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Finally recieved my Sylva Riot from England yesterday.

Plan is Honda K24 motor, powerglide auto and the rest will be as published



Starting dummying stuff up mainly to make sure I got all the bits

Eh??

Was that a joke for another performing forum ...?

Nice simple design/layout, good luck with it.

Nope, I'm running a 'glide with a Gates belt drive setup

So you're going to longitudinally mount the engine I presume and go ala "Big GT40"

You know the one;
http://www.gt40s.com/forum/gt40-tech-po ... 00-hp.html


Why don't you just use transverse and the Honda auto?

Sorrys guys, I've put this in the wrong section, it should be in with the middies.

Cheapie, no it will still be transverse with a glide beside it and belt drive to the rear end. Honda auto won't take the power I'm planning

Then adapt it to a GM 4T65E-HD auto and save all the hassle - also have equal length and strong driveshafts, big brakes etc, save a lot of money using junkyard bits.

Has advantages like final drive ratio easy to change (sprockets and chain), known tricks and upgrades etc.

I love thinking outside the square ...but im having trouble with this one will the powerglide be a shortened one like they use in speedway ?

Kiwi Dave

Yes



Very early in development as I needed the chassis to work out fitment.

I'm interested to ask where the drive goes from the trans output to rotate the axles (axle?).....

The drive will be returning to the centre of the car via a shaft where the 1/4 extension is, then belt drive down to a toothed pulley mounted on a Cressida differential. It's going to take a ton of time, effort and money :/

Got quoted $300-350 to get the frame sandblasted and powdercoated today which seems pretty good

I presume you are aiming for Oz fastest street car or World's fastest Kit-Car?

Chasing 0-60 or 1/4?

Your layout is pretty simple, why the big cost?

Hmmmm...... One piece flange on the pump drive and a foot operated bypass valve on the line pressure circuit?

Old school but effective

Not really after titles just something quick. The twin of my motor makes a little over 1000hp...

The big cost will be the bellhousing/diff carrier which will be CNC machined out of one (huge) piece of alloy.

Well that's a choice, you could make a spaceframe - there are actual bellhousings around made from spaceframes and certainly plenty of BEC diff carriers.

This is often a prefered method in the aircraft and aerospace industry.

Make a spaceframe first and cure any issues then look at that CNC billet route if you feel the need, if nothing else it would make a good test run to make sure everything is correct.

Why not buy a proper dogbox instead of starting from zero?