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PostPosted: July 18, 2018, 4:22 pm 
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Raccoonman wrote:
Absolutely interesting builds. I've seen the cars at the SOLO events in North Chuck but I've never bothered to stop and watch. My build is going to be too heavy for such antics, I fear......

Never too heavy, just possibly too little power.
There is a guy who comes to the North Chuck event that Solos in a 1959 Edsel.

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OOPS I did it again
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=17496

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PostPosted: July 23, 2018, 1:26 pm 
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Location: That point where the humidity and the temperature combine forces to destroy all that is good
Edsel, eh? Hmmmmmmm..... I wonder what the new dynamics are on the Patrick, against what it used to be..... I used to drive a '59 Galaxie with a 390 4v.....

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PostPosted: July 23, 2018, 2:19 pm 
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I've always said it's more fun to drive a slow car fast than it is to drive a fast car slow.
I'd be willing to bet that a Jag Six will drag a Locost-ish car around pretty quickly. Limiting factor is more likely the driver than the car. I don't mean that as an insult to your driving skills, just that in a new car, there will be a bit of a learning curve. (Ask me how I know...)

Run what ya brung, have fun, don't worry about setting any new class records or anything... Yet! :mrgreen:

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PostPosted: July 24, 2018, 8:26 am 
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Absolutely right JD. I was faster in tetanus with a 40 year old clapped out Toyota 4 banger than I was in either the R1 powered Locost or the SR20 beast. I didn't have the requisite skill set for the more powerful motors, but I could drive a momentum car.

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OOPS I did it again
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=17496

Blood Sweat and Beers
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=15216


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PostPosted: July 26, 2018, 2:43 pm 
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Location: That point where the humidity and the temperature combine forces to destroy all that is good
Uncle sent me to a -crash- course in defensive driving while I was in the Navy; tossing 4k lb cars around is a lot of fun when your name isn't on the registration

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PostPosted: May 9, 2019, 1:40 pm 
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The A Mod Take Two is about to go through renovations 3.0 as soon as the garage is finished.
The Honda diff left a lot to be desired. It was better than a spool, but I suffered a lot from one wheel peel... Right up until one of the spider gears decided to give up the ghost.

Plans for this time around are to put in a complete car diff / rear end instead of pulling a carrier out of the case and dealing with all the grit from autocross.

I picked up a Miata limited slip diff, axles, hubs and brakes. He didn't have the control arms or the subframe.
So I plan to cut the back half off the car
Rotate the Honda CBR600 so the output shaft is facing rearward
Build or buy a guibo for one end or the other, whichever is easier
build a short driveshaft
Build a frame around the diff using stock pickup points and the forward brace point where it bolts to the PPF

Here's my question for you guys...
Anyone have drawings handy or dimensions that replicate (roughly) the stock rear upper and lower control arms for NA Miata?


I'll rebuild the back of the car to use stock Miata pickup points and have a cradle for the CBR.

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OOPS I did it again
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=17496

Blood Sweat and Beers
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=15216


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PostPosted: May 9, 2019, 3:43 pm 
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Somewhere in my travels I found 3D files for the front and rear suspension on the Miatas. I don't recall what evolution of Miata they're from, but I can create some PDFs with dimensions if you want.

Rod


Attachments:
File comment: Miata Rear Arms
Miata Rear Control Arms.jpg
Miata Rear Control Arms.jpg [ 186.88 KiB | Viewed 1875 times ]


Last edited by cs3tcr on May 9, 2019, 3:56 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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PostPosted: May 9, 2019, 3:55 pm 
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cs3tcr wrote:
Somewhere in my travels I found 3D files for the front and rear suspension on the Miatas. I don't recall what evolution of Miata they're from, but I can create some PFS with dimensions if you want.

Rod


That would be fantastic. Thanks!

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OOPS I did it again
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=17496

Blood Sweat and Beers
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=15216


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PostPosted: May 9, 2019, 3:58 pm 
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I've added a jpeg to my original post. It's quick and dirty, but should give you the needed dimensions. If you want, I can also get you the inner pickup point locations relative to the uprights.

Also, the dimensions are in millimetres.


Attachments:
Miata Rear Suspension.jpg
Miata Rear Suspension.jpg [ 226.71 KiB | Viewed 1852 times ]
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PostPosted: August 7, 2019, 10:25 am 
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The time has come for A Mod 3.0
I need to do this rework to knock the rust off my fabrication skill set before I get to work on the SV project I brought home from Michigan.

