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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: February 11, 2019, 8:21 am 
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50-200in lbs for small hardware. [SNIP]
0-30 torque meter. [SNIP]
total preload of 15 inch lbs. [SNIP]
more than 30 inch lbs
Shoot, I just tell Bubba to use two fingers, or three, or his whole hand... :mrgreen:

:cheers:
JDK

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Quinn the Slotus:Ford 302 Powered, Mallock-Inspired, Tube Frame, Hillclimb Special
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PostPosted: February 21, 2019, 12:34 pm 
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GonzoRacer wrote:
Quote:
50-200in lbs for small hardware. [SNIP]
0-30 torque meter. [SNIP]
total preload of 15 inch lbs. [SNIP]
more than 30 inch lbs
Shoot, I just tell Bubba to use two fingers, or three, or his whole hand... :mrgreen:

:cheers:
JDK


Haha.. my mits arent that well calibrated. For fear of breaking things, I tend to undertighten, torque wrench needed for this guy. 

Did I say I was going to get reverse going this week? Soon as I did, wifey gets sick, and we have a snow day and the kids are home.. 

I did manage a few small bits. Made a bridge to move a brake line away from the flywheel. For some reason a critical line next to a rotating mass didnt sit well. 

Been torquing down bolts at the rear end. Got the pinion flange back in the diff with the proper pre load and smooth breakaway torque. I un crushed the collar by placing it over a pipe and taping it out with a hammer.. i know, kinda crude, but it gave me the illusion it worked.... worse case, I take it all apart and replace the gears with 3.42s and a proper rebuild.

Added a threaded bung for another fan switch.. this is located on the coolant manifold on the top of the engine. Cleaned it out with a wire brush on an extention. I rarely use these, got them at the yardstore in 2009.. got the manifold painted up today both inside and out. You can see by the crud that came out and why paint was needed. Ideally it would be plated .. or made from aluminum.

And finally, my shelves and drawers showed up.. some shipping damage to a back panel. That is being addressed. Managed to get all my tools, paint, auto fluids and lubes in. Requires a steplader to access all levels. Drawers are cavernous and can take 400 lbs per drawer.. for some reason, my shop and tool crib is much tidyer, most likely attributed to wanting to open and close drawers now. My old craftsman box sold in 2 hr on kijiji. Planning to add more of this rousseau stuff.. check them out if you live in canada.. made in quebec and right up there with lista, vidmar etc. Although expensive, way less than the other brands... most likely due to not importing from the states.. I bought right before the steel tarrifs were implemented aswell.

Heres some pics.


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PostPosted: February 22, 2019, 7:23 pm 
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I thought a new crush sleeve was a done-deal based on your post or I would have suggested that but also heating to anneal since the crush and the straightening tend to harden the sleeve but I've done that with Ford sleeves a few times and had no issues with loosening coupler flanges.

Steel coolant tubes work fine when the coolant ratio is maintained and changed every few years. Paint can soften, separate, and clog a radiator tube or head gasket hole.

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PostPosted: March 5, 2019, 9:14 am 
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MV8.

Thanks for the input, ill consider the steel coolant tubes "temporary" and replace with aluminum after road legal status. Hammering out the crush sleeve was the last step before going to a new crush sleeve. I was hoping youd chime in and say that was ok.

Otherwise, posting from the honda dealership as they fix the disintegrating shift lock out button. Wifeys car takes priority...
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Sick kids, snow days... etc... same story for the last 5 years.. this project is a 3 way battle of time, place and money.. time is the hold up now, but aleast im not weather dependant on mold making etc.

remaining projects winshield and seat... its all little stuff im doing now. Reverse gear relay panel is done. Basically the clutch must be depressed and the car in neutral before power can be applied to the reverse gear contacter. Inadvertant engagement of the starter is nfg, as is not being able to disconnect. Multiple safeties here. Maybe overkill, but seems like a normal amount of airplane grade redundancies.
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Nuts and bolts

You know me.. ocd about materials, chemistries and fastening technology. Most of all the critical hardware is AN and some NAS. AN bolts fit between grade 5 and grade 8 in terms of tensile strength at 125,000 psi ultimate strength. However, tolerance, plating, UNJF threads (larger root radius), and joint design make them ideal for our projects vs grade 8 hardware.. carroll smith thinks so too. Of course a poor hole, joint, or improperly torqued fastener, and it all means nothing..

On to torqueing. I went from 1 to 5 torque wrenches in the last month...I went on an ebay bender.. some locations required special tools for access, and not wanting to torque the head of the bolt in a press fit hole. Ok, maybe excessive.. so i made a few torque adapters from princess auto sockets and wrenches. Of course snap on and proto make these, but the bill would have been steep.. welded up with 309 filler..

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I like to keep a stock of hardware. I replace nuts and bolts all the time on my turf equipment with an or gr8 stuff frequently.. namely slice seeder baldes. Having stock keeps the money show rolling during the season. Stock got low and I put in an order with aircraft spruce. Torqueseal was in the mix.
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It doesnt seal anything, but rather indicates when a fastener has loosened.. also a good way of telling yourself, "yes, you did tighten that". Provided you did tighten it.
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Thats all for now..

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PostPosted: March 5, 2019, 9:23 am 
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My grandmother kept having issue with a similar shifter button found on 80s ford pickups. We found that instead of pressing and releasing the button, she would press the button then slide her thumb off of it to let it "pop" out. Eventually it let go. Replace the switch a few times before we found out the cause.

