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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: December 6, 2018, 3:12 pm 
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Will you be using the stock suspensions / rear axle? A narrow 7.5 isn't hard to do. Should be strong enough for the V6.
A pair of custom length axle shafts from Moser, drilled for your bolt pattern, runs $295.00.
http://www.moserengineering.com/C28CST-Custom-Length-C-Clip-28-Spline-AxleS.item.
Stock 10" drums redrilled for the MGB 4 x 4.5 bolt pattern should fit inside most "B" wheels.
Ron

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PostPosted: December 6, 2018, 9:08 pm 
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The S10 axle is 54.25" between WMS for 1983-2004 Chevy S10 2WD, GMC S15 2WD.
49.875" between backing plate flanges.

drivers side width - 25.375
pass side width - 24.5

82-88 (with exceptions) 26 splines
88 + have 28 splines

Ratios between 2.73 to 4.10.

Having said that... if you want one with disks then you'll need one from a 98 or so Blazer (I never found one). IF you one want with Posi, good luck as that is equally rare. So count on getting one of those later 7.5" S10 axles (I paid $50) and putting in your own posi and converting it to disk brakes.

The Camaro versions are much wider, as are the Jimmy axles... 4" as I recall...

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PostPosted: December 7, 2018, 9:34 am 
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Only about 3% of the 2WD, S-10's had a LSD. If at a pick & pull look for the high output motor in the S-10. [individual intake runner manifold] Also there should be a sticker on the back side of the glove box, which will indicate the options including the LSD.
DaveW


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PostPosted: December 7, 2018, 6:57 pm 
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The truck "LSD" is usually a gov-lock which is not the same as a sports car LSD (clutch or Torsen) When one wheel spins a LOT faster than the other, you get a big clunk, then the diff locks 100%. It unlocks once the wheel speeds are re-equalized. Good for snow, ice, mud, but not sports cars. Can usually get a Camaro torson for $100-$200 on eBay -->then install in the S10 rear


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PostPosted: December 7, 2018, 7:24 pm 
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http://www.britishv8.org/articles/2007-techsession6.htm

I think Chuck will be happy with the diff he has as long as the area under the bump stops on the housing is not too badly corroded. May want to change the fiber thrust washers on the side gears too.

If not, the postal jeep dana 44 is the right width and usually comes in 3.07 or 3.73 (different offset carriers). If you want any dims, let me know.


Attachments:
10022016 004sm.jpg
10022016 004sm.jpg [ 142.25 KiB | Viewed 529 times ]

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PostPosted: December 8, 2018, 11:09 am 
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Ha, using parts from a postal carrier Jeep. That would be totally Locost. To bad they have auto transmissions or you could get a donor for about $50. Gotta love it.

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

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PostPosted: December 9, 2018, 3:07 pm 
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STranger 7, Originally I had planned an IRS from a Miata. I'm not too interested in nailing down the project at the moment. I am looking at options obver the next year. Body rustoration is 1st on the list. Perhaps something else will float-my-boat when the time for deciding is closer.


Geek, I haven't measured this yet. Internet search says the MGB diff is 51.75" from wheel mtg face to wheel mtg face.

MV8, Thanks for the link. As usual you have some good info. If I decide to narrow, 54.25-51.75= 2.5. Divide that by 2 = 1.25" I wonder if the S10 axle is such that there is enough spline to get away with just cutting 3/4" of it off either end of the axle and calling it done?


Edit: I just looked up the S10 axle. No chance that that idea would work. And the cast area of the axle is too large for cut/sleeve splicing like I did on my Locost.

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PostPosted: December 9, 2018, 4:15 pm 
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They use C-clips at the side gears to retain the axle so unless you eliminate the clips, new grooves would be needed. Also found this after posting about the jeep axle: http://www.britishv8.org/articles/Dana44Axle.htm

I have a bronco 2 if you need dims on that also. They typically have 3.73 7.5 with a traction loc diff, 5x4.5bc, and a long/short side, though shortening the long side to short side dims may center the diff case but may still be a inch or so wider than you want.

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PostPosted: December 10, 2018, 9:43 am 
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You might want to look at the early Celica/Supra rear axles.
DaveW


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PostPosted: December 10, 2018, 12:38 pm 
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rx7locost,
A lot of the GM V6 conversions on the http://www.britishv8.org/Photos-MG-Conversions.htm
site keep the stock rear axle and front suspension. I favor limited slip. My 1967 MGB GT will have a cut down Ford 8.8. Even using rt side 28 spline 1984 Ranger axles ( 3" shorter than stock Mustang ) I'll still have to flare the fenders. The wheel/tire combination I want won't fit in the stock wheel wells anyway.
Maybe I should start my own log and detail the process there.

