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PostPosted: July 23, 2019, 8:01 am 
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Location: Tallahassee, FL (The Center of the Known Universe)
Ya know, those vents down the hood of that mower would look waaaa-aaaay cool set into the curved side of a Se7en hood... Just sayin... :mrgreen:

:cheers:
JD "Where's My Sawzall" Kemp

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Quinn the Slotus:Ford 302 Powered, Mallock-Inspired, Tube Frame, Hillclimb Special
"Gonzo and friends: Last night must have been quite a night. Camelot moments, mechanical marvels, Rustoleum launches, flying squirrels, fru-fru tea cuppers, V8 envy, Ensure catch cans -- and it wasn't even a full moon." -- SeattleTom


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PostPosted: July 23, 2019, 8:29 am 
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Chuck, ya can't escape mowers.

When you figure out how to defeat the 'reverse button' could you post about it? The seat switch is a PITA, because it is based on bum pressure rather than overall seat load, so you can't defeat that safety switch by pushing down on the seat back when pushing the mower after getting stuck on rough ground.

Fellow John Deere owner .... (about 250 hours on mine so far)

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Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=11601


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PostPosted: July 23, 2019, 8:37 am 
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Location: 4AGE in S.E. Michigan
The John Deer safety switches are a PIA. I bet I had to trouble shot those switches 10 times in 7 or 8 years. I finally removed ALL the switches. After removing the safety switches, the ignition system must have received full voltage, because the engine actually ran better!! The very first day I had to dis-able the seat switch. My lawn is not as smooth as a golf course, every bump or sloped surface would cut out the engine. I bet the lawyer that demanded the switches does not mow his own lawn. No major problems, after 14yrs. Just the deck bearings and they are only a buck each on flea-bay and original battery only lasted 11yrs :shock: Davew


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PostPosted: July 23, 2019, 10:53 am 
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Larry, Thanks. So far I am impressed with the cut quality. Better than my Cub Cadet. I still have to determine the right cut height and set the anti-scalping wheels. OOPS!

JD. You come anywhere near my Deere with a sawzall and there will be repercussions, trust me. :boxing:

Warren, the rev button is easy. Just pull the switch and short the wires in the harness. Simple as that. See the pic. I haven't looked into it yet. Is the seat pressure switch analog? Or can you simply push down in the center of the seat. I do see that the wiring connector has more than 2 wires. Haven't looked into it any further. I have time. It only became an issue when cleaning the deck and the short period when dumping the collection bags. Sure would be easier and less wear on the starter/battery without the nanny switch in the seat.

Dave, any advice on the seat override?


Attachments:
rev bypass.JPG
rev bypass.JPG [ 38.29 KiB | Viewed 558 times ]

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“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE


Last edited by rx7locost on December 16, 2019, 8:13 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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PostPosted: July 23, 2019, 4:46 pm 
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Moving forward on my new JD, I have found the solution to the seat safety switch as follows:


Deere E103 seat safety switch class 101:

The switch has 2 independent SPST circuits that are normally closed with nobody on the seat. The outer 2 terminals form one switch, the inner two form the other. External wiring connects 2 end terminals as shown below. When weight is applied to the seat, it opens both circuits allowing the engine to run and the PTO to be engaged. When the mower is working normally and one gets up off the seat, both circuits close and the engine stops. It appears that these switches provide 2 separate circuits that shut the engine down. One is tied directly to the engine (presumably the magneto(?) coil) the other switch works thru the PTO system then on to the ignition only when the PTO is engaged. This is because the engine stills runs with the plug simply disconnected and nobody on the seat but immediately dies when trying to engage the PTO.

What is unique to this system is in the plug itself, not in the switch. In order to discourage an owner such as myself from simply disconnecting the plug, there is an interlock, a shorting bar internal to the plug that is held open by the switch. If disconnected from the switch the inner two terminals are shorted together. Thus effectively working as that part of the circuit is closed, not open as required to run.

All that is needed to defeat this system and operate as an older, unsafe mower, is to disconnect the plug and then insert an insulator along the 2 inner terminals in the plug. I used a piece of plastic cut from a cottage cheese lid.

This interlocking switch/plug system appears to be on many recent models of JD lawn tractors. This bypass may work on electric PTOs, I’m not sure. My tractor has a manual PTO.