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PostPosted: March 21, 2019, 5:08 pm 
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MV8... I couldnt convince my wife to just "stick your finger in there" every time you want to get in/out of park.. honda replaced the next day. Had to give up some shop time..

Reverse. It works as expected, I wont be expecting it to perform well up hill. The piont is to pass inspection. I need anothet 40 amp breaker in parrallel as the single 40amp, opens after a few seconds. Need to clean up the rear wiring.

Heres a vid. https://youtu.be/pOUC_i-YEVM

And.. while testing reverse and maneuvering, I manage to send the car into an imoveable object to get a run over a large ice mound leading into the garage. BANG. splitter mount is bent in almost all critical locations. Yep, some humble pie was eaten. I should have pushed it in.

Some I am posting while the fix is in progress. This one is better and should be able to integrate the bumper and tow hook into it more easily. Not as rigid by itself, but the sum should be greater here.

On the business and home front: My pesticide applicators license expired this year, so studying and writing those exams were priorities. Also wrote the the structural pest control exam to open a new revenue stream. Almost ready to file taxes, then onto quoting for the turf season. I have a commitment to not drive as much as I did last year for business. The time can never be replaced.

Shop update. Had an opportunity to move some tooling along in february, Instead of buying more inventory with the proceeds, I decided to complete tool crib storage I planned out. The pallet showed up tuesday, the entire day was dedicated to get reconfigured and set up..

Pics to follow.

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Last edited by airframefixer on March 21, 2019, 5:28 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: March 21, 2019, 5:20 pm 
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Pics


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PostPosted: March 26, 2019, 3:29 pm 
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Andrew, Andrew, Andrew, you manage you manage to move tons of expensive aluminum around with powerful engines and you prang the car at 1 mph in your driveway. :roll:

OK, keep your eye on the prize. On the road for sure this summer. :D

Ron

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PostPosted: March 29, 2019, 12:08 pm 
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sevenesqueron wrote:
Andrew, Andrew, Andrew, you manage you manage to move tons of expensive aluminum around with powerful engines and you prang the car at 1 mph in your driveway. :roll:

OK, keep your eye on the prize. On the road for sure this summer. :D

Ron


Yep, I sure did.. lets call it a slow speed impact test. Hey gotta break things to learn! Working towards that goal.

Speaking of.. new splitter mount done, made a double auto reset breaker mount that doubles as a distribution bus.. this is required for reverse as the 40amp trips too soon. Its now 80amp, maybe 50-60 amps may be best as I do want it to trip after a few seconds of use.

Speed sensor magnet is mounted, the sensor braket will bolt to where the heat shield affixes to the upright.

Some fab pics.. ran out of 10/32 locknuts, so using nutplates when posible... using knipex plier wrench to squeeze rivets... relocated external power plug to firewall, this is where the charger plugs in, or aux batt.

Baby steps..


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PostPosted: April 8, 2019, 10:54 am 
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Hello Fellers.


Taxes done, and a postive return!! Woo.. Now on to quoting for the business!


Car. Many small jobs being tackled including carb mods, wiring, speed sensor bracket. Nothing much to see for work, but I have been busy. 


The FZ1 from the factory runs notoriously lean in low power settings, and pig rich are larger throttle openings. Im basically copying the perscribed fix from the bike world. I have been driving my car, up and down the driveway, (and also into things) to troubleshoot some fueling issues. 


Surging, and stumbling, hard starting and a pronounced 4000 rpm buzz were present with the carb settings. Mind you thats how it came off the bike. My exhaust most likely threw everything off. 


Mods. First.. remove the pilot circuit brass plugs and richen circuit to 5 turns out. They were already drilled out, and at 3 turns. 


Adjust float height to 14mm. This affects overnight flooding issues apparently.


Replace high speed jets from 132.5 to 122.5. Fixes high speed richness. Previous owner has 124s installed. 


Shim needles to spec. Wont get into it, but the previous owner had a jet kit installed with aftermarket needles. Oem ones have no adjustment these aftermarket ones have 6 grooves. Made sure the needles were at the correct height. 


And lastly, cut the slide springs 1/2 inch, and drill out slide vent holes. This is a common fix for lazy throttle response. Also replaced the K&N filter with an OEM yamaha filter. These carbs can be sensitive to filter changes.. wanted to keep the variables low. 


Did a few test runs up the driveway, which is 120 ft long.


The results: explosive acceleration. At steady 2000rpm, tires break loose with full throttle application.. scary quick!!


Starts, runs, and accelerates very smooth throughout the rpm band. Long black tire marks on the drive way.

Many small items have been checked off the list.

Andrew


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PostPosted: June 7, 2019, 4:49 pm 
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So.. tailight converters are sensitive to lamp type, ie, LED vs incandescent. The first one was cheap, like 10$, but it didn't work. found an LED compatible one on Amazon, so tried it out and it works as it should now. Got some wiring cleaned up and secured on the back end. Also made an additional body mount which is necessary as the center section isn't stiff enough for the weight it is. Rear body work wiring harness is done.

Managed to break a mirror so ordered new gsxr mirrors for 28.00.. I'm getting locost now btw as I want this thing done and have bigger registration bills to pay.

Anyways here's some pics.. first, the kids love the car, climbing on it and pushing buttons etc.. and so much so that nacho(dog) thought he would join in..

I have no luck with deliveries btw.. that's a 1000L tote of liquid fertilizer that went for a ride off the tailgate. Whats going to happen when I acquire a lathe and a mill?

Busy with lawn care and flying these days, but have some evenings to snag some shop time.

Andrew


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PostPosted: June 11, 2019, 2:30 pm 
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Looks great. :cheers:

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