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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: August 16, 2017, 1:03 pm 
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Location: meadview arizona
Dale,

you have a gem there, you have spent forever doing that bodywork, do you really want to cheap out on the paint?

painting a car is easy believe me i used to teach students at a college how to paint, we had a saying, "if you can piss, you can paint" the difficult part is knowing what to do if you have a problem like "fish eye",if this shows up STOP because there is some contaminate on the substrate or in the air like silica and until the source is found you will not get rid of it.

before you paint it you will need to wash it thoroughly twice due to contaminates in the substrate then apply a good sealer to capture those materials you used in the bodywork! this is MOST IMPORTANT, the best is Barcoat quick drying isolator from http://www.tptools.com two quarts/liters should do the trick.

then you can paint it with a urethane base/clear from "Paint for cars", three coats of base and three coats of clearcoat

get yourself a Harbor Fright gun, not the purple one they do a better one for a little more cash.

if you are unsure you could do a test piece, get a scrap piece of metal about 1' x 1' and coat it with all the materials used on the body, then let dry for about a week, sand it with a 320 grit disc and leave for another week, wipe with degreaser or mineral spirits, then tack rag now apply the isolator just one covering coat wet, carefully nib out anY bits, do not sand the whole thing, apply the base coat and allow to flash off then the clear, allow to dry for a week then finish sand and polish, this is the same procedure for the whole car.

if it has some surface imperfections you can knock the finished surface back with an electric palm sander again from HF with a speed reducer in the line that they sell for routers, some 1500 or finer grit discs from festool, get a box and a foam backing pad from tptools.com, keep off the corners or mask them up before sanding, this should take care of any bits in the paint and any orange peel in the finish.

then you can polish it with a polisher and foam mop using a suitable compound (3M).

always wipe with degreaser and tack rag the surface between products with the tacky tack rags not the blue ones

that's it really, not much to it, you will have a top class job, i did my car with these products 4 years ago and it still looks show car good, no fade, no dullness in the gloss and resistant to stone chips ( i live on a dirt road in Arizona )
paint problems occur even to the best of us, i can give you advice on these if need be.

if you can, apply some "stone chip" to the front of the car as there is a lot of bodywork that is painted in that area, once applied, this can be sanded smooth and blended into the rest of the surface where it transitions to the top of the hood and fenders, apply this before the isolator.

try to get some "soft face additive" like used for flexible plastic bumpers for the finish coats on the front of your car as this will help stop stone chips

please oh please do not cheap out and use other products," Brightside" will oxidize and loose its gloss so will "Rustolium" and neither one will resist chips, laquer will go dull if not kept waxed and is hard to get a gloss from the gun, you will need to wet sand it and keep it polished.

lastly a word or two about technique (guncraft) spray about a clenched fist (6") away from the vehicle at right angle to the surface with 50% overlap on passes, DO NOT STOP THE GUN, apply paint to the things like wheel arch lips FIRST, paint from one side to the other ( start at the bottom of one side, go up and over the car and down the other side and finish at the bottom ), spray past the ends of the panel and flick the gun away at the end of each pass, watch your overlap on adjoining panels to avoid runs especially on corners, if you have a run, leave it till its dry DO NOT TRY TO SAND OUT A RUN, you will always rub through the paint before the run is gone, when completely dry and hard before finish sanding scrape the run away with a razor blade dragging it down the run carefully until level with the finish then finish sand and polish.

there you are, painting cars in one easy lesson.

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PostPosted: August 16, 2017, 2:16 pm 
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We need a save button or something like that so we can save these great write ups like this one.

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PostPosted: August 23, 2017, 1:10 pm 
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Day 5066 a milestone
I got my insurance and my plates for my car, so now just need to put it back together.
I am still doing some block sanding but hopefully have it close enough by the end of the week to spray the primer/sealer / ( I am going to get it tinted to match my colour) hopefully it will not still have too many sanding marks but if so they may just stay untill the winter.
I am trying to get it mobile enough to go to the Bronte british car day coming up about 100 miles from home. It is going to be very tight for getting there as I keep getting shipped out for a week at a time . I had to work in Las Vegas all last week and the two weekends and Probably back there for another week very soon. I think I would need a top and air conditioning there as it was 108 for a couple of days and that was cool for this time of year they tell me.
BTW if your in ontario check out Zehr insurance
mine was $113.00 for a year


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PostPosted: August 23, 2017, 5:01 pm 
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John,
Thanks for the tips, I have been playing with the hvlp gun and trying to get the settings right to reduce orange peel. I do have the second one up and It seems to work well enough. I figure a few coats of primer will help with final finish and give me some more gun time.
Dale


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PostPosted: August 23, 2017, 8:37 pm 
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carguy123 wrote:
We need a save button or something like that so we can save these great write ups like this one.