This info is for educational purposes only. YMMV. I am not recommending a person does this to their mower. I am not responsible for any bodily harm to anyone who attempts this on their Deere.


Attachments:
File comment: Switch and plug as removed from the seat. Note the upper 2 terminals of the plug have a shorting wire crimped to the terminals.
seat a.JPG
seat a.JPG [ 74.75 KiB | Viewed 558 times ]
File comment: Here is the anti-Chuck switch embedded within the plug itself. Little do they know Ha-Ha-Ha.
seat b.JPG
seat b.JPG [ 44.31 KiB | Viewed 558 times ]
File comment: A view of the insulator inserted
seat c.JPG
seat c.JPG [ 40.25 KiB | Viewed 558 times ]
File comment: Another view of the insulator. Note the 2 fingers separated from the internal female terminals
seat d.JPG
seat d.JPG [ 44.75 KiB | Viewed 558 times ]
File comment: Secured to the body, ready for service. There is a wire tie on the plug preventing the insulator from vibrating out.
seat e.JPG
seat e.JPG [ 70.61 KiB | Viewed 558 times ]

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Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE


Last edited by rx7locost on December 16, 2019, 8:30 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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PostPosted: July 23, 2019, 4:53 pm 
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According to https://www.greenpartstore.com/John-Dee ... 12816.html this switch is used on the following mowers. I can't say for certain my "fix" works on these. It did work on the Deere E130

John Deere
102, 105, 115, 125, 135, 145
D100, D105, D110, D120, D130, D140, D150
L100, L105, L107, L108, L110, L111, L118, L120, L130
LA100, LA105, LA110, LA115, LA120, LA125, LA130, LA135, LA145, LA155
LT150 after serial number 040,259
LT160 after serial numbers MOL160H035097, MO160C035447, MO160D415192
LT170 after serial number 035,001
LT180, LT190
LTR180 after serial number 500,001
G110
X110, X125, X130R, X145, X155R

Sabre
14.542
1642HS
1742HS
17.542

Scotts
L1742
L17.542
L2048
L2548

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Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE


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PostPosted: July 23, 2019, 7:52 pm 
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Location: Halifax, Nova Scotia
Thank you!

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Isuzu Pickup/SR20DE, +401 COLD frame
Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=11601


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PostPosted: July 24, 2019, 11:19 am 
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Glad to help, Warren.

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Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE


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PostPosted: July 24, 2019, 12:37 pm 
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rx7locost wrote:
JD. You come anywhere near my Deere with a sawzall and there will be repercussions, trust me. :boxing:
And this morning, on my FaceBook feed, THIS pops up...
Attachment:
City Slicker.jpg
City Slicker.jpg [ 23.9 KiB | Viewed 1654 times ]
:rofl:

Peace, Love and "City Slickers"--
JDK

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JD, father of Quinn, Son of a... Build Log
Quinn the Slotus:Ford 302 Powered, Mallock-Inspired, Tube Frame, Hillclimb Special
"Gonzo and friends: Last night must have been quite a night. Camelot moments, mechanical marvels, Rustoleum launches, flying squirrels, fru-fru tea cuppers, V8 envy, Ensure catch cans -- and it wasn't even a full moon." -- SeattleTom


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PostPosted: August 5, 2019, 9:53 am 
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JD, I do resemble that remark! It already has been used a couple of times to mow and a couple more to move a small trailer. It is OK to call a Harbor Freight auxiliary vehicle that hooks up behind your car a "trailer", isn't it? I just want to know the proper terms.

Finally, a small bit of progress to report. I fit the new fender half up and found that the cut accuracy of the mating edge was pretty poor and a bit oversize. Fortunately it is easier to cut up to a quarter inch off than to stitch a quarter inch back on. I punched a bunch of holes for plug welding and went to town. Then the obligatory grinding and a bit of paint to protect the bare metal. I now have good metal to attach the sill pieces to and can get back to that project. If only the next couple of weeks was car-working time. :BH:


Attachments:
fender 1.JPG
fender 1.JPG [ 56.27 KiB | Viewed 561 times ]
fender 2.JPG
fender 2.JPG [ 96.31 KiB | Viewed 561 times ]

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Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE


