LocostUSA.com

There are two references to the PA Code in two different topics on the subject.

I guess I was looking at newer or older version, because the definitions to the enitire section were at the begining and they were different.

Anyway, it looks like the emissions won't be an issue for either a motorcycle, a specially constructed vehicles Title 67, Sec. 177.101 (b):

http://www.pacode.com/secure/data/067/c ... pBtoc.html

Many States treat the two vehicle types very differently for emission, safety equipment requirements, and even what lane you may drive in based on single occupancy.

Crossed out a few items on the list the last 2 nights:

Pulled apart the fuel system and removed the gas tank. The hose in the tank pulled free of the foam and was sticking straight up (twisted the bulkhead fitting too much during initial install and tightening of the other hoses?). Short term it's fixed, need a better long term solution for keeping it on the bottom of the tank. The fuel cell foam is pretty cool by the way. definitly works to keep the fuel from sloshing around.

The problem of the engine falling on it's face once warmed up has gone away. Not sure if during diagnostics I ended up with a better connection on one of the sensors or it just needed some time running after 5 years to start running smoothly. Everything checked out in the diagnostics? Even started back up warm and went right to a smooth 1100 rpm idle. All's right with the world

Bleed the brakes, besides one bleeder being plugged it went pretty smoothly. Using a hand vacuum pump made it rediculously easy. Not sure why I didn't buy one before now!

Quite a bit more wiring to do (all the controls and displays are just kind of hanging off the side), and I need to pick up some chains, but getting real close to the first drive...

I suggest finding an application that uses more links but is still 530 (I assume) and definately o-ring. Good prices on ebay and listings are usually by the bike, but should indicate the number of links.

I also suggest buying a few drive sprockets with different tooth counts to play with the gearing, starting with a larger tooth count and the chain length minimized, then and working your way down, increasing the tension, then taking out links as necessary versus trying to "cut it longer" by adding a third master link. Rear sprocket changes cause a greater change in chain length and are not as effective as front sprocket changes for changing the ratio.

I'll likely switch to 530 chain in the future as 630 appears to be getting harder to find (fewer choices). The local shop told me I'm the first person in about a year to ask about 630 chain?? But for now I'm just sticking with the stock sprockets.

Well the good news is it moves under it's own power now that I have chains on it. The bad news is I can't shift into second. I think it's simply not enough shifter travel. I was really hoping to have the first drive around the block this week, but looks like that isn't going to happen. So the list for registration is down to:

fix shifter
finish wiring in aftermarket dash
fabricate fenders and mounts

The first drive around the block! For the most part I fixed the shifter but I am still having some chain tension issues between the engine and jackshaft. I'll need to figure out some sort of additional tensioner.

The drive was suprisingly smooth. A bit odd driving in such a reclined position inches off the ground but exciting!

Woohoo! It drives! Pretty cool, dude; that looks fun.

Well done !!

That's the nice thing about small cars and close to the ground. The sensation of speed is so much greater, so there is no need to go fast to get the thrill. The only thing is seeing and being seen. Paint it a bright color, as a loud exhaust won't help.

I can hear the chain problem in the video.

I didn't know what the chain size is. You can probably get the 630 sprockets and chain on ebay if you decide to make a change. Ignore what I said about industrial sprockets and multiple chains. For some reason, I thought you had a jack shaft setup, so a replacement chain would be too short.

Strong and long life - best chain!! www.montecdirect.com I use it on my kart.

JMR

Care to do a quick primer on chains? What the sizes mean what's the best or at least the variables?

Length issues, tensioners needed, etc?

Easiest is to do a google search.
Here is an example - 428 (that I use on the kart) first # (4) is pitch or distance between pins = 4/8's or .500". The 28 means 5/16" inner width.
530 is 5/8" pitch and 3/8" width and so on.
Chain also comes in different wear ratings and strengths. O'ring chains are wider overall and may have clearance issues to the transmission case but usually last much longer and run cooler.
My $ 0.02

JMR

Fixed the chain tension issues between the engine and jackshaft. Made a fixed tensioner using a skateboard wheel, still allowing some slop in the chain (about the same as rear chain). Worked like a charm! No chain skipping and was able to actually give it some gas. Pulls pretty strong but is definitly traction limited at lower speeds. May need to lower the rear tire pressure or get a stickier tire. Trying to behave in the neighborhood is difficult

Here is the video...

I went back through your build and couldn't find anything that detailed your jack shaft, other than you have one.

Tell us about the shaft and internal(?) bearings.

The jackshaft (jacktube would be a more accurate description) rides on internal roller bearings on the same shaft that the rear swing arm pivots on. It is sandwiched between the front arms of the swingarm. The gears on the jackshaft/tube are taper-lock ANSI sprockets turned down to motorcycle sprocket width and "locked" onto the outside of the shaft/tube. I'll try and get a picture but I believe there is a rendering somewhere in the buildlog (page 2) showing the basic setup of the rear swingarm/jackshaft.