LocostUSA.com

Love the gas tank

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mobilito ergo sum
I drive therefore I am

I can explain it to you,
but I can't understand it for you.

Yeah, what he said! Please don't paint it!

JDK

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JD, father of Quinn, Son of a... Build Log
Quinn the Slotus:Ford 302 Powered, Mallock-Inspired, Tube Frame, Hillclimb Special
"Gonzo and friends: Last night must have been quite a night. Camelot moments, mechanical marvels, Rustoleum launches, flying squirrels, fru-fru tea cuppers, V8 envy, Ensure catch cans -- and it wasn't even a full moon." -- SeattleTom

Gas tank stays as is. Paid $45 for it and its about 20gal.

That VHT stuff is pretty good. The only places it's coming off of my headers is where rocks and dirt spray up from the front tires. I used it on the expansion chambers for my snowmobile too, and those get a bit too hot right out of the ports, but the rest is good.
Kristian

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V6 in a book frame build. Now registered.
viewtopic.php?f=35&t=7587
viewtopic.php?f=33&t=18172

Need some opinions!
The existing fuel line is a pressfitted hose that I've connected to (see pics). It sticks out awkwardly but I don't know of a way to change this. The fitting that holds the hose is a banjo that also is part of the fuel crossover. Any ideas how I can get rid of this OEM hose and run a hard line down my firewall???

Small victories... the intake and maf are done! Hope it's the right maf, anybody know if having a maf from a smaller Toyota engine would feed the wrong info to the ecu? I know temp and density readings are the same.

If you haven't come up with a solution yet, how about a compression fitting? What's the od of the metal tube and how long of a straight section do you have available? I use lots of Swagelok fittings at work, and a few have migrated to my car.
Kristian

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V6 in a book frame build. Now registered.
viewtopic.php?f=35&t=7587
viewtopic.php?f=33&t=18172

For your " pressfitted hose " If I understand what you are trying to do???
Cut of the crimped fitting and then braze or sliver solder a union on to the end of the tubing.
Dave W

I'm guessing that the pulsation damper thread size is either 12 or 14 mm. Use a 12 or 14mm banjo with either a 3/8" barb fitting or a -6 an fitting. Use these on both fuel rails. The Tee Banjo in the left bank rail is upstream of the pulsation damper, so use a Tee block on the firewall and run the fuel lines to each rail from there.
One source for the various banjos mentioned is ATPturbo.com

Or https://www.anplumbing.com/index.php

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Honey anyone?

Thanks guys, good advice

For y'all interested in the tank. An explosive propellant container held paper tubes of propellant about the size of this opening. I had to weld that door shut so I ground off the zinc coating and went to town. Most difficult welding I've ever done. The zinc on the back side instantly contaminates the weld. If you have to weld through zinc, manage your speed and heat to burn off the zinc and weld in some seriously ventilated space. Zinc is nasty!

Great site and hard to beat their prices.

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30 years old, not sure what I want to be when I grow up…

Throw some heat to it before hand if you find yourself welding it again.

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30 years old, not sure what I want to be when I grow up…

"Muriatic acid" from the hardware store will remove the zinc. It will also remove cadmium plating.

The fumes are pretty nasty, so you'd want to do it outside.