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PostPosted: April 16, 2020, 11:08 am 
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When my wife and I decided she was going to be working from home for some time and the idea of being in the hot bed of the Massachusetts outbreat of COVID-19, we decided to head back to our house in Wisconsin. Its just across the IL border but in the country amoung summer homes owned primarily by people in IL. So this time of the year there are few homes even occupied. We feel safer in that the population is about a10th of what was around us in MA.

When we go here, I proceeded to tackle my long awaiting "honey do" list for the house here. I finally got the "honey do" list whittled down. So I turned my hands toward my untouched project here, Its not my Locost, but an unfinished 427 Cobra kit I acquired back in 2014. The company had started out with a quality product. But it went thru several owners over time until it finally went out of business. The company made a hand laid fiberglass body with a heavy gel coat. They were also in the fiberglass boat business back then so the quality of the body was very good. The dimensions were increased, 3" wider in the cockpit and 6" longer wheelbase. This helps me fit in that I am 6'2"/215 lbs. The length shows in the door being longer. There has always been a discussion as to do the old Excalibur car company in Milwaukee use these bodies for their turn key cars. The design is very similar.
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I had not gotten around to finish it. It was Classic Roadsters 427 Cobra kit started in 1990. The 1st owner in the suburbs of Chicago acquired a complete kit and the complete drive train from a totaled 1990 Mustang HO GT. He seemed to be one of the lucky ones that got a "complete" kit shipped to him. Many horror stories abound over the subsequent purchasers not getting all of the parts shipped to them.

He assembled the frame using all new front suspension parts for a Mustang II. He installed the drivetrain and then started to mount the body. Once the body was sitting on the frame he discovered that using the EFI from the donor car created a problem with the hood not fitting over the taller intake runners. He then took the body back off and there sat the car foe some time in his garage unfinished.

He finally gave up on the project since factory support was now non-existent with its financial problems and he was an a atty by education. So he sold it to another guy in the Chicago area.

The 2nd owner was excited that what appeared to be the "hard part" was done. Plus he was getting a complete kit at a significant discount. What was not disclosed to him was the issue with the motor, as configured, being too tall for the hood to clear. The 2nd owner mounted the body (the manual was not bad and all the hardware and shim, spacers, sealant, etc. was there) and discovered the issue. Now the original company and its subsequent iterations were truly out of business. So the 2nd owner reached out to body shops that specialized in Corvettes and was shocked that they all wanted $7k-$10k to modify the hood and paint the car. Since he had his 1st kid going off to college and he had just purchased a fixer-upper home, he, as the 1st owner did, let the car sit in his garage. There is sat in a rather rustic, unheated, garage for several years. He determined that he was not going to get it completed. So he listed it on craigslist where I discovered it.

Having at one time lived in Milwaukee when Excalibur had been in business, I was drawn to the longer wheelbase where I could fit comfortably. I also was in the middle of major renovation of the WI home and living full time in downtown Chicago in a condo. So I knew I was acquiring a "future" project. And since the car had sat for so long in an unheated garage, I was worried about the condition of the engine. As anyone that has followed my experience on my MGB Locost build, an engine sitting in the cold without being protected can spell disaster! As a result I got an even bigger bargain then the 2nd owner.

So now I have had time to review the "go fast" parts and plan I had slowly built over the years. I took a close look at the fitment of the hood and saw that w/o major surgery there is no way the hood would clear the EFI system. But I was OK with modifying the hood since I wanted to add a Kenne Bell supercharger intake system that I had purchased some time back. It is almost 1 1/2" even taller. But adding 100HP to the motor was a good thing! It does add 30lbs to the motor weight, but well worth it IMHO. In fact, Kenne Bell is making the S/C for the new Shelby Mustangs!
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I figured the next job was to determine the condition of the motor. I dusted (got the heavy dust off) and proceeded to remove the intake and heads off to see what condition the block was in. To my total surprise the motor was "like new"! The original car must have had no miles on it when it was totaled. There is hardly even carbon stains on the exhaust runners in the heads. No ridge on the cylinders and clear cross hatch on the cylinders! What luck!
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So now I needed to assemble the parts amassed and mock up the fitment. First was the new Aluminum TFS Twisted Wedge heads with the Stage 2 porting I have had on the shelf since 2004. The also have the Crane Cams forged roller rockers & guides. I also had picked up on craigslist a set of new "Cobra" valve covers for the late model Windsor 5.0 Mustang. The will clear the roller rockers since they are taller then the stock covers plus the 1/2" taller rail height for the valve cover seat. These heads are 20lbs ea. lighter then the stock heads and really flow! On a stock motor w/o the porting they typically add 70 HP!

