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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: January 27, 2015, 12:59 am 
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the internals of the m62

(i think i got jealous after hearing a hellcat)


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PostPosted: January 27, 2015, 11:16 am 
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I'd run the turbo output into the mechanical super input. .. and no electric clutch.
That way the pressure differential between supercharger input and output stays small and the charger stays efficient.
(low engine speed gives more mechanical boost with no turbo boost and at high engine speeds the turbo compensates for efficiency losses in the mechanically driven charger.)
Boost is developed as compared to atmospheric pressure on the input side but with a twincharge setup the atmospheric pressure the mechanical drive unit sees is whatever the turbo puts out.

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PostPosted: January 27, 2015, 2:12 pm 
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The voice of reason
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For autocross I think the simpler pure supercharger makes sense. You'll always be under 100 MPH, mostly a lot less I would think and that will limit the amount of torque you can use. Things happen quick on an autocross circuit so I think that's why the simpler setup will be an advantage. One extra tailslide from the turbo boost kicking in will give you a losing time, and it will be hard to predict.

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PostPosted: January 31, 2015, 8:24 pm 
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Location: meadview arizona
if i might ask how much did you pay for the eaton m62 from a wrecking yard?

zz performance have them new for $799.00 yes thats new, not rebuilt!

having completed the mods for the 2015 season, i am already looking at this mod for next winter so will be collecting parts throughout the year.

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PostPosted: February 11, 2015, 3:02 pm 
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Sorry for no replies, have been working 100+ hr/wks.

Paid $45! Was hard to turn down. Went back to grab the bypass valve and it was $35, seems ridiculous relative to cost of a supercharger.

After reading a lot more on twinchargers last night, looks like turbo>throttle body>>supercharger>>engine is more user friendly and able to control boost. Running them at the same time compounds boost, and I'll have way too much. I also did think about just running the supercharger, but but don't think it'll get me to my power goals. In addition, I also plan to eventually rev it to 8k to be able to stay in gear longer, and i'll run out of the m62 efficiency range easily.


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PostPosted: February 11, 2015, 11:02 pm 
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And regarding the turbo snap, I used to have a wrx with a larger size turbo, and steep boost ramp. That does not really work for autoX, and I had to slow the ramp up a bit for autoX. However, I still had a map for the street that hit hard, for getting out of situations quickly.

These roots superchargers are pretty simple. Replacing the rear bearing was super easy (little heat and tapped out), gears are straight forward, smoothed out the "cylinders" with a light rub with steel wool.


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PostPosted: March 17, 2015, 1:01 pm 
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I think you guys are correct, I'm just going to let the supercharger run the whole time. It will only build 3-6psi, so it should be OK for compound charging and still give me low rpm torque.

In other news, I finally moved the car forward after finishing the front end so that I can start to build the back. Yay!


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PostPosted: May 21, 2015, 12:06 am 
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Working on the rear suspension.

lolita


Last edited by Nick1224 on May 21, 2015, 2:50 am, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: May 21, 2015, 2:45 am 
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Also bought this off copart a couple months ago. I'm going to use engine/transmission to get my car up and running, then put the 2.2L in later.

(sorry, couldn't get pics to upload to site)

Image

Image

Image

Augie plays in the car when I get home from work. "my yellow vroom vroom" I'm not sure how he'll react when I tear it down.

Any suggestions for how to keep the shell mobile after removing the running gear?


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PostPosted: May 21, 2015, 5:18 pm 
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Location: Oregon, usually
Nick1224 wrote:
Any suggestions for how to keep the shell mobile after removing the running gear?
Sure; leave it on the trailer. :)

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PostPosted: May 21, 2015, 8:27 pm 
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Damn it! Knew there was a simple solution. :BH:

Thought about making a cart or something for it, but the casters would need to be serious


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PostPosted: May 25, 2015, 3:52 pm 
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Rear suspension numbers using Olley's rule to try and roll center relatively constant......or something like that

http://vsusp.com/?tool=2d#0.8%26project ... enter.y%7D


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PostPosted: June 2, 2015, 12:34 am 
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I've been reading about mounting the seat (Kirkey aluminum) and seems as though side mount should get the seat lower and theoretically more secure in a crash. This is my current thought: 1.5" square with holes drilled into the seat. And then the top of the seat is secured to the roll bar.


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PostPosted: August 26, 2015, 9:16 pm 
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Soooo....

Ordered a new seat, Bimarco Grip, as it has containment braces that will keep my head from hitting the roll cage while driving on the street.

Unfortunately, it makes me sit about 1.5" taller, putting me above the 2" helmet to cage distance. I cannot really recline the seat any further. It's side mounting, and sits on 1" square tubing.

Any ideas?

I've gone so far as to consider making some 2x3" steel boxes and using them as spacers between the cage and the very bottom of the frame. This would royally suck to do, but would give me the height I need.


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PostPosted: January 23, 2017, 12:32 am 
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So, been gone for a while. New baby, new job, surprisingly more time.

So, finally back to the project car.

This is the new rear suspension. Now I have access to a plasma cutter!


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