Last edited by rx7locost on December 16, 2019, 8:43 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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PostPosted: September 9, 2019, 11:35 am 
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Well. I did it. I bought yet another MGB. :BH: This one, a '79 Roadster. This one will be my interim fun car until the GT gets finished, maybe 5 years from now? It needs some work. What 40 year old MG doesn’t? But I did drive it home. It was originally a western car but in IL for the last 25 years. Always garaged. No apparent rust thru in the usual places. All electrics work. Top is in pretty good condition. Speedo and tach are stable. It has the 2bbl downdraft weber conversion, SS header and exhaust system, new battery and fuel pump. It needs some things sorted and a new 50/50 paint job. It starts to miss at 3200 RPM, there is vibration from the 10+ year old tires, bent wheels or in the driveshaft, the steering has some slop that needs to be dialed out, carpeting, etc. I need to keep the work to a minimum as this is to be a interim car only.

The work on the GT has just started again after 6 weeks of abandonment. The re-sheeting of the Passenger side, outer fender is about done.

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“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE


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PostPosted: September 9, 2019, 12:55 pm 
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It won't be an interim car for long, Chuck I bought my GT three years ago as an 'interim car' for times when the Locost was in for repairs. It's since become my go-to-driver.

A '79 wouldn't be my first choice but if its been updated with a Weber and other refinements it's going to be a fun car. Sounds like a front-end rebuild may be in the cards, though.


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PostPosted: September 9, 2019, 8:53 pm 
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Yeah Nick, a '79 wasn't mine either. Regardless, it is my last choice. It was an economical, rust free survivor. That beats anything chrome bumper'ed or steel dash'ed. I hate the pillow dash! Did I already say it runs? It runs and drives. That is a big plus too in my price range. :mrgreen: I looked at a few that hadn't run in years. One Chrome bumper '71 and a couple of rubber bumpers too. I'm not looking for the ultimate machine. Just a fun car for Sunday drives and such. The GT will be my go-to car when it is done.

Already I found issues with the PO's Rube Goldberg throttle cable design and the PO had the timing set at 25deg BTC! Should be 10deg at 1500 RPM. I corrected the timing. A real Weber cable stop is on order. If this is the worst, I'll be happy. I am not so naïve as to think it is.

Maybe I shouldn't mess up this '69 GT build log with the newer '79 Roadster. And then just maybe getting a '79 MGB in shape isn't what this site is all about. I don't plan on any mods to this car.

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Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE


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PostPosted: September 11, 2019, 11:30 am 
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Location: Carlsbad, California, USA
The only thing saving me from duplicating your purchase is that we're out of garage space. My wife is very grateful for that.

Enjoy your new ride!

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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PostPosted: September 25, 2019, 8:32 am 
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WTH, why not? I ordered a new radiator off of FleaBay. The seller accidentally shipped 2. I didn't get billed for it. I am in the process or having him get the paperwork to return the extra one. The timing seemed to work out better if I tapped a hole for the vacuum advance in the intake manifold. In the OEM configuration the disty is supposed to get manifold vacuum, but only in 4th gear, another WTH time happened! Anyway it seems much happier now.

I got the throttle cable sorted out. Now I can feel the 2nd barrel open up. The steering wheel turned out to be loose on the shaft. Tightening that down reduced a lot of that slop. I also found the left rear brake cylinder was frozen. A new one was purchased and now things stop much better. The driveshaft was replaced with a rebuilt one from my stash. new tires were purchased, 185/70 R14 Sumic GT-A which are a house tire made by Sumitomo. They are sold by several different brands. I decided to use my aluminum LE wheels. They were the white and pink ones originally on the 1st GT I got. I think they will stand a better chance of running round that the ROstyles. I have them off being blasted and powder coated. Should have them back by the weekend. Next up on the list is installing that radiator.

As for the GT, I am slowly closing up the fender gap. At this year's swap meet I bought a Left rear fender repair panel. Unfortunately I needed the RH one. :BH: It turns out that I could cut parts out to fit the RH wheel well where I need it and just replace the good metal previously removed for access. I will only have to fab a small 1 inch gap. I think I'm perfectly capable of doing that. Still there will be enough left of the repair panel left over to repair the small rust area on the LH side.

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Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE


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