Next was the Extrude honed stock lower intake manifold. The ports are opened up to the size of the discharge of the supercharger and the intake runner size of the heads. It is really stealth in that it looks completely stock on the exterior. But it flows like the best of the aftermarket lower intakes!
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CR with Kenne Bell SC.JPG


I added a complete set of Aeromotive fuel rails and pressure regulator with steel braided fuel lines. Again a craigslist prize from a race car that had been totaled on a track.

Next came the supercharger. It fits with all of the parts.I initially used the stock heads and valve covers for a test fit. But since the front drive nose requires a support designed around the stock brackets for AC & power steering I knew I would need to do some fabrication in this area to support the mount.


One of the previous owner of the Cobra had taken off the original mounts to do away with the smog pump and AC/Power steering pumps. They used the simple March Alternator and serpentine tensioner mount combo. Sa I looked at the assembly I noticed the tensioner mount on the drivers side of the motor did not look right. I discovered he had miss-mounted it and only used 2 of the 3 pickup points on the water pump and head locations. I also noticed that it looked like the water pump may have lost its seals. So I ordered a new high flow pump and started to dig thru my "take off" parts that came with the car as well as the other parts from my past Ford projects.

I determined that if I reinstalled the original Alt mount it would allow the tensioner to be mounted back to its original position on that mount. I then used the March tensioner mount plate as a template for the mount points on the water pump. I had a piece of 1/4" Alum 6061 T6 for the plate. I cut out a carboard template for fitment and then transferred it to the alum plate. Using all three mount points I could now support the nose support plate on the supercharger.

Just a "guestimate" but I think with the extrude honed lower, new heads, S/C and collector headers and side pipes I will be north of 400HP. More than enough for a 2500lb car!

I will finish the plate today and reassemble the top end to finish the mock up.

Next will come figuring out how to modify the hood to clear it all.

More to come.

Thom


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PostPosted: April 16, 2020, 11:55 am 
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Location: Wilson, NY
Thom,
Very cool project, I will be following along with interest (like I was your other project).

Stay safe and healthy.

Regards,
Eric

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PostPosted: April 16, 2020, 9:55 pm 
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So today I finished the mount plate for the S/C. It will be the support that the folks at Kenne Bell told me the snout needs.
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I also had picked up an MSD distributor. Should allow more accurate ignition under pressure.
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I'm going to move the fuel pressure regulator to the other side to make room for the 80mm C&L MAS air meter. It is calibrated for the 40lb injectors I am installing.

I ordered a 94-95 Edelbrock elbow to lower the TB to clear the hood. Should be here in a couple of days.

I also ordered Mustang convertible motor mounts. That will lower the motor1.2"- 1". Plus I will remove the 2" of washers the last owner inserted at the trans cross member to lower it trying to improve the hood clearance problem. He must have not taken geometry in school! If the front motor mounts are centered in the middle of the block and you lower the tail of the trans by 2 1/2" it will raise the front of the motor to cause more interference with the hood!

Next I started surgery on the hood. I realized Classic Roadster had made the hood in two pieces, an inner and outer piece to add strength and give the inside of the hood a "finished" look. But it lowered the clearance from 1/2" to 3/4". I cut away the inner inner in the center of the hood. But it should not suffer, the glass is very thick, Just like a boat hull!
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But until I receive the new motor mounts and remount the trans cross mount, I still have a clearance problem of about 1 1/2".
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Not sure I will yet have enough room.

I will start tomorrow removing all of the mocked up top end to get ready to pull the short block and trans. I have a heavier duty T5Z trans from a Cobra Mustang to install along with a Quick Time scatter shield. The shield is "out of date" for racing but better then the stock bell housing to contain the clutch in case it decides to let loose and go thru the fiberglass trans tunnel and then thru my legs. Both were again craigslist purchases made over the years at incredibly low prices.

The T5Z handles an additional 50 ft/lbs of torque over the stock WC/T5. I think I will need it for the added S/C output.
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IMG_1072.JPG


The T5Z also came with a Steeda short throw shifter. It should make the shifts very quick!

