LocostUSA.com

The correct tools for this cost about $130 combined with shipping.
PN# SCP-1 for removal of the drive clutch from the crank taper: $25
3/4-16 bolt from Mcmaster: $5.71 each or about $10 for 5. Also requires a spacer from a cut bolt or steel rod.
PN# PCP-1 for removal of a stuborn driven pulley from the fnr spline: $35

PN# 341 for working on the drive clutch: $56
I'll see what I can come up with.

http://www.erlandsonperformance.com/mm5 ... olatvtools

On a side note, this is the same clutch system used by many formula SAE teams. I hear they get it for free directly from Polaris. A new driven, drive, and belt cost about $500 total, depending on the source, not including the fnr, belt cover, etc.

The missing bolt on the drive clutch broke off in the clutch. The fasteners are grade 5, 1/4-20 so they are a good fuse to over torquing Fortunately, it came out easily.

I checked the FNR ratio in forward gear by rotating the driven pulley 360 degrees with a reference mark on the rear brake disc. I checked it with a protractor and found 135 degrees output rotation for a ratio of 2.66:1. I also found that I have room for a final drive pulley OD of 4.5" in the exact position as the original drive sprocket. The largest pulley that will fit from Mcmaster is a 24T with a 4.016" OD (pn 6495k47, $55.17) for an H belt, 1/2" pitch. This will maximize tooth contact with the belt. I can also retain the rear brake disc as a mechanical parking brake.

Again, the goal is 65-70 mph at 2400 rpm, using a 23.25" tire.

23.25 x 2400 / 336 x 2.66 x X = 70 mph.
55800 / 70 = 797.14285
336 x 2.66 = 893.76
797.14285 / 893.76 = 0.8918981:1 final drive ratio
24 tooth drive x .8918981 = 21.4 tooth driven
Unfortunately, since I have selected the 24t drive due to the desired OD, I am locked into matching pulleys so it has to be the 20T (pn 6495k46, $47.16) for a final ratio of .833:1 and 74.9 mph at 2400 IF the cvt achieves 1:1. I think I will go with 1:1 final by using two 24T pulleys to ensure the cvt reaches 1:1 position, better accell, and I can turn a little more rpm for the higher speed. I can always convert to .83 later just by swapping the rear pulley if the accell is excessive.

For a 1:1 final drive:
55800 / 893.76 = 62.43 at 2400 rpm. 2800 rpm = 72.8 mph. 3000 rpm = 78 mph.

UPDATE: I spoke to a fellow in TN who imports small used diesels from Japan and sells them on Craigs and Ebay. I was concerned with the starter ring gear fouling the fnr so he measured a few for me right then. The supermini 902 and 5 series (3 cyl and 4 cyl) use a flywheel that is 9-5/8" OD with the ring gear protruding another 1/16" for a total OD of 9-3/4". This barely fits and allows me to reuse the belt cover and stock length belt. He said even the smallest Yanmars have very large flywheels at about 11" od.

Every Kubota engine I asked about was $1500. When I told him about my project, he insisted the v1200 4 cyl was the one to use because it was smoother running. He said the engines setup to run 3600 rpm vibrated a lot more than those designed to run 3000 rpm. Anyway, I need to plan this purchase. I have not found any deals on used kubotas in the size I require, but I'll keep looking while I save for this. The minimum size I will use is a 902. Meanwhile I can work on the vw bits.

I edited my previous post because the Polaris cvt driven pulley removal bolt is not 1"-14. I didn't measure it and just ordered what I read would work. I returned the 1-14 and picked up a 1"-8 x 3" (pn 92865a916, $3.28) by process of elimination versus actually checking. Well, I should have checked, because 1"-8 tpi does not fit either. It is 1"-12 tpi, a very old standard and no longer used for this diameter bolt. I cannot buy a bolt with the correct thread. However, I can buy rod stock in the correct thread (pn 98790a415, 12" $14.15). It is still cheaper than buying a set of pullers I doubt I will ever use. Thats what I get for not checking. Fortunately Mcmaster is not far out of my way and they accept returns.

The 3/4" drive clutch removal bolt does fit. Pics to follow.

