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Home vs vehicle is true but unfortunately compromises are necessary. However, point taken! I will tape the bundles together to prevent chafe among the individual wires/lines and "seal" the ends to prevent unwanted debris.
The runs are short so that access should not be too hard, I hope.
A standard wiring harness is usually wrapped very tightly(example - BMW) with a plastic wrap that prevents much heat escape. A shorted wire WILL take out the harness - personal experience from working on them for 30 years. I have split many a harness to repair rather than paying several hundred dollars for a replacement that was more labor intensive to replace the whole thing. Independent repair shops have more options than the dealer.
I spent a lot of time solving a problem on a BMW 740il with a rear harness the dealer had replaced because of corrosion due to the battery. The original problem was actually a simple repair that would have required splicing a few wires but not profitable to the dealer. The replacement harness required a lot of "removing of panels" to install. Unfortunately a hidden ground was not tightened. The dealer bailed on the resulting problem.

You are welcome regarding the rivets. I will also be using 3M Scotch-weld 2216 B/A adhesive.

JMR

JMR said:

Ha! Good one... Apologies for the hijack, but I gotta tell this one....

One of my bestest friends here runs a shop that specializes in repairs of old British cars. He works mostly on TR's and Jags, but does other stuff as well. A client brought in a Morgan that he'd just bought at auction for some repairs. Amongst other ills, there was a lot of electrical stuff that didn't work, like front turn signals, dash lights, etc.

JK started in on it, and found that the components were working and had +12v coming to them, they just didn't seem to be grounded. He traced the front wiring harness and found... You guessed it!!! Some previous owner had replaced some wiring and had attached a (shortened) ground wire to part of the ash wood subframe!!!

Honest!!! Who could make this stuff up????

JDK

I like what you're doing with your project.

I'm contemplating something similar but I don't have the patience for so many rivets, I'll make a fiberglass tub instead.

I'm sure that I will be heavily influenced by your front suspension packaging choices.

Keep up the good work.

Wow, your build is like a blast from the past. Excellent build, will be following it.

Updates ---- other projects have slowed progress - inevitable I guess. There was also a lot of Paralysis by Analysis.
Progress made on the shift linkage!!! I am not a believer in cable shift so after the 3rd iteration of the linkage, it is done. Final detail is needed but it works (probably will rattle though). The linkage has to take longitudinal movement and convert it into rotational movement and vice versa. The shift rod on the Toyota trans engages a gear by rotating the shaft and selects a gear (1/2, 2/3, 5/R) by moving the shaft in or out.
I was worried about loss of oil pressure when running hard so I attacked the pan. Overkill I am sure but that is ok, other that the excessive amount of time involved.
The other factor is the forward tilt of the engine/trans by 20 degrees. The main oil drain back for the head is on the low side so no biggie there but the transmission has a scoop in the rear cover to direct oil to the center of the input shaft. The tilt of the engine/trans was defeating the purpose of the scoop. I added a sheet metal bracket, that sealed the open side of the scoop to the side of the cover, to ensure oil was directed to the shaft. Sorry - no pictures of that.
There will be 2 fuel tanks because the shift linkage, coolant pipes and other items run down the center of the chassis.

JMR

No comments?? Not looking for a pat on the back but honest critique.

JMR

It's hard to tell, but do your added baffles go all the way to the bottom of the pan? it looks like they don't have a drain or opening to the rest of the pan, which would result in some oil getting caught on the outside.

and what are your concerns with cable shift? especially on an MR2, I would think the length and linkage position should result in little chance for binding or other problems.

just a probing mind looking for answers.....

The baffle box is made up of 4 pieces of 1" X 1/2" rectangular tubing. One end is open to the outside of the box and the other end has an opening inside the box. I took inspiration from a Lotus Elan pan that was posted on another forum. The box fits tight (as possible) to the bottom of the pan.
This is a better picture of the baffle box. It is sort of a "it can get in but not get out" system when cornering/braking, Just trying to keep the oil at the pickup.
Thanks for the probing.

I do not like the springy feel of a cable shift mechanism, my tunnel width is narrow (2") and the transmission is very close to the firewall (tight cable bends). Also it is something very different.

JMR

aha, I can see the entry holes now. thats a neat idea!

I know you've posted about this before and please DO continue to post your updates. I thoroughly enjoy them. I don't think I could do anything more than say "Looks great" and I typically feel like a dork when that's the entire content of my post.

I am certain that if someone identified something which was an issue, they would point it out, but you clearly know what you're doing and can do it well so you can rest assured that 1) I am subscribed to your build thread and 2) I am humbled by your skills and accomplishments.

I know sometimes it can be hard to read "tone" and intent over the internet. This post is made with genuine sincerity and respect for you and your skills. Please continue to post your progress- I look forward to it.

Chris

Wow, that poor oil doesn't have a chance. Not sure it necessary, but it is so cool who cares?

Shifter mechanisim looks nice. Does the action have any free play? Did you design for any particular effort force or are you just going to
work it out by trial and error?

Thanks
Grant

Ckouba, Thanks a lot. I actually wonder sometimes if it is worth the effort to post but your comment and the comments of others make it worthwhile. I do see some things posted by builders that make me nervous. There are also positive/safety concerns pointed out that builders seems to shrug off. I appreciate all comments as I know I am not infallible. Other forum members bring many more eyes, thoughts and approach's to the table.

Rundownfid - that's it, I do not want to give the oil a chance!! Engines cost too much nowadays to take the chance. Thanks

Grant - The gearshift play is actually minimal even with all the joints and the feel is very positive. I can easily select all the gears and luckily the trans has spring loaded the gates for 1/2 and 5/R built in. Reverse cannot be selected directly from 5th (thank you Toyota!) I did my best at calculating the motion but also built in some adjustment to quicken or slow the motion as needed. Actual driving will tell.

Looking good. Are you going to retain the windage tray?

Yes I will have the stock windage tray also. The small brazed in horizontal baffle is to keep the oil from moving up into the crankshaft area in right hand turns. I always think of fore and aft oil slosh and have to keep remembering this is a transverse engine. The pan will probably carry an extra quart. The stock dip stick does not touch the bolt in baffle cover.

JMR