All of you continue to stay safe and healthy!

Thom


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PostPosted: April 16, 2020, 10:00 pm 
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[quote="ohmite"]Thom,
Very cool project, I will be following along with interest (like I was your other project).

Thanks Eric! It is fun to finally get around to this project. But I do miss my Locost project! I just consider myself extremely lucky that I have both of these to help me keep my sanity during these times.

Thom

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PostPosted: April 17, 2020, 12:00 am 
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Joined: October 10, 2010, 10:26 am
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Location: Guadalupe, CA
This is an exciting build Thom... it is already requiring clever solutions that evaded the prior owners (which is sad when a roadblock derails a whole project).. So glad you've brought a Cobra to these pages 8) ...I also like reading about how the CL finds eventually make it into a build.. I'm always on an online treasure hunt for cheap stuff that I'll be able to use one day :wink:

Hopefully those mounts will set the motor that 1.5" lower needed to clear.. That hood seems really stout! If push comes to shove, you can get all of the clearance that's possible with the lowered motor mounts, and if the hood still won't clear, maybe you could cheat that hood bulge up the last .5" or so... if you don't tell anyone they'd probably never notice..

Keep us updated with lots of pics :cheers:

-ccrunner

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PostPosted: April 17, 2020, 7:53 am 
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Thanks ccrunner. I am thinking that if the motor mounts do not get the motor low enough I will look at cutting the scoop out and widen it. Its not that it is not tall enough to clear the motor. Its that the added height is not over the S/C housing on the driver's side. If I widen the scoop to 24" wide it will clear the S/C.

This body is not true to the original lines already. So modifying it further is not that big a deal. Most people are most familiar with the 427 SC body design, There were actually multiple designs. The original slab side, the 289 FIA, the 427 (street- no side pipes and slightly larger flairs then the 289 FIA) and the final 289 FIA. Plus many "one offs" as they developed the car over it life.
My Cobra replica
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CR 427 Cobra.jpg


My actual favorite is the Slab Side
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Shelby Cobra 427 street.jpg

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Carrol Shelby did have a couple of "EXTREME" examples of Cobras with modified hood scoops.
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Shelby's King Cobra.jpg


Super Snake- his personal car and the car Bill Cosby purchased and turned into a comedy skit-
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Bill-Cosby-Shelby-Cobra.jpg


Thom


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PostPosted: April 17, 2020, 9:40 am 
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Cool project! I love Cobra's and will be following along.

I built one on my own frame using C5 Vette suspension and drive train. Sacrilege I know. That's one reason why I built my Cheetah inspired build.

Be safe, John


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PostPosted: April 17, 2020, 11:02 am 
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[quote="stinger"]Cool project! I love Cobra's and will be following along.

I built one on my own frame using C5 Vette suspension and drive train. Sacrilege I know. That's one reason why I built my Cheetah inspired build.

I am a fan of that suspension. I came close to buying an Everett Morrison Cobra because it used the C4 Corvette suspension.

And I do like your build. Always liked the Cheetahs. Remember seeing a couple of them in Calif when I was growing up.

Thom

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PostPosted: April 21, 2020, 11:16 pm 
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I removed the motor/trans today to get the motor ready and swap the trans. T did try the new convertible motor mounts before I removed it. It only lowered the motor about 3/8". Will need to look at modifying the hood somehow since that was not even close to what I needed. If I drop it any lower I will have the oil pan hanging way down.

I took the Motor out as a separate unit
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Next came the trans
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Now I can clean up and paint the engine compartment
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I checked out the ID tag on the trans. Not a bad trans, but not the best choice.

ID
1352- Year Model Engine HP 1st 2nd 3rd 4th 5th R Speedo Input Shaft Input Shaft
Drive length Pilot Dia (in)

199 90-91 Mustang 5.0 300 3.35 1.99 1.33 1.00 0.68 3.15 8 7.18 0.668 (My Original Trans)
251 After Mustang 5.0 330 2.95 1.94 1.34 1.00 0.63 2.76 7 7.18 0.668 (T5-Z)

The T5Z has the best of everything. Hardened gears, short throw shifter, steel front bearing retainer, and tapered output shaft bearing. Best of all it has a torque rating of 330ft/lbs. This T-5 can handle up to 450 hp if not drag raced. And I like the higher gear ratios!