I also picked up the final drive pulleys. It looks like the drive pulley will barely clear the fnr case. I will have it broached to fit the Polaris fnr and machine to the same thickness as the Polaris drive sprocket so the snap ring can retain it. I found a driven pulley with 22 teeth to work with my 24 tooth drive pulley for 0.916:1 overdrive to help with the Smart's smaller tire OD. Pics to follow.

Instead of the 135R15 on a vw 4.5x15 rim, I am going with the Smart ForTwo size of 14565R15 on avw 4.5x15 rim. It should be 22.4-22.6" OD. Continental makes the EcoConti Contact EP for $60 each, $180/set since I only need 3. Here is Tire Racks info on the tire.

"The ContiEcoContact EP (Economy Plus) is Continental's Passenger Summer tire developed for the drivers of the Smart Fortwo (Original Equipment on 2004-2006 model year vehicles). The ContiEcoContact EP's low rolling resistance design helps save fuel and reduce vehicle CO2 emissions while providing traction in dry and wet road conditions. However like all summer tires, the ContiEcoContact EP is not intended to be driven in near-freezing temperatures, through snow or on ice.

ContiEcoContact EP tires feature a silica-enhanced compound into an asymmetric design with solid tread blocks and a continuous rib on the outboard shoulder to promote responsiveness and cornering stability, while a continuous center rib provides constant rubber-to-road contact to reduce noise and control the longitudinal forces experienced when braking. Circumferential tread grooves and independent tread blocks on the inboard tread resist hydroplaning and enhance wet weather traction. The tire's internal structure includes twin steel belts to stabilize the tread area on top of a polyester carcass that promotes consistent ride quality.

*NOTE: The ContiEcoContact EP Passenger Summer defaults to the Passenger All-Season tire category because there aren't enough Passenger Summer tire models to support a performance category."

They have a Bridgestone Blizzack for $40 each and a Pirelli for $35 each as closeouts but they are winter tires that have greater rolling resistance.

I'm thinking I'll use a fiero seat wth the head rest speakers. They are designed for low mounting and a partially reclined seating position and a 6' driver. I'll need the adjustability to fit drivers from 4'11" to 6'. I'll have to check what Mr Mike charges for a single seat cover.

Well, Mike gets waay to much to do a set of seat covers these days. I was one of his first customers when he charged about $300 for a pair of leather seats with the speaker holes. I think I'm going with a cavalier/sunbird/sunfire seat. They fit me well and look good, are pretty light weight with no power accessories and the older ones don't have airbags. I'll use the passenger seat since it will be in better shape. I'll look for one tommorrow.

Empi sells two different bearing hubs for vw bug irs trailing arm fabrication. One is steel and the other billet. They both cost around $100 each. I'll just modify the factory piece.

With a gps speedo and backup monitor, these Auber Instruments indicators will look great. One indicator can do many things, but can be configured for only one function at a time. I think I need a box of these. The larger one is a tach and can be used like a hobbs meter for maintenance intervals. I'll use a prox sensor on the flywheel for a tach output.

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_ ... ex&cPath=5

There is a fan behind the drive clutch. I'll need to dupicate the tapered shaft with an adapter that bolts to the kubota flywheel. Since this is a bad engine, I can start by slicing it off the 400 crank.

Here are the final drive pulleys. I bought two 24t then decided on overdrive and ordered the 22t.

I stopped by small salvage yard to look at seats and picked this passenger seat from a 2nd gen neon for $50. It is lightweight, simple, and fits me well.

After much haggling with serveral sources, I have bought a used D1105E for $1100 shipped. This is basically Jacks engine without the turbo, putting out 25 hp.

Left out clutch fan pic.

Link to engine specs pdf. Power is shown in kw, not bhp.

http://www.kubotaengine.com/products/pd ... 105_30.pdf

Score!

If you ever trip over a similar* deal on a V1505T, let me know.


*Similar as in similar cost per hp, not similar as in $1100.

Your probably in motorcycle encyclopedia territory now.

I knew I’d seen a v1505 somewhere. Road trip?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... 42#vi-desc

I also used to be a professional bike, rv, atv, and aircraft mechanic, but I'm happy to be considered an auto encylo.

