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PostPosted: July 18, 2019, 11:11 am 
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Good on ya for sticking to that thread repair, Perry. Most people would get stuck on that one.

There'd be no reason to suspect left hand threads on the rear pipe, but I think that the only thing you didn't try. So, that's a cooling circuit in the transmission? The only thing I wonder is where the shavings went from drilling and tapping?

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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PostPosted: July 18, 2019, 11:35 am 
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I wonder is where the shavings went from drilling and tapping?
I can't speak for Perry (and who could, really? :mrgreen: ) but whenever I'm drilling something like that, I have the drill in one hand and the shop vac in the other. Or I drill while TWWTFM or Earl holds the vac. Slow and easy helps, too... :mrgreen:

:cheers:
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"Gonzo and friends: Last night must have been quite a night. Camelot moments, mechanical marvels, Rustoleum launches, flying squirrels, fru-fru tea cuppers, V8 envy, Ensure catch cans -- and it wasn't even a full moon." -- SeattleTom


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PostPosted: July 18, 2019, 1:05 pm 
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Nice job Perry. There is a whole lot more to working on a car than simple parts swapping, especially on very old cars. It takes expertise. Expertise is learned by making a lot of mistakes. Now aren't you glad you made all those mistakes earlier in life? :cheers:

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PostPosted: July 19, 2019, 4:45 am 
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Lonnie-S wrote:
The only thing I wonder is where the shavings went from drilling and tapping?

Very good question, I use expandable foam ear plugs, cut to whatever size be needed, carefully placed inside the oil passage (with a note made to remove when finished). Then I can drill and tap to my hearts desire and even use a blow gun to clean the passage. Once done I use a pick and remove the ear plug. Yes Lonnie, these ports are where you hook up the oil lines that go to the transmission cooler, whether the cooler is integral in the rad or a stand alone which I'll be using because this rad has no trans cooler in it.
GonzoRacer wrote:
Slow and easy helps, too...

Wifey been telling me that for years :rofl:
rx7locost wrote:
Now aren't you glad you made all those mistakes earlier in life?

Absolutely correct, now if we can just figure out a way to become younger each time we don't make a mistake.


Turned out an aluminum plug with o-ring to seal the speedo gear hole. Fabbed up a retainer for it. Couple of pics.


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"No one ever told me I couldn't do it."
"If you can't build it safe, don't build it."

Perry's Locost Super Che7enette Build
Perry's TBird Based 5.0L Super 7 L.S.O
Perry's S10 Super 7 The 3rd
Perry's 4th Build The Topolino 500 (Little Mouse) Altered
Perry's 5th Build the Super Slant 6 Super 7
Perry's Final Build the 1929 Mercedes Gazelle


Last edited by horchoha on December 11, 2019, 11:23 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: July 19, 2019, 9:35 am 
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Thanks for that info, Perry.

Great job on that plug. That's a much more sophisticated approach that I would have done, which likely would have been a flat plate with a gasket. I like your solution a whole lot better.

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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PostPosted: July 20, 2019, 12:26 am 
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Pulled the intake, exhaust, and head off to install new gaskets. I had these off last year when checking out the engine. I had it running on the engine stand, couldn't smell any oil burning so I'm going to take a chance on it until I can prove the build will be successful. If it burns oil I will rebuild it then. For now just a de-carbon and new head, intake, and exhaust gaskets. Spent a couple three hours cleaning the gunk from the block.
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Anybody out there old enough to remember using oil on metal to metal contact (when no gasket is used) on the exhaust manifold? I did this on the ex/int mating surface, the oil will burn and seal the mating surface.
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IMG_5179.jpg

Starting to put pieces back on the engine.
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Perry

'If man built it, man can fix it'
"No one ever told me I couldn't do it."
"If you can't build it safe, don't build it."

Perry's Locost Super Che7enette Build
Perry's TBird Based 5.0L Super 7 L.S.O
Perry's S10 Super 7 The 3rd
Perry's 4th Build The Topolino 500 (Little Mouse) Altered
Perry's 5th Build the Super Slant 6 Super 7
Perry's Final Build the 1929 Mercedes Gazelle


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PostPosted: July 20, 2019, 5:37 am 
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Mighty fine lookin' engine ya got there, Perry! Well done, Sir!

I don't know the "oil as a gasket" trick you're talking about. So, you just put regular old motor oil on the mating surfaces between the head and the exhaust manifold? Weird... But it works?

:cheers:
JDK

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Quinn the Slotus:Ford 302 Powered, Mallock-Inspired, Tube Frame, Hillclimb Special
"Gonzo and friends: Last night must have been quite a night. Camelot moments, mechanical marvels, Rustoleum launches, flying squirrels, fru-fru tea cuppers, V8 envy, Ensure catch cans -- and it wasn't even a full moon." -- SeattleTom


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PostPosted: July 20, 2019, 8:32 am 
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^ what JD said x2.

