It's been two weeks since I started this. The engine should be at the terminal for pick up in the next couple days. I'm going with a GM cavalier/sunbird rack and pinion so I can make the tie rods as long as possible since the trailing arm suspension doesn't change track width with suspension travel. This is the same rack I've reccomended for 60's mustangs and front steer right hand drive locosts. The bug steering system prevents best placement of the frame tubes.
I am not using a buggy center rack because even though they can be found for less than $100, by the time you add the splined shafts, joints, and tie rods, it costs more than $200. Plus the cheaper racks have the tie rods on the ends and the narrowest one I've found is 8-1/2" inner pivot to inner pivot.
I considered welding the beam in but that would eliminate one method of caster adjustment.
Does anybody know what the stock height of a vw beam is? I'm thinking lowered balljoint spindles with avis adjusters to fine tune the ride height, with standard length shocks and a standard design "non-lowered" 3/4" sway bar.
Instead of using the atv rear disc as the parking brake, I'm using the vw parking brake on the one rear drum. Drum parking brakes hold much better too.
Since I no longer have access to someone elses, I'm finally getting my own compressor and sand blaster. These are required for restoring all these 40 year old VW parts. After hunting on Craigs List for a few weeks, I bought HBFs largest blaster for $220 on sale.
I bought a compressor on Craigs for $400. It is a Husky 6.5 hp, 10.2 cfm @ 90 psi.
Now I'm wiring my barn for power. I have a few extra spaces in my home load panel to add a 2 pole 60 amp breaker, with NM 6/3 under the house to the rear corner to a box for splicing to UF 6/3, routed out through a lb connector (elbow) to pvc pipe, then direct burial 24" deep with a rented ditch witch trencher, another pvc pipe/lb connector/box to an 8 position sub panel, branching to a 20 amp 2 pole for the 220 compressor, 20 amp 2 pole for the 220 welders, and two 15 amp 1 poles for the lights and outlets. NM 12/2 for the 120 outlets and lights.
I also ordered about 20 Arbor Day Foundation trees over the summer. They should be here for planting next week. Pecans, dwarf peach elberta, dwarf bing and black tartarian cherries, pink and white dogwoods, washington hawthorns, red buds, forsythias, flowering prairie crabapples, golden raintrees, and red maples. http://www.arborday.org/index.cfm
My donor beam. Note disc brake spindles but I'm going with drums. Note steering linkage, damper, and brackets to be removed. I will be using these wheels too. Note bias ply tires.
Here is a 1993 cavalier steering rack ($50) It bolts directly to the cavalier column with a single rag joint. It was a pain to remove. The brake booster had to come out. It will be converted to manual. Note toe adjuster. With no adjustment, it is within an inch of aligning with the vw front end. Maybe the gm tie rod will fit the vw spindle. Note the steering input is just as far off center as the vw box so no benefit there.
Here is a vw bug irs trailing arm/hub/drum/ebrake assy ($35). I will need to have machined an adapter plate that matches the stub on one side and a step to space the pulley away from the stub far enough to clear the stub bolt heads and a concentric ring. The adapter will accept various qd bushed pulleys if I want to change the ratio later. This pulley is 1/4" too small to be drilled and bolted directly to the stub.
Spent so far:
Final drive pulleys $100
Bucket seat $50
ATV for CVT drive, FNR, fuel tanks, $200
VW rear hub/brake/trailing arm $35
VW beam with wheels $50