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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: January 19, 2015, 1:19 pm 
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Nice!

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PostPosted: January 19, 2015, 2:07 pm 
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That's beautiful, put a smile on my face!

Can you give us a picture of your clevis? I think I've tended to overthink those.

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And, after looking at the pics, I really do need to clean up the shelves in the garage.


No, just keep building - you'll use it up some day. Or maybe land up with a whole other building with shelves, life is full of risks!

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PostPosted: January 19, 2015, 2:14 pm 
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Cut yourself some slack. 8)

But you better get that stuff off the freezer ,your wife is going to kill you ! :roll:
Randy :mrgreen:

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PostPosted: January 19, 2015, 3:03 pm 
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But you better get that stuff off the freezer ,your wife is going to kill you ! :roll:


I'm working out of dear old dads garage, so had the freezer not been earmarked for the recyclers, mum would have been upset.


Marucs,
The clevises are made from 3"x1"x1/8" HSS, which seem to have enough clearance for the 3/8" rod ends I'm using on the trailing links. But, I will have to make up a rectangular washer with beveled edges so that the bolt head (or nut for the lower ones) has something to rest against.

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Rod


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PostPosted: January 19, 2015, 3:13 pm 
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Cool drawing ! I 'm impressed ! :cheers:
Randy :mrgreen:

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PostPosted: January 19, 2015, 3:51 pm 
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I'm impressed too!


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PostPosted: February 11, 2015, 11:28 am 
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This past weekend was a long weekend here in BC, so I got some work done. First off I picked up an Eastwood Tig welder, nice little unit, and once you get the hang of it, it easy to use, although I haven't figured out how to weld aluminum yet. I also managed to get the rear suspension mounts tacked to the chassis, which got the thing one step closer to being on its wheels and shoved under the bodyshell. I loosely bolted the rear suspension on the car and had a look at toe changes in bump and droop, the hub toes-in under bump and droop. So I would assume that if I set the rear toe-in to anything at static ride height I should be ok. Once I get it cleaned up and the rear hub carriers fully welded I'll check it again, and post pics.

Here are some pics of the messy garage with a chassis in it somewhere:

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Image

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Rod


Last edited by cs3tcr on February 11, 2015, 3:26 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: February 11, 2015, 12:34 pm 
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Is that an MG TF I see over there in the corner?

Good luck with the aluminum welding. It will come around.

Roy

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PostPosted: February 11, 2015, 12:53 pm 
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Roy,
You're correct, it's a TF. Dear old dad bought it 15 years ago in boxes, and we were hoping to have it ready for paint last summer, but a Lotus Europa appeared along with an OD gearbox for the MGB that's in the garage too. So, maybe next year it will get finished. The chassis is fully restored; motor, gearbox and diff have all been rebuilt; all the body panels and wood have been either repaired or replaced; all the chrome has been replated; seats and panels are ready to be installed; etc. All that remains is paint and final assembly. If he was ambitious it would get done quicker, but he's busy building slot cars and stick and tissue model airplanes these days, so its been left to me.

Rod


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PostPosted: February 11, 2015, 1:11 pm 
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Rod,
I got the Eastwood TIG 200 a few months back, and I'm very happy with it. I wished I would have started practising with aluminum sooner, because after getting the basic hang of it, my steel welding improved in leaps and bounds. It's good fun.
My only complaint is the flow meter, although nothing wrong with it, it reads at the very bottom of the scale. 7 - 10 L/min barely registers. I see KMS has a sale on a flow meter right now; not too sure if it is worth the investment, though.
I bought a gas lens kit on Ebay, from River welding I think, directly from China. Same components that came with the welder, and nothing wrong with them. Work great.

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My build log:
viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14520&start=0
My build video:
https://vimeo.com/143524140 password "matovid"


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PostPosted: February 11, 2015, 2:04 pm 
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Martin,
I read in your build log that you had one, and that you were pleased with it. They were on sale on Fleabay just after Christmas for $699, so one was ordered. I made a stop in at KMS on the weekend to get filler rod, then back once more to get a new welding mask as mine decided to crap out about three minutes into trying out the welder. I really should have looked into the flow regulator they have on sale, as like you've stated, the Eastwood one isn't the best. But, all of my monthly fun budget was spent on getting everything else set up so the Eastwood one will have to do for now.

Thanks for the heads-up on the gas lens kit, I had a quick look on Fleabay and found River Welding. What size tungsten are you using for your frame work, and are you using the same for the aluminum? I started off with the 3/32" Red electrode, but swapped to 1/16" later in the weekend. Both worked fine, but the 1/16" were half the price of the larger ones.

Rod


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PostPosted: February 11, 2015, 3:00 pm 
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Rod,
I use the Tri-mix electrodes from KMS. They are a CK Worldwide brand, and you can find some good info on their web site. They work equally well on steel and aluminum. I used the 1/16th for my header and the 4130 fender stays and the 3/32 for the driveshaft work. For the aluminum, the 3/32 (ground to a round tip) works better, since it handles the heat better. Even a 0.065 aluminum plate will take about 110 A plus. The 1/16th electrode will heat up too much on AC. Once you get going with the 3/32 it's a thing of beauty.
I'm just looking at the KMS flyer, and I'll order that flow meter; I'll keep you posted. I get my KMS stuff through my local NAPA, so it's easy to get carried away. :oops:


Edit. Sorry, meant 0.125; good stuff for practicing on. 0.065 isn't really plate. That Grecian formula makes me too blond :BH:

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My build log:
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My build video:
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Last edited by mgkluft on February 11, 2015, 7:56 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: February 11, 2015, 3:18 pm 
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Looks GREAT Rod ! And you can shim the rack !

:cheers:

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PostPosted: February 11, 2015, 5:50 pm 
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B85 wrote:
Looks GREAT Rod ! And you can shim the rack !

:cheers:


I agree.


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PostPosted: February 12, 2015, 8:08 am 
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Hello,

Congratulations for your work.
I also restored a Lotus Europa Type 46, and I've been thinking about changing the rear axle as a Type 47.
I have a Renault 12 Gordini engine (110 hp), while the original chassi was correct.
You have used the original dimentions lotus 47 for your hub bearings, or you imagined a special assembly?

Best Regards :cheers:
http://club.caradisiac.com/hachille/


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