I gotta look up that oil trick. I never heard of it before either. In the 50's, my uncle would apply used motor oil to chapped cow's teats. He claimed it worked better then the store bought stuff to heal them. Years later, I learned how Vaseline (petroleum jelly) was found and then developed into a product. Maybe he wasn't so stupid after all.

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“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766


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PostPosted: July 20, 2019, 8:31 pm 
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Yeah we used that oil method in the fleet shop a lot when mating cast manifolds to the head. I'm at a loss to remember which auto maker (Dodge, Ford, or Chev) it was that used no exhaust manifold gasket back in the 80's.
Adding to that, you know you're old when........
Attachment:
IMG_5186.jpg

you still have a pail of carb cleaner in the shop :lol:


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Perry

'If man built it, man can fix it'
"No one ever told me I couldn't do it."
"If you can't build it safe, don't build it."

Perry's Locost Super Che7enette Build
Perry's TBird Based 5.0L Super 7 L.S.O
Perry's S10 Super 7 The 3rd
Perry's 4th Build The Topolino 500 (Little Mouse) Altered
Perry's 5th Build the Super Slant 6 Super 7
Perry's Final Build the 1929 Mercedes Gazelle


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PostPosted: July 21, 2019, 10:28 am 
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Perry
If the oil trick does not work, then try Fel-Pro C5-a Hi-temp anti-seize. It's like the matl. that sets at the bottom of an aluminum paint can and is as thick as clay. It is typically used on boiler fittings. The best thing since sliced bread to seal header leaks. Davew


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PostPosted: July 21, 2019, 10:55 am 
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Thanks for that info Dave, I squirrelled that away for future reference.
Rebuilt the carb, engine is just about ready to set aside. Way back in 1969 this engine appeared to have a draft tube coming off the valve cover, as near as I can see from whatever pics that are on the net.
I've decided to use a catch can instead. Will route hose from VC to catch can then from catch can to air cleaner housing.
So I made a fitting to fit the air cleaner housing from some aluminum. Seals with an o-ring on the backside and secured with a c clip on the outside.
Some pics.


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Perry

'If man built it, man can fix it'
"No one ever told me I couldn't do it."
"If you can't build it safe, don't build it."

Perry's Locost Super Che7enette Build
Perry's TBird Based 5.0L Super 7 L.S.O
Perry's S10 Super 7 The 3rd
Perry's 4th Build The Topolino 500 (Little Mouse) Altered
Perry's 5th Build the Super Slant 6 Super 7
Perry's Final Build the 1929 Mercedes Gazelle


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PostPosted: July 26, 2019, 6:39 am 
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Routed the ebrake cable system and welded pieces on frame where needed. Welded up pieces on frame that were previously tacked.
Checked frame over for any missed welding.
Brought in the sand blasting booth frame and set up. Attached 6 mil poly to frame. Attached the hooka air filter system.
Some pics.
Attachment:
IMG_5214.jpg

Attachment:
IMG_5216.jpg

Attachment:
IMG_5217.jpg

Attachment:
IMG_5218.jpg


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Perry

'If man built it, man can fix it'
"No one ever told me I couldn't do it."
"If you can't build it safe, don't build it."

Perry's Locost Super Che7enette Build
Perry's TBird Based 5.0L Super 7 L.S.O
Perry's S10 Super 7 The 3rd
Perry's 4th Build The Topolino 500 (Little Mouse) Altered
Perry's 5th Build the Super Slant 6 Super 7
Perry's Final Build the 1929 Mercedes Gazelle


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PostPosted: July 26, 2019, 10:27 am 
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I wonder how much better it would run if the intake manifold wasn't bolted to the exhaust manifold like a heat sink.

And then the carb on top of it all, i would be a nervous wreck

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PostPosted: July 26, 2019, 11:06 am 
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terryjr wrote:
I wonder how much better it would run if the intake manifold wasn't bolted to the exhaust manifold like a heat sink.

And then the carb on top of it all, i would be a nervous wreck


Actually lots of cars with carbs use exhaust heat to keep the carb base warm because we all know what happens to an unheated carb when the dew point is just right :BH:

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Perry

'If man built it, man can fix it'
"No one ever told me I couldn't do it."
"If you can't build it safe, don't build it."

Perry's Locost Super Che7enette Build
Perry's TBird Based 5.0L Super 7 L.S.O
Perry's S10 Super 7 The 3rd
Perry's 4th Build The Topolino 500 (Little Mouse) Altered
Perry's 5th Build the Super Slant 6 Super 7
Perry's Final Build the 1929 Mercedes Gazelle


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PostPosted: July 26, 2019, 12:49 pm 
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terryjr wrote:
I wonder how much better it would run if the intake manifold wasn't bolted to the exhaust manifold like a heat sink.

And then the carb on top of it all, i would be a nervous wreck


Not all engines are cross flows.


horchoa wrote:
Actually lots of cars with carbs use exhaust heat to keep the carb base warm because we all know what happens to an unheated carb when the dew point is just right
That exhaust manifold heating the fuel bowl was good to help atomize the fuel. However the addition of alcohol in gas now lowers the boiling point and can, sometimes, cause a lean mixture in hot weather.

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Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766


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