Lacking said "save button", I took a screen shot, printed it out and put it in a folder that I have for really interesting posts! :D

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PostPosted: August 23, 2017, 10:55 pm 
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Hey Dale,

I would suggest looking into a paint called "Delfleet Essential". It's meant for commercial trucks. It's available in a single stage, goes on very easily, durable, and it's cheap enough you can respray as many times as needed to get a good job. I have almost an entire gallon of paint on my car as I was stupid enough to try a semi-gloss for my first paint job. If you go for a gloss paint with no metallic, I bet you will be able to get a job you are happy with. I was a little nervous to spray automotive paint, even put it off for a while because of it, but eventually I realized it's just paint. It's not rocket science, and can always be fixed. I was also lucky enough to get help from an experienced buddy who saved me a lot of learning (and some paint when my regulator failed. Get a good regulator!).

Cheers.

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PostPosted: August 25, 2017, 8:41 pm 
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Dale,

when you are next in Las Vegas we could meet up PM me.

i live in this heat, it's the pits

no i don't have air conditioning but i do have a soft top, i went to a car show just after i built the car and the first piece of shade was about 60 miles from home, it is a bridge over highway 93 that is there for wildlife to cross the road.

even under the bridge out of the sun it was still really hot.

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from this day to the end of the world.
but we in it shall be remembered.


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PostPosted: September 25, 2017, 12:14 am 
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Some slow progress- almost ready to paint
nose cone is the final colour.


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PostPosted: October 2, 2017, 7:26 am 
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That looks just amazing, Dale! Well done, Sir, well done!
:cheers:
JDK

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Quinn the Slotus:Ford 302 Powered, Mallock-Inspired, Tube Frame, Hillclimb Special
"Gonzo and friends: Last night must have been quite a night. Camelot moments, mechanical marvels, Rustoleum launches, flying squirrels, fru-fru tea cuppers, V8 envy, Ensure catch cans -- and it wasn't even a full moon." -- SeattleTom


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PostPosted: October 2, 2017, 3:07 pm 
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This is getting exciting...I can't wait to see it all in the final color.

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PostPosted: October 22, 2017, 7:40 pm 
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Have not done anything to finish the body but had to get it on the road before the snow. My brother took a couple of pics after my wife and I stopped by. Still lots to do and lots of engine tuning to be done but still fun at 7 lbs of boost, will be better at 17 to 22


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PostPosted: September 23, 2018, 12:29 am 
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Well its not done but I think its just about done for this year as I just want to drive it for the next few weeks until there is too much frost on the pavement.
I have not fully decided on the colour for the roll bar and maybe the windshield frame. I dont think I like the lighter blue on the windshield frame.
I was going to go with the dark blue on the roll hoops but my son has suggested satin nickle which I have some and it would work on the bumpers as well since the chrome has been cut and welded to shape the bumpers.. The nickle may look ok on the windshield frame as well.
The pics were just taken today and it needs all the rubber trim etc but its the first time out of the garage since my attempt at painting. Bodywork and paint are both mediocre at best but I was asked if it was a Morgon tonight when we were out. I took that as a compliment.


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PostPosted: September 23, 2018, 8:55 am 
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Wow! Dale, it looks just great! I recognize MGB tail lights and trunk, but the rest of of it could be a Bugatti or something from the 1930's "swoopy" designs. It's a beauty!

By all means, go for a drive, you have earned it!
:cheers:
JDK

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JD, father of Quinn, Son of a... Build Log
Quinn the Slotus:Ford 302 Powered, Mallock-Inspired, Tube Frame, Hillclimb Special
"Gonzo and friends: Last night must have been quite a night. Camelot moments, mechanical marvels, Rustoleum launches, flying squirrels, fru-fru tea cuppers, V8 envy, Ensure catch cans -- and it wasn't even a full moon." -- SeattleTom


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PostPosted: September 23, 2018, 11:11 am 
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Very unique and special. You've done well!
:cheers:

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