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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: Thu Aug 24, 2006 9:50 pm 
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Joined: Mon Aug 15, 2005 10:13 pm
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Location: Charleston, WV
Looks good. Have you measured to see if it is square? I'll be welding up my frame soon so I'm curious just how much bracing you have to do to the tubes as you weld them.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 24, 2006 9:58 pm 
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I just did that, the bottom is square but the top forward of the rear most H tube is not. It's off quite a bit, I will have to redo it.


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 24, 2006 10:50 pm 
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Location: Charleston, WV
eMKay wrote:
I just did that, the bottom is square but the top forward of the rear most H tube is not. It's off quite a bit, I will have to redo it.

It's just tacked though right. Is it just warpage or are the tubes not the right length? Maybe you can bend it.


Last edited by chetcpo on Fri Aug 25, 2006 12:47 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 25, 2006 12:34 am 
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Location: Sunny-Okanagan, Canada, eh?!
When you do the rear kickup, move the RU tubes inboard enough that you can get a good radius on the corners of the V tube. Preferrably to match the top tube radius.

Also make sure the W tubes are on the inboard side of your 4" shock mount plate - otherwise shocks might not fit there.

Also add a gusset of some sort to cover the sides of the rear upper shock mount, much like CMC did on theirs. This helps hide an unsightly gap between the fenders and the shock plate.

This is just my opinion though, I could be wrong.

G

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 25, 2006 10:28 am 
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chetcpo wrote:
eMKay wrote:
I just did that, the bottom is square but the top forward of the rear most H tube is not. It's off quite a bit, I will have to redo it.

It's just tacked though right. Is it just warpage or are the tubes not the right length? Maybe you can bend it.


It's just tacked, the J tubes were not aligned right, I fixed it this morning, it's still not perfect, it's off by 3/32nds now.


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PostPosted: Sat Aug 26, 2006 5:44 pm 
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More progress on the frame, still need to build the tranny tunnel.

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PostPosted: Sat Aug 26, 2006 8:05 pm 
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Location: Sunny-Okanagan, Canada, eh?!
Watch those rear W tubes - make sure there's enough room for shocks.

G

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PostPosted: Sun Aug 27, 2006 11:19 am 
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SkinnyG wrote:
Watch those rear W tubes - make sure there's enough room for shocks.

G


I made sure, I had to move them in a bit.

I orderde the VW tie rods, they fit and are really light. And cheap.


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PostPosted: Mon Aug 28, 2006 12:06 pm 
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Tranny tunnel is tacked in, rear axle test fit, looks good. Once I have the tranny (should be here this week) I can test fit it with the engine and fully weld the tunnel, or just use this frame as a template for welding it out of sheet steel, that way I can gain an extra 1.5" of interior room by eliminating the tubes. I can also fit the triangulation tubes into the rear now, and complete the rollbar/shock mounting platform. I'm kinda stuck after that though, I don't have the sheet steel for the floor yet, or the 1/8" plate for the shock/rollbar mount, OR the 3/4" DOM for the control arms. I have the rest od the DOM tubing for the suspension but the place I ordered it from screwed up and didn't sent the 3/4" tube. So once I finish with all the square tubing I have to wait until I can continue. I can finish stripping the axle and start tearing down the engine.



Image

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PostPosted: Wed Aug 30, 2006 4:56 pm 
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The frame is almost done, I just need to get the sheet steel and make the floor, firewall, and cover the tranny tunnel.

Image

I started the rear suspension, these are the brackets that the 4 links, panhard bar, and shocks will bolt to, they will be welded to the axle. I got tired of being pelted with hot metal from cutting so I called it a day. I think I want to go with threaded rods for the links

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PostPosted: Fri Sep 01, 2006 7:44 pm 
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Test fit of pedals, the Swift/Metro pedal box is perfect, sits right on top of the tube in the perfect spot...
Image


Modified rear axle and links, the axle is 56.75" at the drums, or about 3.75" wider than the book Escort axle so I'm making the front 4" wider...
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First upper control arm...
Image


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 02, 2006 6:13 pm 
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Location: Corning NY
Looking really good EMKAY! Are you planning on racing it next summer? Is that the planned completation date?


Keep up the good work!

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PostPosted: Sat Sep 02, 2006 7:47 pm 
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KENLUDE97 wrote:
Looking really good EMKAY! Are you planning on racing it next summer? Is that the planned completation date?


Keep up the good work!


Absolutely! As long as it has 4 wheels, a seat, and moves under it's own power, I'm towing it to an autocross. It should be at that stage by winter.


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PostPosted: Sat Sep 02, 2006 7:52 pm 
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Since I made two huge mistakes the control arm completion will be delayed, I made the top wishbone with the book offset, which is wrong. And I made it along with ALL the rear arms with the wrong size tubes for the bushings. I used 16gauge instead of the 13/16" stuff that the bushings I ordered need to fit. But that didn't stop me from making the lowers...without the bush tubes for now. Since they are 2" longer than book I made them from 1" tubing.

Image

And it also didn't stop me from setting fire to my saw...I don't think this $100 POS was designed for this task :)

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 06, 2006 9:53 pm 
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Lots of progress over the last few days, I am 90% done with the frame, I just have to cover the tranny tunnel and firewall with sheet steel, and touch up and grind some sloppy welds. Then once I get the transmission (which is STILL not here) I can test fit the engine, make the motor mounts, and transmission mount.

It's off the build table now, as it sits the frame weighs 145lbs, figure on another 10lbs of steel and bracing.

Image

Brackets are all installed finally, this took 3 days, they won't be fully welded until I'm sure they are right.
Image


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