LocostUSA.com

Is the gas pedal "fly by wire" or mechanical?

That's nice work on all that you just posted, I should add.

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886

Lonnie, the gas pedal is mechanical via a cable. I need to ensure that the pedal location ends up close to the original location, the amount of throw is enough to fully open the throttle body, to not be too sensitive and to not run into the body modifications that I made earlier for engine installation. Sounds relatively easy until the constraints get tighter and tighter. I will prevail........

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Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

I feel like I'm on a roll. I did some seam sealing in the boot area and gave it another coat of Rust Encapsulator. Thats all for now. it will get finished with bed liner much later on.

I next worked on the gas pedal. I got into this issue when I decided to cut, cut, cut the trans tunnel where it meets the foot well in the engine compartment for clearance of the ear on the transmission itself. In hindsight, I should have cut the ear off the trans. Hindsight is 20/20, if we are lucky.

That move eliminated the OEM pivot of the gas pedal. I had to reconstruct that in a different manner. The notched corner required that I move the location rearward just under 2 inches. The ferrule that the throttle cable goes thru had to be rotated 90 degrees in order to move it that far. I ended up cutting a section out and replacing it with new because there were too many welded nuts from the OEM mount getting in the way.

I have it in place now with barely enough space to run the pedal shaft between the lower steering column mount and the trans wall.

Moving the entire mechanism had a drawback, without any further modifications, the gas pedal is now moved that 2 inches rearward toward the driver.

I attacked this problem and made some geometric adjustments to the gas pedal to move it to align better with the brake pedal and get it a bit away from the trans tunnel. All good now with that.

That created the next issue, that of the two pedals being too close to each other. Couple of partial cuts to the brake pedal, a bit of adjustment and rewilding and voila. With my shoe used as a SAD (shoe aided Design) to verify the finished product, I claim that project done.

I also finished the welding on the fuel pump cover and have it primed.

Next update is the replacement sway bar.

_________________
Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

One item that I have been putting off for a few years, is my defroster hose adapter. I have the Vintage Air Mini Gen II heat & A/C unit. The defroster ports are made for 2-inch hose. For various reasons I chose to reduce them to 1-1/2" hose. This requires an adapter. For this purpose, and others, I purchased a 3d printer a little over a year ago. I played with it and made a few things. However, I haven't touched it for 12 months or so. I thought this would be a good time to dust it off and make something useful with it.

The VA ports are basically circular with a flat, Sort of like a modified "D" shape. After a few hits and misses, I have something that will print out and actually fit. The inset in the bottom, loosely snaps over the bumps molded into the VA unit. These will be glued, likely RTV'd, onto the VA housing.

Whether I will ever drive this car in weather than requires a defroster is irreverent. If I ever do, I will be ready for it.

_________________
Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

I cannot use the original location of the sway bar as that space is now taken up by the radiator and the cooling fan. Moving that a third time is out of the question for me.

Using a sway bar calculator on Addco.com, I calculate the OEM sway bar (MGB-GT 5/8") would offer close to 107 lbs/inch. If I mount a sway bar forward of the radiator/condenser, the sway bar arms would need to be ~3 inches longer. A 3/4" sway bar in that location would provide 117 lbs/in. Pretty close to the OEM value.

I purchased a 3/4" x 26 inch wide racing sway bar, tapered up to 7/8" on the outer ends. It has a working length of 23 inches. I plan on welding the arms directly to the splines leaving the smooth part of the 7/8" for pivoting in the mounts. It should be fairly easy to mount on the MGB frame rails of 23" outside to outside. My rough calculations are that the new one will have very slightly higher, maybe 10-15%, performance as the OEM MGBGT bar.

Here is where I am currently at. I purchased the 7/8 inch sway bar mounts. I received the 1/2" female rod ends yesterday in the mail so I just had to modify the OEM links. I chose the 1/2" because the MG links were just a hair over 0.500". The 1/2" would be easy to tap for those threads.

This is the end of the sway bar journey for a bit. I want to wait for tires, wheels before I finalize the arm fabrication. I have some cast steel I-beams 1.50" x 0.44" that I plan on using instead of the 3" tall 3/16" steel that another builder used for his arms. My calculations for the arms are close to his. I plan on welding a couple of ears to the I-beam's inner end to embrace the rod end as indicated in my sketch over the rod end and on the other end, drilling a hole to weld over the sway bar end.

