LocostUSA.com

You are right. I am a mere amateur at this bodywork stuff. There was a fair amount of trepidation during the process. I definitely can't complain about the end result on this job.

_________________
Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

I picked up some welding gas and more MIG wire. after a couple of days, I got back out to the garage. It took about 5 hours today to get the garage up to my comfort zone; small electric heater! I finished up welding the driver's side trumpet. The aftermarket trumpet did not fit well. A lot of tweaking was needed, but it sure beat trying to make it from scratch. I also added the br@cket (JD RIP) that the fender inner splash panel mounts to. That too took a bit of fettling, but not too bad.

I then moved on to finish up the trumpet on the passenger side. Rust converter was brushed on the inside of the mating piece a few days ago, but it hadn't dried/converted in the 35 degree F garage, so I got out the hot air gun and let it run for about 15 minutes. That did the trick. I also primed the inside section of the trumpet. Cut out a small section of rust on the inner fender, cut a matching piece of fresh metal and welded it in place. In order to cut that section out. I had to cut the engine bay bonnet rail out. All is well since it was rusted away too. I tacked in a new piece and called it a day.

Next up is the finish welding of the bonnet rail and the installation of the previously fabbed top section of the pass side trumpet.

I actually feel like I'm making some progress.

_________________
Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

Looks good! I try to put my hands on at least one project every week. Not possible, but I try.

After I bought and broke my third hoe handle (in as many years) where the wood meets the metal, I fabbed a sleeve with pinch bolts that the handle slides into by 3-4 inches. Now it works with my obviously incorrect technique of hoe-mattocking. DONE! One less project.

Bought a used home depot stump grinder, sharpened the teeth, and went to town. Hard work but good exercise.

Made a sapling/stump puller with a farm jack, 2x4 and threaded rod. Proceed to stretch and snap my 1/4 link grade 30 chain with too large a stump. Found 5/16 grade 70 for $2/foot at HD so I asked my wife to pickup a few feet so next time, I can break something more expensive.

The employee tried cutting it like they do everything else. They pump to cut then pump more to spread the link but he didn't pump enough to spread the link. He decided to flip the link over to cut the other side and it sounded like a gun going off, echoing through the store and launching the cut end. Now they know why you follow the instructions!

Water has been getting into the back of my wifes mazda 323 that about 30 years old now. Shoe parked it long enough for me to address the issue. I found the tail lights had water in them. Pulled the lights, put them in the oven for 10 min at 150 and pulled the lenses. The butyl as dirty as in not sealing at all around the top. She picked up a roll of butyl tape at HD for $5. I doubled up strips and rolled them into cord to fill the gap then put them back together, better than new. The old buytl was rock hard and brittle at room temp but at 150 it was like freshly chewed bubble gum and came out easily with a screwdriver tip. Another project done.

Cut back my favorite fig tree (petite negri) and rooted the scions in moss. Some are now potted up leafing under utility lights. Another project kinda done.

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Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12

I thought I'd show some of the removed rusted sections that have been replaced in this area.

Passenger side trumpet is finished.

I also welded up several holes that will not be used.

Quite a while back I removed the hood shut panel as it was fairly bent up. That was repaired back then but never replaced. Today I got around to reinstalling this piece. I thought I’d show my method of plug welding where spot welds were drilled thru both pieces of metal.
A common method to fill holes is to place a piece of copper behind the hole and MIG weld. This serves 2 purposes. First is to limit the weld blob on the back side of the hole. The other is to control some of the heat in the metal being welded. Not ever mentioned, but I have learned is that brass and aluminum also work the same. The weld deposited does not adhere to these materials.

Sometimes getting a piece of brass the right size, or getting it to stay in place is challenging. I have several blocks of brass that I have used in the past by clamping them behind where I am welding. In my current case, my clamps were either too small or too large to fit. Nothing seemed to fit well in this area and leave me room to actually weld. I took 2 pieces and stacked them one on top of the other. I used a 3rd piece to back up the first 2 and held that in place with a magnet on the shut panel. It seemed to work out pretty well. This is the first time I have used a magnet to hold them in place. There is a commercially available device that does this job fairly well is that I have tried before. Even that has some application limitations.

_________________
Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

Chuck, I'm trying really hard to buy a driver quality MGB GT right now. Facebook seller seems to be a whack job based on responses so far.

At this point I've only seen pics and struggling to arrange a viewing time.
This might not be the one...

_________________
Too much week, not enough weekend.

OOPS I did it again
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=17496

Blood Sweat and Beers
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=15216

Tommy, Tommy, Tommy! Haven't you got enough projects?

What year? Should be a chrome bumper car since very few rubber bumper GT's were made. Rust, rust and rust are the 3 biggest things to look for. As if this build log isn't a clue. If there is anything I can do, just ask.

_________________
Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

The friend that gave me his 74 MGB motor & trans for my project is using a Chevy Camaro 3.4 V6/T5 in his B as he does similar rust rebuild to his car.

About 15 yrs ago I drove a B with a Camaro 2.8/T5 conversion. It needed details finished to get the car really nice, but I was impressed with the character change in the car. It was very nimble and revved quickly! Can't help but think the later 3800 motor would be even better.

I have always wanted to swap in a SBF into an MGB-GT. Add some width to the fenders for larger rubber. upgraded seating and a T5 trans. If you replace the steel heads and intake with aluminum heads and intake. you have a V8 coming in at 405 lbs! That is the same weight as an original MGB motor. And the T5 trans is only 15 lbs heavier than the original MGB trans.