I'd ask him to pull it for me if it was a T, but the normally aspirated version doesn't meet my need for speed.

You already have the turbo. To determine if you would need buy more than an intake manifold to use the 1105 turbo system on a V1505, compare parts catalog numbers for an D1105T and a V1505T. Since parts are expensive, you could fab a manifold from Weld Ls and .250" plate. I expect there is a total fuel flow adjustment that can be increased. If it smokes, dial it back. FYI, I do not have much diesel experience but I'm working on that.

For free Kubota Manuals, go here:
http://www.jacobsen.com/products/
Select fairway mowers, then LF3800 for the V1505T application. The SLF-1880 uses the D1105 and a optional D1105T.

In general, engine applications can be checked when looking at various mowers by selecting the "technical specifications" button on the left column, then scroll down to expand the "engine" tab.

Select the "manuals" tab on the left column, then the appropriate manuals under the Parts Manual and service manual sections.

The threaded rod I bought from Mcmaster (1"-12 x 12", $14.15) fits! The threads in the driven pulley are only about 1" deep so I will have a lot left over. I didn't buy a nut since those are about $3.50 each. I will cut and weld a T handle across the back of a two inch long section. The rear isn't tapered so it should come off easily. I must have some corrosion in there.

On my tv, I replaced the convergence chips and found one that had little to no dielectric grease to transfer the heat to the heat sink. On the power supply board (G), a 5 amp pico fuse was blown. Everything else was good. When I use the autofocus, only one + moves, so I think I may have a cable crossed on the D board.

On the Fire Aero, I stopped by and took a few pics. I apologize for the quality. It was in a dark storage building and my old camera needs to be replaced.

It is really cramped. The seats are upholstered pads that snapo on to the fiberglass rear "firewall" and are not adjustable. The occupants hang outboard of the center frame rail (see earlier post) in a fiberglass pod. Even so, it is more protection than a motorcyclist is used to and very cool. This fellow used home improvement parts, such as screen door latches for door handles and a window crank for moving the headlamp up and down (first gen Fire Aero). It is a V65 Magna drivetrain. Instead of placing the radiator up front, he used a larger than stock radiator on the left side of the fuel tank with an airscoop in the body. This did not supply sufficient cooling so he added a second, even larger radiator on the other side. All he need to do is put the stock radiator in the nose. There is an opening for it.

A couple more pics of the door mechanism. It is very flimsy without the roof panels attached.

Thanks Miatav8, I'll cruise Jacobsen fairway mowers on ebay and craigslist for wrecks and rollovers.True, but I already have a functional car, and if I strip the turbo off it for a new car, I think MAX will become quite the slug*. Also, there are gobs of little widgets (and a couple of not-so-little, like the intake manifold) that have to be swapped out when adding the turbo, so my budget is calling for a complete used engine rather than an engine I can modify.

Not that I don't plan to modify it anyway, but the mods will be pretty inexpensive. Like respringing the governor to 3600 rpm max instead of 3000, grinding the fuel pump ramp to allow more fuel at max throttle, respringing the waste gate so there's more air for the more fuel; I think I can get a V1505T to 55 hp intermittent (a 25% increase) without much trouble which would be enough to blow the doors off an S1 Lotus Seven. If it had any doors.

Speaking of doors (and lack thereof), are you intending any side impact protection for your trike? I've had hot rodders tell me they wouldn't feel safe in my car because it's so low--I don't argue with them, but I do wonder why they feel safe in their Deuces and Bucket Ts. Man, there's nothing between them and the next car but a fiberglass skin, and ditto for the Fire Aero.

*I think your trike will be just fine with the NA D1105, thanks to single seat and three wheels, but MAX needs the T-power of the D1105T for its weight and load.