Thom


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PostPosted: April 22, 2020, 12:43 pm 
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Is there room to fab custom motor mounts to get that additional 1" motor drop you need? If so, you stated further lowering the motor will lower the oil pan too much... maybe you can channel an inch or so out of your oil existing pan and fab 'wings' into it to get your oil volume back? Or maybe there's an off-the-shelf hi-volume low-profile oil pan/pickup that would bolt up and clear your crossmember?

--ccrunner


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1972 Honda N600 Restomod "ccrunner's N600 VFR800 repower"

1963 Volvo P1800 Restomod
http://locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=16309

1959 Berkeley SE492 Restomod...
viewtopic.php?f=36&t=19397

"ccrunner's 1960 MGA coupe Restomod" found on MGExp.com


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PostPosted: April 22, 2020, 1:37 pm 
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The oil pan I have is very complex in its design. I am looking at how I might be able to modify the mounts. I have an empty block which makes it easier to take in and out for mockup.

Thom

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PostPosted: April 25, 2020, 7:47 am 
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Some good news, some bad news,

First the good, I assembled the rest of the top end. And I mounted the road race front sump Canton oil pan. Its design is great! It has traps for oil capture and a built in scraper/ oil slinger system. Not quite as good as one added to the crank but better than none!
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IMG_1092.JPG


Now the bad:

Discovered the S/C hits the top of the injectors w/o the electrical connectors even on! So I will add a 1/2" phenolic spacer. That makes my clearance problem worse but I will come up with a solution since I still had a problem with hitting the hood.

Next I spoke to Edelbrock about the intake elbow they make to fit their performance EFI intake in 94-95 Mustangs. I asked if the TB mound end would accept the earlier BBK 70mm TB (its their- TB they should know). He thought it would. So I ordered one. It has a completely different flange size and bolt pattern. Plus it will not fit with the taller valve covers, the flange for the EGR valve hits the valve cover- so the elbow goes back. So I will use the stock rubber elbow to get the 80mm C&L MAF meter down low to fit under the hood and tuck under the alternator.

Next it was time to start the trans. I cleaned up the Quick Time bell housing. It has a black satin finish. So I quickly scuffed it and resprayed it. While it dried I decided to compare its back plate to the original back plate to see how much more the bottom flange would hang down since it has a bolt pattern all the way around the housing to contain clutch. To my surprise the bolt pattern did not match up! The starter motor was in a different position as well. I had bought this years ago on craigslist because it was such a deal and just put it on the shelf. It turns out it is actually for a Ford Modular motor to use a T5, TKO or top loader trans. Anyone need a bell housing for their mod motor? It is in great condition, just SFI out of date.

Next I removed the stock alum bell housing cleaned it up to use on my T5Z. Well it turns out that the front snout support on the T5Z is a larger diameter then the other T5s! So now I have to figure out what bell housing I can use or do I go with the original 90 T5,

Thom


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PostPosted: April 25, 2020, 2:20 pm 
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I found a solution for my trans/bell housing. I feel a little stupid at this point. I was looking at the front shaft snout and discovered that it had a spacer ring on it. Had to pry a bit to get it off but it now fits perfect with the stock housing!
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IMG_1101.JPG


Next I will await the new longer pushrods and see what choices for the injectors so I can button up the motor and get the engine compartment ready to reinstall the engine/trans.

Thom


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PostPosted: April 30, 2020, 8:17 pm 
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Today I reinstalled the motor and trans. Normally it is very difficult to get them in as a unit. But years ago I purchased this 2 ton hoist and added the angle mount. It makes all the difference! Plus I have a 54" depth on the 1/2ton extension position.
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IMG_1118.JPG


Once the trans tail is in place I can start to slowly lower and scoot it into place.
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IMG_1119.JPG


Now I can reinstall the S/C, connect the electrical and fuel/water lines and exhaust. May soon be able to hear it run for the first time!

Thom


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PostPosted: May 1, 2020, 12:14 am 
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Wow Thom, I'll bet you had a shoe horn in your back pocket that you used to tweet the eng/trans install.
That's definitely an install where you take your time, good job!

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'If man built it, man can fix it'
"No one ever told me I couldn't do it."
"If you can't build it safe, don't build it."

Perry's Locost Super Che7enette Build
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