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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: June 16, 2017, 11:08 am 
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Joined: January 2, 2009, 1:45 pm
Posts: 1142
Location: Halifax, Nova Scotia
Dale, have you considered DIY vinyl wrap? It is not all that expensive, if you don't count the failures ....

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Isuzu Pickup/SR20DE, +401 COLD frame
Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=11601


Last edited by Warren Nethercote on June 16, 2017, 4:33 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: June 16, 2017, 12:57 pm 
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Joined: August 27, 2005, 1:04 am
Posts: 1275
Location: Kamloops, BC, Canada
I used oil based Tremclad rust paint from Canadian Tire for my locost. It's not the most durable paint and it chips easier than I'd like, but it's not too bad. Easy to spray, easy to touch up and fix mistakes, easy to clean, and the most toxic part of the job is lacquer thinner. I can't remember where I read about it, but I thinned it about 3:1 or 4:1 with lacquer thinner, then sprayed it with a cheap Princess Auto spray gun. Two pretty light coats, then one a bit heavier so that it levels out the surface. I let each coat flash off and get tacky before putting on the next one, and all three coats were in one day. Warmer conditions would have been nicer when I did mine, I waited a week to put the car together after painting and the paint was still very soft. I think it took a few months to really cure and harden up. Apparently using mineral spirits like Tremclad recommends makes it take way longer, sometimes over a year to fully cure the paint. Plus you have to wait a long time between coats with mineral spirits.

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This is 2 or 3 years after I painted it and freshly waxed. It's far from a show finish, but pretty good for the first time ever using a spray gun and no polishing or sanding after painting it. If I were doing it again I'd wet down the floor of my garage to keeps dust down though. I don't know how the paint would hold up in the sun, as my car stays in the garage when I'm not driving it. I used a rattle can self etch primer on all the aluminum panels and a rattle can sandable primer on the fiberglass.
Kristian

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PostPosted: June 16, 2017, 6:43 pm 
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Joined: September 22, 2005, 7:59 pm
Posts: 357
That looks pretty good, I may be willing to some hardener to help drying. Too bad lacquer is pretty much non existent any more. Even the oil based implement paints are gone.
Dale


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PostPosted: June 16, 2017, 8:33 pm 
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Joined: January 2, 2009, 1:45 pm
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Location: Halifax, Nova Scotia
I like Rustoleum/Tremclad too, but have also used International's Brightside polyurethane. It is a boat paint but a friend of mine painted his Birkin with it. viewtopic.php?f=33&t=12949

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Isuzu Pickup/SR20DE, +401 COLD frame
Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=11601


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PostPosted: June 18, 2017, 7:39 am 
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Joined: February 28, 2009, 11:09 pm
Posts: 1226
Location: Connersville, Indiana
Google Kirker Paints. Good quality paint at realistic prices and good color selection. Used a base coat/top coat paint on my Alpine with no problems and it is holding up well. Don't know about Canadian availability.

Bill


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PostPosted: June 19, 2017, 8:06 am 
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Joined: September 22, 2005, 7:59 pm
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Hi, it does not look like kirker is available in Canada. I still have a couple of weeks before it will be ready to spray.
Dale


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PostPosted: June 26, 2017, 8:15 am 
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Joined: September 22, 2005, 7:59 pm
Posts: 357
A little time with body filler.
first skim coats on fenders- and stripped the trunk down to bare metal to find a few high spots and dings ( it is 45 years old) , I did get the nose close enough to throw some primer on just to see what it would like down the road and for some insperation . Booked next week off work to try and get the whole thing smoothed down and primer coated so I can get an appraisal and insured.
Dale


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PostPosted: June 27, 2017, 4:41 am 
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Joined: March 30, 2011, 7:18 am
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Location: central Arkansas
Looking good! Not at all like the lumpy parts on Page 2...

My bodywork skills are definitely not up to your level.


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PostPosted: June 27, 2017, 8:29 am 
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Joined: September 22, 2005, 7:59 pm
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Getting rid of the lumpy is time consuming but less so than making a set of female molds and new parts. A quick coarse sanding brings it all down within a mm or so of flat.
Dale


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PostPosted: July 10, 2017, 12:45 am 
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Joined: September 22, 2005, 7:59 pm
Posts: 357
Took some vacation time and got some more bodywork done. I am definitely giving more respect to body men/body-women.
The unfinished side flaps on the hood I think I will remake in perforated metal to look better but also vent some heat from the turbo.


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PostPosted: July 10, 2017, 9:22 am 
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Joined: October 19, 2012, 9:25 pm
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Location: Summerville, SC
The side view gives off a distinct TR3 vibe to me.

Looks nice

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PostPosted: July 10, 2017, 6:12 pm 
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Joined: April 26, 2008, 6:06 pm
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Location: Under the weather. (Seattle)
It's great to see you still plugging away at this, Dale. I've always thought you had one of the best looking bodies around...I mean...All your hard work sculpting those curves is definitely paying off...I mean...On your car! :oops:

LOL...Seriously, lookin' good!! :cheers:



On the 'paint' front, I've strongly been considering Plasti-Dip.

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PostPosted: July 10, 2017, 9:08 pm 
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Joined: September 22, 2005, 7:59 pm
Posts: 357
Thanks, today is day 5023 on the build since i picked up the steel.
Dale


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PostPosted: August 10, 2017, 10:28 pm 
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Joined: September 22, 2005, 7:59 pm
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Day 5054,
Just had an appraiser over to get an "under restoration" appraisal so I can get the insurance started. Its still needs a lot of work but its getting there, needs the final glaze coat and a few bit done , then on to the install of lights etc.
I am going with a slightly lighter grabber blue.


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PostPosted: August 10, 2017, 11:27 pm 
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Joined: February 8, 2014, 10:47 pm
Posts: 427
Location: Cornholio OR "Where the magic happens"
Nice body! Morgan inspired?

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