My trike will use dom 1-1/2" tube for the upper rails and at shoulder height from the rear firewall to the front beam. The upper rails will form the "A" pillars between the windshield and quarter glass, extending the full wheelbase from the front beam to the rear wheel. The wheelbase and front track will be standard vw bug. The rest of the tubing for the frame will be 1" rhs. The body supports and front and rear subframes/bumpers to support the driveline and radiator will be 3/4" rhs. The body will

The body will not have fender flares like the fire aero, just a consistent straight taper to just beyond the rear tire where the body will be about 12" wide and house the tail lamp, turn signals, and tag bracket with rear view camera. The body will be about 36" wide at the top of the front fender arc. The side glass will tilt in about 30 degrees to help with cross winds.

Access will be a steel framed side window and roof panel that will nest into a saddle in the upper frame rail, similar to what they do on Legends cars for the door.

With the cvt, the accell should be very good. I plan to make a long tube header for it also.

It's been two weeks since I started this. The engine should be at the terminal for pick up in the next couple days. I'm going with a GM cavalier/sunbird rack and pinion so I can make the tie rods as long as possible since the trailing arm suspension doesn't change track width with suspension travel. This is the same rack I've reccomended for 60's mustangs and front steer right hand drive locosts. The bug steering system prevents best placement of the frame tubes.

I am not using a buggy center rack because even though they can be found for less than $100, by the time you add the splined shafts, joints, and tie rods, it costs more than $200. Plus the cheaper racks have the tie rods on the ends and the narrowest one I've found is 8-1/2" inner pivot to inner pivot.

I considered welding the beam in but that would eliminate one method of caster adjustment.
Does anybody know what the stock height of a vw beam is? I'm thinking lowered balljoint spindles with avis adjusters to fine tune the ride height, with standard length shocks and a standard design "non-lowered" 3/4" sway bar.

Instead of using the atv rear disc as the parking brake, I'm using the vw parking brake on the one rear drum. Drum parking brakes hold much better too.

Since I no longer have access to someone elses, I'm finally getting my own compressor and sand blaster. These are required for restoring all these 40 year old VW parts. After hunting on Craigs List for a few weeks, I bought HBFs largest blaster for $220 on sale.

I bought a compressor on Craigs for $400. It is a Husky 6.5 hp, 10.2 cfm @ 90 psi.
Now I'm wiring my barn for power. I have a few extra spaces in my home load panel to add a 2 pole 60 amp breaker, with NM 6/3 under the house to the rear corner to a box for splicing to UF 6/3, routed out through a lb connector (elbow) to pvc pipe, then direct burial 24" deep with a rented ditch witch trencher, another pvc pipe/lb connector/box to an 8 position sub panel, branching to a 20 amp 2 pole for the 220 compressor, 20 amp 2 pole for the 220 welders, and two 15 amp 1 poles for the lights and outlets. NM 12/2 for the 120 outlets and lights.

I also ordered about 20 Arbor Day Foundation trees over the summer. They should be here for planting next week. Pecans, dwarf peach elberta, dwarf bing and black tartarian cherries, pink and white dogwoods, washington hawthorns, red buds, forsythias, flowering prairie crabapples, golden raintrees, and red maples.

http://www.arborday.org/index.cfm

Pics:
My donor beam. Note disc brake spindles but I'm going with drums. Note steering linkage, damper, and brackets to be removed. I will be using these wheels too. Note bias ply tires.

Here is a 1993 cavalier steering rack ($50) It bolts directly to the cavalier column with a single rag joint. It was a pain to remove. The brake booster had to come out. It will be converted to manual. Note toe adjuster. With no adjustment, it is within an inch of aligning with the vw front end. Maybe the gm tie rod will fit the vw spindle. Note the steering input is just as far off center as the vw box so no benefit there.

Here is a vw bug irs trailing arm/hub/drum/ebrake assy ($35). I will need to have machined an adapter plate that matches the stub on one side and a step to space the pulley away from the stub far enough to clear the stub bolt heads and a concentric ring. The adapter will accept various qd bushed pulleys if I want to change the ratio later. This pulley is 1/4" too small to be drilled and bolted directly to the stub.

Spent so far:
Rack $50
Final drive pulleys $100
Bucket seat $50
engine $1100
ATV for CVT drive, FNR, fuel tanks, $200
VW rear hub/brake/trailing arm $35
VW beam with wheels $50

Subscribing, can't wait to see how this one turns out!