Thom

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Thom

I'm always on the hunt for the next in line.
It's a 1970 with split rear bumper. I had a 70 B, so this would be a nice compliment.
My concerns in no particular order
Recent repaint - good and bad as I have no idea if it's steel or mud. My gut tells me it's mud
Hasn't been registered in over a decade, but "runs and drives" per the seller
Seller seems to be a whack job. Very sporadic responding to messages, still won't agree to a time for me to look it over.
It was her father's project and he recently passed. She knows nothing about it.
Quite a few missing small bits. Seller says "I'm sure it's all here" but can't provide any parts pics
And the deal breaker for me... Open title. Her father bought it and never transferred the title or even had it notarized.

_________________
Too much week, not enough weekend.

OOPS I did it again
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=17496

Blood Sweat and Beers
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=15216

ccrunner (Tommy),
If it were me, I’d walk (no run) away, even if it was offered at a significantly discounted cost.

There are so many others out there that are available (e.g., https://www.mgexp.com/registry/forsale. ... rtdir=desc ). I’d sell you my ‘77, but it’s a roadster and rubber bumpered (even deliver it for the adventure ).
Regards,
Eric

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MGiata current build here: https://www.mgexp.com/forum/mga-forum.2 ... n.3898051/

It looks like you would be going the bonded title route. I've never done that. I think it commits you to >3 yrs of ownership before you can get a real title and sell. I would check with the state that the title is from to see if it is at least a clean title. Unless this is a great deal, in which case I would give the seller a 3 day response time, look elsewhere. You don't seem to be averse to traveling a distance for a good prospect. There are some around. A GT will be warm in the SC Summers

_________________
Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

I'm in NC now and not opposed to dropping some money on a vintage air setup. Also not opposed to swapping in Miata power and AC...
Asking price on the car is $2500
In pictures the paint looks good, but no idea what is hiding underneath
panel gaps look good
hatch area looks good. again, might be steel, might be mud.
most trim is there. only missing trim piece looks like headlight bezel
no obvious wiring rats nests That just means they're hidden
Dash looks good
Carpets intact
seats have split seams and driver / passenger seats swapped sides.

If not for the title issue I'd buy it today.

_________________
Too much week, not enough weekend.

OOPS I did it again
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=17496

Blood Sweat and Beers
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=15216

Your plan sounds eerily familiar. One plan that I originally had was to swap in the Miata drivetrain and suspension. Even up North, I was always planning on A/C. I had an MGA coupe about 20 years ago. Even then, at my younger age, the heat was unbelievable. The MGB-GT has so much more window area for sun heating.

I hope you get the GT you want. We need another MGB-GT build here.



More work on the MG continues out in the garage. There is not much to photograph. I am prepping for the installation of the floors. I finishing up welding previously installed partially welded parts, plug welding some screw holes, etc. Part of that prep includes removing the remaining tar undercoating in the driveshaft tunnel. I am using a propane torch to soften it and a putty knife to scrape it off. Then I follow with mineral spirits to wash off the remainder.

Last night I searched for economical sound deadening. Looks like I will be using aluminum lined roof sealing tape or some such variant thereof. supposed to be the same results as the name brand stuff.

_________________
Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

98% of the undercoating has been removed. I have started to grind down the 2 repaints (and their primer coats) plus the various bondo and lead, yeah I said lead, repairs done over the years. This allows me to get to bare metal and see what needs to be addressed. The driver's door had some repairs done as had the passenger door.

I had a fairly good DS front fender from the parted out '73 that had no rust damage. I cut out the damaged area near the side marker lights. cut out a good piece from the '69 fender and welded it in place. It turns out that the turn signal location was moved about 3/16" between '69 and '73. So that was cut out and swapped with the signal mount from the '69 welded into place. That DS fender is ready for finishing.

The PS fender was another matter. This one will need the normal rust repair to the lower section. Before I do that, I am addressing several other repairs. First up was the headlight mount. In this car, there is a steel reinforcement spot welded behind the opening. This was too rusty to repair so it had to be fabricated. This took(is taking) a lot of time. I am learning patience along the way. The basic shape is formed and ready for some hole location, drilling and welding bak into place. This will wait for a bit.

This car had accident damage across the front. THe hood was replaced somewhere over time. The shut panel was already discussed and repaired. The front edge of the PS fender had some damage too. There was bondo and some leading in this area, both now removed I think the leading may be factory applied. This exposed the damage. Cracked metal across the top and really crunched metal at a corner. the cracked metal was cut open with a cutoff wheel, then welded closed. A bit of panel beating took it back close to original shape. I tired to reform the corner but decided it would not work. I ended up cutting it completely off and will fabricat some patch panels for that repair.

Pics and more later. I got to go out and R&R front struts on Wifey's car.

_________________
Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

Pics as promised.

Found a dent and crack above headlight mount. Also the headlight bucket reinforcement was rusty beyond repair

Removed rust reinforcement and began hand forming its replacement.

Drilled out the required holes, added 4 weld nuts and then welded into place on the fender. The crack and dent have been repaired. This part is declared done.

Grill surround corner was found crushed in affecting 4 surfaces

Dent was stripped and the factory leading removed. Decided that it could not be repaired so I cut it out. The first repair piece has been tacked into place.

_________________
Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

Oh no you don't Chuck, you're not getting off that easy.
How did you proceed to make the lip on this part, it looks great.
Did you fab up a hammer form?

_________________
Perry

'If man built it, man can fix it'
"No one ever told me I couldn't do it."
"If you can't build it safe, don't build it."

Perry's Locost Super Che7enette Build
Perry's TBird Based 5.0L Super 7 L.S.O
Perry's S10 Super 7 The 3rd
Perry's 4th Build The Topolino 500 (Little Mouse) Altered
Perry's 5th Build the Super Slant 6 Super 7
Perry's Final Build the 1929 Mercedes Gazelle