_________________
Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

I have gone about as far as I can go for the moment with the sway bar. The arms are now fabricated. I had some cast steel I-beams that should work well, I hope. Still need to do some bending, but I cannot do that at the moment. I want to be sure that I clear the tires in full lock. Since I don't have tires purchased yet, and I need to weld in the sway bar mounts (the brackets for the mounting the body to the rotisserie are currently in the way) I cannot finish. I do feel good about this, though.

I continue to make slow progress on the car. I guess that is better than no progress at all. I usually have two, three or more sub-projects going at the same time. Sway bar design, Power windows, battery cover mods, wheel selection, body seam sealing, priming (?) with seam sealer, etc.

I decided on the wheels. I purchased VTO Silverstone 15x6 et24 wheels were ordered and received. I really like these wheels. And the 2-eared faux spinners. They may not be to factory correct people's liking, but they work for me. Besides, this is the dark-side of the forum. I doubt they are even looking here.

I seam sealed the engine compartment, ready for paint, whenever that happens. I also cleaned up the interior floors and interior, seam sealed them and gave them a coat of Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator. They likely didn't need that because it has new sills and floors, but I wanted a continuous color scheme. Also, the welds did need to be protected before I flip this car over and do the same on the underside. I guess that is next on the schedule.

_________________
Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

That's looking mighty fine Chuck, mighty fine

_________________
Perry

'If man built it, man can fix it'
"No one ever told me I couldn't do it."
"If you can't build it safe, don't build it."

Perry's Locost Super Che7enette Build
Perry's TBird Based 5.0L Super 7 L.S.O
Perry's S10 Super 7 The 3rd
Perry's 4th Build The Topolino 500 (Little Mouse) Altered
Perry's 5th Build the Super Slant 6 Super 7
Perry's Final Build the 1929 Mercedes Gazelle

Good looking wheels, Chuck. VTO is probably who I'm eyeing most for a set of Classic 8s, unless I luck into some genuine Minilites/Panasports.

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1975 MG Midget
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=24382
13B Powered Rotus Geauxkart
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=20899

Thanks Perry. Sometimes I wonder if I should be posting this in a Locost forum. There doesn't seem to be much traffic on my posts. But I'm too far into it to stop now.

_________________
Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

Thanks. What I liked about the VTO wheels over some others, is that the holes for the wheel studs have a steel insert. The lug nuts are steel-on-steel. not steel on soft aluminum. VTO wheels are highly rated over in the MGB community.

_________________
Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

Yeah I hear you Chuck, I'm on my second non-traditional build with the Gazelle. Although there isn't as much feedback as a 7 build I feel comfortable posting on this forum. The folks on here are always helpful and positive and occasionally make you laugh out loud

_________________
Perry

'If man built it, man can fix it'
"No one ever told me I couldn't do it."
"If you can't build it safe, don't build it."

Perry's Locost Super Che7enette Build
Perry's TBird Based 5.0L Super 7 L.S.O
Perry's S10 Super 7 The 3rd
Perry's 4th Build The Topolino 500 (Little Mouse) Altered
Perry's 5th Build the Super Slant 6 Super 7
Perry's Final Build the 1929 Mercedes Gazelle

Just gonna say that I read most of your posts even though I don't comment. Always interesting to see how others approach and solve problems. So I appreciate the content you contribute. Keep up the good work!

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Cheers,
Logan

Same here, a bit moreso since I've stepping into the MG family.

_________________
1975 MG Midget
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=24382
13B Powered Rotus Geauxkart
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=20899

As others have said, I don't comment much but always check out your posts. Keep 'em coming!

It is a bit reassuring that some of you read my posts. I do thank you all for following.

I have fewer and fewer actual problems to figure out as time goes on. Not much of it would apply to anyone else's builds. Most of the heavy work is done and I'm into the mundane work of cleaning up 55 years of crud, prepping for actual bodywork as opposed to rust repair and modifications. I still have the power windows and door locks to address. Also am working on a way to hold the doors open without them closing on me. The MGB doors didn't have that feature until the last couple of years of production. I have a plan on that that seems to work. Have to check them on the car soon.

I am thinking of color schemes and the pretty stuff more heavily lately. I have a target date for completion of Spring of '25. Not sure if everything will be complete. I do hope to have it street able by then though. The national meet is about 20 miles from home next year. I want to attend that. In order to meet that, I am leaning more toward having it painted instead of doing it myself.

_________________
Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766