I think all of the needed parts are here.
I have the Miata viscous LSD, axles, uprights, brakes, and driveshaft.
Lots of extra steel came with the SV project.
There's a Hawk adapter somewhere in my piles of BEC related stuff in the storage building.

Last night I headed out to the garage and started taking her apart again.
Attachment:
apart again small.jpg
apart again small.jpg [ 49.15 KiB | Viewed 1574 times ]


Rear end came apart easily thanks to some planning for serviceability during the last makeover.
Fluids drained, electrical disconnected, headers off, motor mount bolts out...
Engine is ready to pull and sit on the build table with the Miata bits.

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Too much week, not enough weekend.

OOPS I did it again
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=17496

Blood Sweat and Beers
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=15216


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PostPosted: August 10, 2019, 5:59 am 
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Not much point to having a driveshaft when you can't run much of an angle in so short a distance.
You could run two companion flanges with a single ujoint at zero degrees so no rotation/wear in the cups or machine an adapter that runs true off the concentric rings in the pinion and hawk flanges.

To ensure the pinion and output stay supported and aligned, I would solid mount the diff and engine to a cradle/subframe that bolts to the car and includes the rear suspension. A way to fine adjust the pinion angle with bolt threads and jamb nuts would make things easier too (like a threaded shank clevis/jack screw). The attachment to the chassis can be four, 2 inch round or square pads with a 1/4 uhmw shim between that you can replace with rubber later if you find vibes harsh and not throw anything off.

The sv was a great deal.What happened to the unibody locost?

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PostPosted: August 15, 2019, 6:53 am 
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I guess Toobusy has been too busy to reply. Unibody is not accurate. I was referring to the centaur with the sheetmetal frame versus traditional. I see that it was sold. Hard to keep track of all these toys!

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PostPosted: August 19, 2019, 9:32 am 
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Sorry, I was on vacation last week. I never turned on the computer.
The Centaur headed to Florida a few years ago. Last I heard she was tooling around Tampa / Orlando with nothing changed.

This iteration of the A Mod I can either offset the engine to the left or the diff to the right if I want a perfectly straight driveshaft. in reality, I'm likely to do a little both of both and still have some misalignment between the Hawk adapter and the pinion in X and Z. It will be a good bit easier to address / eliminate the Z misalignment than the X.

The Diff carrier will be a bolt in to the frame using the ears and the front pinion brace where the PPF bolts on. But control are mounts will be integral to the frame and welded in place.

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Too much week, not enough weekend.

OOPS I did it again
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=17496

Blood Sweat and Beers
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=15216


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PostPosted: August 22, 2019, 9:18 am 
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This past Sunday I got a couple of hours out in the garage after Church and lunch with Wifey Dearest.
There were still a few bits of the back half of the chassis that needed to come off and I wanted to re-use the rear suspension pieces I built during version 2.0 if I could.

There is plenty of steel on hand that came with the SV, plus I was chomping at the bit to play with the welders after too long of a hiatus.

So my afternoon went like this:
Cut
Grind
Grind
Grind
stop and look, think about what next
dangle engine in place
rest diff on stack of wood blocks
stop and look

fiddle with spacing
tack weld

Attachment:
rear mock up.jpg
rear mock up.jpg [ 288.77 KiB | Viewed 1310 times ]


Now I need to make a couple of decisions.
1. Do I offset the engine left of center to reduce driveshaft angle?
2. Do I offset diff right of center to further reduce driveshaft angle?
3. Do I do both and create a funny looking compromise to get weight as close to balanced left / right as possible?

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Too much week, not enough weekend.

OOPS I did it again
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=17496

Blood Sweat and Beers
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=15216


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PostPosted: August 22, 2019, 12:10 pm 
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Tommy, I'd first ask if you have any plans for camber gain in the rear suspension geometry. If you do and you offset the diff, there will be different reactions in LH and RH turns. If no camber gain, then I would try to optimize balance by combining offset the engine and diff. This would minimize the driveshaft offset while keeping left and right turns reacting the same and keeping the brakes balanced.

Alternatively you could offset the engine while keeping the diff centered and driveshaft straight then adjust weight balance with coilovers. I am too much of a novice to know how well that would work out dynamically.

Without knowing any other constraints, this is what I would try to do.

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