attachment" feature.

Welcome to our forum and thank you for your contribution...
:rally:

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PostPosted: December 10, 2019, 7:18 pm 
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Joined: December 8, 2019, 6:57 pm
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I think I got the hang of this. Are the images showing?
Last 2 days were spended removing body and interior parts, and droping the front subchassis, along with the engine and transmission. Now it's all on the ground.
Tomorrow I will drop the rear axle, tag and remove the rest of the wiring loom and hopefully lift the body. Them we can take the parts to the shop.
Also the square tubes came today.


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PostPosted: December 11, 2019, 8:54 pm 
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Joined: December 8, 2019, 6:57 pm
Posts: 30
Productive day. The car was stripped and taken away.

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Now to organize the resulting mess.

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I've built a small wooden cart to help move the parts.

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PostPosted: December 14, 2019, 5:00 pm 
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Joined: December 8, 2019, 6:57 pm
Posts: 30
I was looking around some builds and there's something I don't understand. Why most builders remove the brake booster? Wouldn't it be safer if it was renained?


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PostPosted: December 14, 2019, 5:17 pm 
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Joined: August 2, 2009, 3:34 pm
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Location: Alberta
Three main reasons I removed mine, it was huge, and there isn't alot of room under there, it complicates the build, and I need all the help I can get, and these cars are really light, doesn't take much pedal pressure to be effective.

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PostPosted: December 14, 2019, 5:30 pm 
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Good points. Thanks. Hadn't throught about the car's lack of weight making it easier to brake. This will come in handy as I'll be using VW Beetle pedals, so a VW master cilinder will bolt almost right up (I'll have to make another shaft for the pushrod on the other side of the pedal to clear the transmission). And I can adapt the existing booster on the Brasilia, even thought it doesn't really need it for the same reasons.


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PostPosted: December 17, 2019, 9:11 am 
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Joined: September 22, 2005, 8:12 am
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Location: 4AGE in S.E. Michigan
If you are using VW Beetle pedals, [floor mounted] then it will be difficult to package a booster on the brake system in the limited area in front of the foot well. I think you will find that it is a lot easier to lock-up the front brakes, with a very light car. But if you do feel you need lighter applied brake pedal pressure once it is built, you can always change the lever ratio, to dial in the exact feel you are looking for.
Davew


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PostPosted: December 19, 2019, 6:41 am 
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Joined: December 8, 2019, 6:57 pm
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Thanks, written down.


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PostPosted: December 20, 2019, 5:47 pm 
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I'm back from the trip. Ilhabela, Brazil, visit it if you can, beautifull place.
Mostly rest day today, but we started cutting the tubes.

Attachment:
IMG_20191220_165337380.jpg


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PostPosted: December 21, 2019, 9:28 am 
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Marcus
Rule number 731 :shock:
DO NOT pre-cut all your tubes. You are going to run into tolerance stack up. One tube may be 1mm long and the next a 1mm short. It will be much easier to keep things symmetrical, cutting and fitting each tube one at a time. Also 90% of your initial frame assembly welds should just be tack welds. If you have to change or move a tube it will be much easier to cut the tack welds. Plus the frame will be much more stable when final welding, with the complete frame assembly tack welded together.
I would suggest that you go and look at some of the posting in the frame section for assembly techniques.
Dave


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