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Great work as usual Rod.

I agree with Martins' comments and would add two things. One, don't bother grinding the tungsten for aluminum. Use electrode positive, hold over a copper or brass block and give a blip. A molten glob should form on the tungsten. Very good for welding aluminum. Secondly, aluminum sucks up heat like there's no tomorrow. Don't set your expectations too high on how thick you can weld. 1/8" for sure but over that, maybe not so well and the torch, if it's not water cooled can get really hot.

Keep up the good work

Ron

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They say a journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step. By the time you finish the car it'll feel like you've done it on your knees.

Its coming along nicely. Great work.

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-Andrew
Build Log
Youtube

Ron,
I tried to get that molten blob. I really did, until I was blue in the face. Actually the tungsten turned blue. I melted nearly everything around me, just no blob. Until I re-read the getting-a-good-blob-instructions. Electrode positive! No switch for that Only DC and AC. For the reduced cost, DC+ is missing.
So, Rod, you'll need to grind a round point.

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Martin


My build log:
viewtopic.php?f=35&t=14520&start=0
My build video:
https://vimeo.com/143524140 password "matovid"

Are you using a "thoriated" tungsten or a pure tungsten. If I recall you need a pure tungsten to get the ball tip to form. thoriated wilol maintain its point.

Too bad Martin, it's just such an easy way of getting the ideal end on the tungsten for welding aluminum. And if Rod has the same machine I guess grinding is the only answer.

Speaking of grinding I guess everyone knows it's better to use a dedicated grinding wheel for tungstens to prevent contamination.

I used thoriated tungstens for about 20 years and put ball ends on them without any problem before switching to another type.

Ron

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They say a journey of a thousand miles begins with a single step. By the time you finish the car it'll feel like you've done it on your knees.

Ron,
I do have the same machine as Martin, so no polarity switching. Oh well, its not the end of the world, I'm more than happy with what I've achieved so far with it. Though I didn't get a chance this weekend to try welding aluminium again, maybe next weekend.

Hachille,
The suspension and hubs are of my own design. I decided to use VW Golf bearings, hubs and halfshafts as they are very inexpensive and readily available. I wish I had access to the proper 47 parts, but lack of money has prevented that. My car is a very loose replica of a 47. I've seen photos of your car on the fourm-auto.com Europa section, that's a very nice car you've got.

Rod

Good Morning Rod

It is possible to purchase parts on this site:
http://www.kelsport.net/parts/product_d ... ctionID=46
But in fact, it must be very expensive. And it's much more interresting to design and manufacture.
I would follow with pleasure the progress of your project.

Patrice

A few pics from yesterday, didn't get much done other than pressing some metalastik bushings into the rear wishbones:

I like it !

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American 7 5.0 T5
Lotus 15 ish?
914/H6

Seems a shame to cover that up with fiberglass! LOL

I also like.
What tire size did you choose?

C3 that's really kewl! how are you going to limit heat distortion when you finish weld the rear uprights? are youm planing on welding them yourself, or are you sending them out?

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The B-3 build log: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=13941 unfortunately, all the pictures were lost in the massive server crash

The beginnings of the Jag Special,
https://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=19012
Again, all pictures were lost.

Patrice,
I've fitted 185/70R13's, which are a bit wide, but I'm hoping will clear the front arches. I'm going to running a 2L Zetec, so I figured a slightly wider tire would help with the increase in power.

Robbovius,
Now that I have a better welder, I'll be welding them myself. I do have a chunk of brass that I'm going to turn down to the bearing size and fit it to the bearing holder before welding. I'm planning on remaking my jig to keep everything in place, along with trying to sort out a welding procedure. The provisional procedure is to weld all the 1/8" plate together, then weld them to the bearing holder, followed by the suspension pick-up points. I'm thinking that by welding them in this order I will maintain the correct locations for the important bits, and the brass slug will keep the bearing holder round. When I had it (bearing holder) machined it was bored .0015 under size, so I will be honing it slightly post welding. If its too loose, Loctite will be my friend.

John,
Yes it will be a shame to cover it up, but at least I'll know what it looks like in the nude.

Rod

Rod, I will be interested to see the results. welding distortion was a bit of an issue on the B-3 MOD 2 control arms. I dealt with it using a big hammer. kind of.

are the lotus front spindles triumph-type "ball-joint top and fine-thread trunnion bottom" units?

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The B-3 build log: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=13941 unfortunately, all the pictures were lost in the massive server crash

The beginnings of the Jag Special,
https://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=19012
Again, all pictures were lost.

Yes. I'm using Spitfire uprights, but the correct ones for the car are the Herald type (shares the same geometry but has a bolt on caliper bracket and a slightly different steering arm arrangement). But I wouldn't call the trunnion a fine thread, from what I've read its an ACME thread I've kept the front geometry as per the stock Lotus, but opted for tubular wishbones rather than pressed steel, which means I'm stuck with the trunnions. To me its not a big deal for this car as it's only going to be an occasional race car, but if I were building an all out racer I would have switched to a spherical bearing for the bottom end of the upright.