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PostPosted: December 10, 2018, 2:53 pm 
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STranger 7 wrote:
rx7locost,
My 1967 MGB GT will have a cut down Ford 8.8. Even using rt side 28 spline 1984 Ranger axles ( 3" shorter than stock Mustang ) I'll still have to flare the fenders. The wheel/tire combination I want won't fit in the stock wheel wells anyway.
Maybe I should start my own log and detail the process there.


What would it cost to do it the right way w/ a rear end being fab'd to the correct width?

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Hayes front, S10 +2 rear, Lalo body.
Girlfriend thinks I'm nuts for building this....


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PostPosted: December 10, 2018, 4:58 pm 
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geek49203,
Started a build log. I'll answer there.

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PostPosted: December 14, 2018, 9:51 am 
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Chuck,
Lots more sheet metal here.https://mgbhive.co.uk/product-category/mgb/mgb-mechanical/mgb-body-panels/?wpcopage=1&showall=1
If you're interested in a 1967 style dash, just the dash w/o switches or gauges,
let me know.
Attachment:
GTRR,007.jpg
GTRR,007.jpg [ 92.12 KiB | Viewed 325 times ]

Ron

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PostPosted: December 24, 2018, 3:01 pm 
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Chuck, I think you asked about removing a small amount from a 7.5 axle to narrow it.

I was looking for shortened full size vans on youtube and this video popped up:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MN7B_D_CyEs

You can see the c clip groove on the end also.

So your options are either two short side axles or shortening the long side to be shorter than the short side.

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PostPosted: January 9, 2019, 10:55 am 
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Ron, while I really like the steel dash look and had thought long and hard about making that upgrade (downgrade?), my plan is currently to rework the steel that resides under the foam in some form. I have seen some other's examples of this mod and think it may be the easier method. Here is one example I liekd at the Chicago Brit Car meet last Sept. All it needs is a glove box, IMO. Thanks for thinking of me.
Attachment:
pillow dash mod.JPG
pillow dash mod.JPG [ 113.62 KiB | Viewed 71 times ]


And all the talk about what the drivetrain might, or not be, is a bit premature at this point. I’ll have plenty of time to sort that out.

The holiday seasons are now behind us. The Christmas decorations are down and stored away. It is time to spend a little time in the garage on this project after looking at it for the last few months. It won’t restore itself. So yesterday I was arranging space in the garage, making room for some new tools and just generally doing a bit of cleanup, which is a never ending chore in my garage. I decided to at least do a couple of small tasks on the MGB. A little progress is better than no progress. I decided to remove the windshield wipers. That should be a simple task right? The driver’s side was straight forward and came off in a matter of seconds. Then I went to the passenger side. That is where things turned south, ahem, a b-e-a-t-c-h. It turned out the some DPO along the way couldn’t get the wiper to stay on the shaft, so he/she (FYI, I’ll use the male version in any future referrals to the DPO even though I don’t know the gender of the particular DPO) decided that JB-Weld would be an acceptable repair by epoxying the arn to the shaft. WTH? It took a cutoff tool to the arm to remove it from the shaft! I should have suspected such Rube Goldberg engineering from the unique way that the wiper blades were attached to the arms.
Attachment:
JB.JPG
JB.JPG [ 82.59 KiB | Viewed 71 times ]
Attachment:
Wiper wrap.JPG
Wiper wrap.JPG [ 61.31 KiB | Viewed 71 times ]


That task being accomplished. I cut the hardened windshield rubber to remove the bright trim without any damage. Then cut the windshield out. The windshield was clouded and will be replaced. Which is good because it slid off the hood, or do you prefer bonnet? When it struck the floor, it broke. That settled the question as to how to dispose of it. Right now it is wrapped up and sitting in the trash at the end of the driveway awaiting today’s collection. The gasket was removed, and what a surprise I found there. The lower frame corners on GT’s in the Midwest typically collect water and rust away. This example survived very well. No metal work will be required in that area. Yay!


Attachments:
WS corner.JPG
WS corner.JPG [ 79.62 KiB | Viewed 71 times ]

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“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my active Cushman Truckster resurrection log: over HERE
or my archival Locost build log: over HERE
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