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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: November 7, 2018, 9:47 am 
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Yup. What waltj said! I forgot to mention that. So many choices out there. Good luck deciding.

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PostPosted: November 7, 2018, 7:43 pm 
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all i can say is watch the scrub radius if using front uprights from a car with power steering on a non power steering setup.

very interesting, and plenty of access around the engine with a one piece hood.

how is ground clearance on the pan?

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PostPosted: November 7, 2018, 8:19 pm 
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Chuck and Walt, thanks for the tips. I'k leaning toward the cheapest dc to get my feet wet or this Alpha 200 that seems to have everything I might need for aluminum: https://www.ahpwelds.com/product/ahp-al ... er-19-2018

John, thanks. The ground clearance to the bottom of the pan is about 4 inches with the pan about 1.5 inches below the bottom of the frame. The scrub is a fraction of an inch on paper, but we'll see how that turns out.

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PostPosted: November 7, 2018, 11:08 pm 
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And then there is a cart, gloves, arc welding rods, various tungsten electrodes, steel, stainless, and aluminum filler rods of various sizes, the new tank for Argon. spare gas shrouds etc, and etc, and etc...….

Why buy a DC only capable welder if you think you will end up with wanting to do Aluminum. You'll just be buying twice and waste that initial money IMO, At least that is the thought process I went thru.....

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PostPosted: November 8, 2018, 11:04 am 
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You're right. I fought my frugality and ordered it. I have most of the consumables already with my mig, stick, and gas welders.

I have a lot of sheet metal work to do. Want to try converting an efi intake to carbs that will fit under the spit hood line so I can use aluminum fwd heads. Carbs maybe progressive, side draught webers, or bike cv carbs.

This sold me: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AicYjxOdI6A

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PostPosted: November 8, 2018, 12:53 pm 
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Congrats! I am frugal too. I had a hard time justifying the purchase but decided WTH. I don't need to justify everything! I'm sure you will learn to love it. I don't know what the difference is between the AlphaTIG 200X that I have and the 201XD they are now offering. They look to be the same and I can't find any feature comparisons between them. Mine doesn't do the slow, repetitive pulse that welder in your video shows. The AlphaTIG pulses, but too fast to notice. I think it helps to clean the aluminum better during welding. Don't quote me on that.

Last year, I made a small jewelry box. With my MIG, I would normally fold the corners with the inside edges touching leaving a 90 degree "V" and use the MIG to fill the "V". With the TIG, I found that I could overlap one side where the inside edge of that side would line up with the outside edge of the other. Then just TIG with no filler. No clean up grinding was needed. I was amazed.


Fab techniques between MIG and TIG can be different.

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PostPosted: November 11, 2018, 9:23 am 
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Cleaned the mustang calipers in washing powders, some wire brush followed by blasting, alumi prep 33, alodine 1001, heat gun dry before rad caliper paint.

Does anybody know the thread size for the triumph clutch master?

My $24 each brembos, $14 exedy spit clutch master, $20 cavalier master, $20 aluminum twin piston caliper in need of a bit more blasting, jeep tie rod as ubj with jamb nuts sourced from speedway.


A few interesting pics I've found...


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PostPosted: November 17, 2018, 5:12 pm 
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Got a bit more done. Rebuilt the calipers after blasting, painting, and baking. Silicone spray works great when reinstalling the phenolic pistons, which are not clean yet in the pic.

My 3/8-10mm banjos fit the mustang banjo bolts fine but I still need to anneal the sealing washers.

The 18 inch an3 lines appear to be just right. Using the speedway 4 tab kit to secure the 3/8-24 to an3 adapters.

The triumph clutch master is 3/8-24. Converted it to banjo also along with the s10 slave cyl.

Drilled and tapped the ubj adjuster sleeve and the ubj bracket is mostly done except for steering. I may add a wed across the center and wrap the end. You can see the caster offset in the lbj boss.
Getting close to working on the control arms.

Still waiting on my tig. Ordered gloves, 1/16 lanthanated tungsten, and a silica sleeve finger guard (I forget what they are called).


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PostPosted: November 18, 2018, 11:02 am 
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Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F wrote:
I’ve got a lot of options for the front shocks and I’d already order some if I were just replacing the originals, but I may want a shorter version than stock, which only compress to 10 inches from 13.5 fully extended. I’ll be adapting (no welding) a $45 coilover kit for a civic to a $20 a piece KYB shock for a common application along with a self-lubricating $10 spherical insert to replace the bushing. I expect to clean and reuse the original springs since the lower kit springs are likely too stiff and short to stay on the seats. The original springs are 2.65” id, 12.75” free length, 9.5” at ride height, 0.425” thick. Compared to my other springs, they appear to have a rate of 250 lb/in.


Found the lowering kit I bought two years ago for this. The springs front to back are QA1 350 (.505" wire), kit spring (.480"), spitfire spring (.425"), and QA1 200 (.415"). I just wanted the adjustable seats which should work fine, though there are billet adjuster sleeves on ebay now that are about the same price but for two and no springs (all I needed). I will probably drop the stock lower seat (which just slips on) an inch or two to install a 10.5 inch, 300 spring without trimming shorter. The stock seat does not accept a 2.5 id spring without welding around the inside shoulder on the bottom so you can turn the outside down about .070 to fit. None of these springs are smaller in od except for the lower rate QA1 200.

I'm sure somebody would like to see how the kit fits as-is on a standard spitfire shock. Didn't have the upper seat in-hand but you get the idea.

I'm using 5 180 mandrel bends in 2 inch for the exhaust. I've decided to run duals under the frame back to the diff where there is room for mufflers that have a case of around 15x4.25, similar to the buick powdered spit but with the mufflers tucked up. I'm leaning toward a Walker soundfx 18247 for the lincoln mark vii 5.0l ho application at $35each from Summit. 2 inch in but 1.75 out should work well for this little six. Don't want it to be too loud.


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