LocostUSA.com

Look at Kurt's Midlana - it is pretty 7-like despite the mid engine and you wouldn't have to mess about with changing structure. Plans aren't free, but a hundred bucks for Kurt's book/plans is in the noise in the big scheme of things. I think there was a mid-engine variant of car 9 too, but it wasn't developed fully.

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Warren
Isuzu Pickup/SR20DE, +401 COLD frame
Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=11601

I vote for being the first guy to build a Car9 midi.

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30 years old, not sure what I want to be when I grow up…

Okay I heard back from my lowes guy and the only engineered joists he can get are 9-1/2 inches tall and 2 dollars a foot so I don't see that happening. I might just rip some plywood on the table saw and make my own.
I think I am overthinking the build table a bit but if I make a frame that the build table sits on then as the build progresses the table top can be removed and the chassis will sit on the frame???????
Back to sketchup for a day or two.

I used steel studs from Home depot. They aren't really strong but seem to work. I can squeeze the top and bottom layers of the table top together a little bit. On the other hand it seems to hold my frame, my 302 engine and I can walk on it too. My table sits on cement blocks under the corners and also under the motor. I wanted something better, but in the end opted to make something I could take apart afterward. I just have too much stuff in the garage already right now.

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Marcus Barrow - Car9 an open design community supported sports car for home builders!
SketchUp collection for LocostUSA: "Dream it, Build it, Drive it!"
Car9 Roadster information - models, drawings, resources etc.

IMHO, concrete blocks make great table legs, as long as you have shims.

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My PRIMARY build log: http://www.midlana.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=678
For the best detail and discussion, see this log!

My LocostUSA build log: http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17917
A good snapshot of my progress. The LITE edition!

Too much time spent working on other things but I now at least have the build table built. It's a little high at 38-3/4" but I can always wear my 70's platform shoes when in the shop.
I used 3/4 mdf for the top and the verticals with 1/2 " plywood for the bottom. everything is dead nuts level and glued and screwed except for the bottom which was glued and brad nailed.
I built it in two sections so after the main frame is done I can remove the box section and use the lumber to support the car during finishing.
Oh by the way has anyone seen my cell phone??? Cant find it now

BTW, I live in Louisville....

Tim

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Geek49203 aka
Tim Wohlford
Louisville, KY
Hayes front, S10 +2 rear, Lalo body.

I have ordered Kurts midlana book and am going that route. I will be posting my progress (or lack of) in both this forum and the midlana forum. As of now it is all about getting the shop cleaned and organized so there will be room to work. I recently purchased a plasma cutter and would very much like to make it cnc. That would be very handy for all my projects.
Dave

UPDATE
It has been about a year since I got the table built but now I am back on track. My day job has ended but the GOV is sending me back to school to learn a new trade. Yeah right.
I have new shop toys to make it all go better and the donor car still runs better then ever.

new shop toys

Dang! Someday we gotta do coffee... I'm in Louisville.

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Geek49203 aka
Tim Wohlford
Louisville, KY
Hayes front, S10 +2 rear, Lalo body.

Sounds good,
The mill is actually up and running and now has a three axis dro installed because I still dont have the factory leadscrew from the previous owner. I had to make my own.
Dave

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Honey anyone?

Yay, he's back!

Now get to work!

(nice machinery scores, too...)

You made a lead screw? I'm impressed. Was you old day job a machinist?

Tom

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Sometimes, I'm as confused as a baby in a topless bar.

My short term memory is absolutely horrible and so is my short term memory.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sG16m2e4O6I