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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: April 16, 2018, 8:20 am 
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Location: 4AGE in S.E. Michigan
Those panels looks good Chuck :cheers:
The one panel appears to have a nice rubber "U" seal around the edges. I'm looking for a thin rubber section that I can put on my hood to prevent scratching the nose cone and scuttle. Do you think that seal would work and who is the supplier?
Thanx DaveW


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PostPosted: April 16, 2018, 10:01 am 
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Thanks guys. It was rewarding to see the end result.

Dave, maybe the pics don't show it clearly. They both have that rubber seal. I got it at McMaster.com some years back. I can't remember the p/n that I used. I bought it to trim out the leading edge of the side panels of the Locost as well as the cutout in that panel for the header. It comes in various sizes, depending on the thickness of the material you are trying to work. Being rubber, it has no real retention capability. For you application I would suggest gluing it in place. Good luck!

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PostPosted: April 16, 2018, 2:41 pm 
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Hello Chuck - first thanks again for your reply today to my own page.
I've now spent a couple of hours enjoying your travails through the winter project... that has now taken three winters... hohoho... Most entertaining
ManPong


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PostPosted: April 17, 2018, 8:08 am 
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Thanks Chuck
I'll check out McMaster Carr.
DaveW


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PostPosted: April 17, 2018, 11:20 am 
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MangPong wrote:
Hello Chuck - first thanks again for your reply today to my own page.
I've now spent a couple of hours enjoying your travails through the winter project... that has now taken three winters... hohoho... Most entertaining
ManPong


Welcome to my little corner of the website. I have nothing to say about the "Winter" vs "3 Winter" deviation. Seems like normal project creep to me :mrgreen: I noticed you didn't mention the Locst build. That's when I noticed I lost the link in my Signature line. I just added it back in. (Thanks Hempy). If you thought the Cushman read was hours, sit down in a comfy chair, and prepare yourself for my Locost read. (now sold) :cheers: Stop back in every now and then!

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PostPosted: April 17, 2018, 10:24 pm 
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Hi rx7 - thanks for adding back the link - I had a feeling there must something more in your life than a Cushman...
I've read P.1, but have to stop for breakfast... Will look forward to this.
Back in my schooldays (about 1961...***!!!) I did a thesis on the Wankel - I've loved Mazuda ever since. I later had an MX3 - my all-time favourite car - owned, that is... My real favourite would be a Maserati...
Do you mean you've sold the car... or the book-rights to this build thread...? lol.
Regards, MangPong...


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PostPosted: April 27, 2018, 7:40 pm 
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Progress! I mounted the front access panels. Painted the fenders black. Figured out how these things are supposed to fit together, Mounted the bed and fenders, Rebuilt the battery holder and mounted it and the fuel tank to the bed in OEM configuration. It is now a self propelled Cushman (again), Linda helped choose the fender color. I think it looks real police-like with the black and white.

Next up is to clean up the garage. The bed cover needs some repair. The I'll paint it, the tailgate and a few small items.

The cab is not planned to be restored at this time.


Attachments:
rt side.JPG
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front.JPG
front.JPG [ 43.87 KiB | Viewed 919 times ]
drivers side.JPG
drivers side.JPG [ 65.4 KiB | Viewed 919 times ]
back.JPG
back.JPG [ 49.66 KiB | Viewed 919 times ]

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PostPosted: April 27, 2018, 9:48 pm 
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That cab is screaming to be chopped and channeled!!!!!!

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PostPosted: May 28, 2018, 9:25 am 
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rx7locost wrote:
Since we all like pictures. Here are some of the Signal Stat 900 during the cleanup. On a 2nd note, my idea of getting g the indicators working worked. Instead of getting a signal from the old flasher, It now has a pair of diodes added internally soldered to the wires that also went to the front lights. Then the common point feed the indicator light. Simple and elegant. These photos are from before the diode modification.


Hi Chuck, I don't understand what you did exactly. Were these leds to replace the bulbs?

If you have to get into the back side of the gauges again, it might be easier to fit a gauge face plate, probably 3 x 6 x .050 with 1/2 x #8 pan head screws at the corners.

What is it like to drive?

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PostPosted: May 28, 2018, 11:05 am 
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Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F wrote:
rx7locost wrote:
Since we all like pictures. Here are some of the Signal Stat 900 during the cleanup. On a 2nd note, my idea of getting g the indicators working worked. Instead of getting a signal from the old flasher, It now has a pair of diodes added internally soldered to the wires that also went to the front lights. Then the common point feed the indicator light. Simple and elegant. These photos are from before the diode modification.


Hi Chuck, I don't understand what you did exactly. Were these leds to replace the bulbs?

If you have to get into the back side of the gauges again, it might be easier to fit a gauge face plate, probably 3 x 6 x .050 with 1/2 x #8 pan head screws at the corners.

What is it like to drive?


MV8 Thanks for stopping by.

No LED's used in the conversion. I used simple 1N400x diodes. The reason for doing so was, IIRC, due to the available flasher units at my local auto store. The one I chose didn't have a flasher light terminal. The Signal Stat has a single, internal incandescent indicator light. That hasn't changed. It originally used a wire in the harness that took that signal and sent it to the indicator light. I cut that off, then internally, then Or'd both the LH and RH signal outputs thru the diodes to that internal indicator. Now the indicator flashes with LH signal, RH signal and the 4-ways.

Good idea on the gauge panel.

I still am not titled licensed yet. This is a long term project. :ack: However, driving around the neighborhood, it is real different from either a car or a motorcycle. I feel a lot more vulnerable in the Cushman. you aren't really holding on in turns like on a bike. Sitting upright, not being able to hold on to handlebars or with your legs like on a bike, the way it leans in the corners makes one feel like you are about to fall out. And maybe I am. It is just a real different feeling. The top speed is 38 or 39 MPH (governed). It will do a u turn in an amazing short space, less than in my 18ft wide drive. 3 on the tree with no sync in 1st makes shifting a bit slow. That's OK. 1st gear's gearing is basically useless. Maybe if I had 1,000 lbs of dirt in the back 1st gear there would be a real need for 1st.


My cousin's BF said that back in the day, they used the Trucksters as maintenance vehicles on the golf course he worked at. He said that the John Deere Gator simply killed that market for the Cushman. The weight carrying capacity was lower, but at 1/3 to 1/4 the cost, and having the stability of 4 wheels, the Cushman was just not competitive.

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“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my active Cushman Truckster resurrection log: over HERE
or my archival Locost build log: over HERE


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PostPosted: May 28, 2018, 5:54 pm 
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I wasn't going to ask about the registration. I know how difficult it can be even when you have them by any regs they wish to use.

Some interesting links I found (Dejavu?!):

https://blog.bikersden.com/biker-lifest ... n-project/

http://www.hobbytech.com/trucksters.htm

I found a pic of an Atlanta police version of mine from the 90s.


Attachments:
ATL PD GO4.JPG
ATL PD GO4.JPG [ 64.44 KiB | Viewed 744 times ]

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PostPosted: June 10, 2018, 9:07 pm 
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Progress is slow moving, but moving none the less.

After getting the bed put on, I focused on getting the tailgate prepped for paint. That was done, um..... some time ago. :roll:

Before painting, I decided to get the bed cover restored. That took some glasswork, then some body filler. then some sanding and more filler. Rinse. Repeat. Then came last week, I prepped the metal mounting rails and painted them. Then painted the inside of the cover ( using some leftover deck primer/paint :ack: ) to brighten things up inside. When all that was complete, I got out the spray gun and shot the remaining pieces.
Attachment:
Tailgate.JPG
Tailgate.JPG [ 53.48 KiB | Viewed 662 times ]
Attachment:
bed cover.JPG
bed cover.JPG [ 40.81 KiB | Viewed 662 times ]


I went back and forth about what material to use and how I would install the bed flooring. Pretty was not necessarily the goal as it will be hidden from view by the bed cover. I finally decided to try Stranded Bamboo Flooring. It is supposed to be harder than oak. Unlike oak, cherry, etc flooring, this stuff is supposed to be rated for below-grade installation, although some places say that is a no-no. I take that as being possibly more moisture resistant than those hardwoods. But who really knows? I can't find anyone who has done anything similar. I guess I'll be the test guinea pig. It is tongue and groove planks, not a snap together flooring. The planks are less than the bed length so I'll have to stagger them. Not shown is that the stagger joints will be over the frame to help strengthen the horizontal joints. I plan on gluing the T&G joints to form one big panel, then placing it in a bed of adhesive applied to the framework of the pickup bed. I'll then caulking the 3 edges. It may, or may not work out. Won't know unless I try.


I have to figure out an easy way to make a cover to access the battery.
Attachment:
bamboo bed.JPG
bamboo bed.JPG [ 46.25 KiB | Viewed 662 times ]

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PostPosted: June 12, 2018, 5:52 pm 
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Now the boards are cut and glued together. End-joints are over frame members. In the right rear corner is a removable panel which will allow access to the battery. Currently, everything is just resting in place.

The Bamboo planks are made up of 3 individual layers of split bamboo, glued and pressed together. The top wood-grain pattern appears to be printed on, similar to Pergo flooring is. Then coated with some sort of varnish, possibly an alumina filled like prefinished hardwood flooring. If previous installations of Pergo floors is any indication, it should hold up pretty well over time. Of course, water and humidity may change all that. At least it will be covered, away from any UV damage.

I think it looks pretty good. Too bad it swill be out of sight. :mrgreen:


Attachments:
bed.JPG
bed.JPG [ 42.83 KiB | Viewed 617 times ]

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Visit my active Cushman Truckster resurrection log: over HERE
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PostPosted: June 12, 2018, 7:56 pm 
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Looks nice. Fairly lightweight too? What kind of adhesive?

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PostPosted: June 12, 2018, 9:20 pm 
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Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F wrote:
Looks nice. Fairly lightweight too? What kind of adhesive?


I don't know..... I had to check. It turns out to be right at 2lb per sq. ft. (I measured 11.3 oz for a sample 50 sq in)

I used waterproof interior/exterior wood glue (not just waterresistant) in the T&G joints to glue the boards together. For bedding them to the steel frame......I don't know yet. I'll probably go to my old standby of landscaping adhesive. It is really waterproof. It is available locally at a relatively low cost. But I could be swayed. Any recommendation?

I plan on caulking around the 3 sides to limit condensation from running down the sides and underneath the platform.

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“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my active Cushman Truckster resurrection log: over HERE
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