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PostPosted: April 1, 2020, 8:59 am 
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I did all of the plug welds on the Mini using a MIG. Functionally they're fine. I regret not buying a spot welder due to the cleanup afterwards since a lot of the seams are on the outside of the body. For a floor it won't matter. The trick is starting in the center of the lower sheet so you get good penetration on the far size then moving in an expanding circle until you catch the upper sheet.

To keep the sheets from separating due to thermal expansion, do some 1/8" holes every 6" or so for clecos.

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PostPosted: April 6, 2020, 8:20 pm 
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Both floors are now officially welded in. I ended up using the MIG and just ground down the welds. The grinding went quickly. Flap wheels are great devices. These floors are made of electro-galvanized steel. After grinding, I shot a temporary coat of cheap paint over the welds to limit rust formation while I work on other parts. I then worked on finding a few pinholes and screw holes in the metal, welding them up as I found them.

I welded the underside of the floor around the frame members about every 4-5 inches as a belts and suspenders technique. No rattle of "loose" steel when I rapped the floors with a hammer so I think I got it secured. There was significant drumming though. I will definitely have to add some sound deadening material when final assembly. I had some time to put away some of the tools before we had a Zoom cocktail hour with some friends. I hope everyone is staying safe and making progress on their projects.


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PostPosted: April 7, 2020, 3:47 am 
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Looks great. I can appreciate the amount of work you've put into this. I'd like to get back on the spit. :shock:

On the tracker, I was grinding the pinch weld flange out on the rear side of the lca cross member for better access to the oil pan drain plug rounded by previous owner(s). I should have set the motor a 1/2 inch higher and/or 1/2 inch further back. Nicked a trans line so now have to replace that too but access is good. Been meaning to put the marine gear reduction starter on anyway and since I'm down unda, etc,......

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PostPosted: April 7, 2020, 11:45 am 
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Thanks. I know you know how much work it is. :mrgreen: In a pinch, you could always braze a patch over the knick in your trans fluid line. Staying out of the stores is a good thing now.

I keep losing little bits and pieces. Well, not really losing them. I just can't figure out where I left them. One of the jack sockets that weld to the crossmember and sill, and the tapped plates for securing the passenger door hinges. I know they will show up again. It is rather frustrating.

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PostPosted: April 9, 2020, 8:15 pm 
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Cool MGB GT video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YVcWQ4N3RdA

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PostPosted: April 14, 2020, 8:55 am 
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Russ, check the date that was posted. It was Apr 1. It is a reproduction made by Frontline, a company that uses new body shells and Miata bits. The video is a spoof, sort of. He presents the car as a real special factory car. That is, up to the very end where he spills the beans. Still, a real nice car. Thanks for posting.

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PostPosted: April 14, 2020, 9:12 am 
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More bodywork completed and more yet to do. It never ends. The dog leg patch panels are now in place. The passenger side still need a small patch to be formed and placed.

Attachment:
Pass Dogleg 90%.jpg


The driver side is finally welded in place.

Attachment:
DS dogleg ready.jpg
Attachment:
DS dogleg patched.jpg


There is a small section on the rear edge of the wheel well that needs, ummmm, a bit of red metal repair on both the inner well and outer fender :BH:

Attachment:
DS RWW repair.jpg




On another note, after a few false starts in trying to finalize on a potential power source, Yesterday I drove 575 miles round trip to pick up an engine. Choices in the GM 60 degree engines with the desired output are limited. Plenty of FWD versions are around. I'm told that these an engines take a fair amount of parts swapping to work in a RWD orientation. I had one lined up but the deal fell thru. Then late last week I found a 3.4L '95 Camaro engine on Facebook marketplace for an unbelievable low price. No need to swap parts now. It has reportedly only 130k miles I feel confident that the seller was honestly presenting the details about the engine. Time will tell if I am right or not.

I also picked up a used cruise control module and a used fuel pump assembly to try and fit into the old tank. Lots of stuff to play with once I get the body sorted.


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“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766


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PostPosted: April 14, 2020, 10:04 am 
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Hooray! The best rwd v6-60!

One thing is that induction system came after the non-electronic 700r4 was phased out so it will be interesting fitting the tv cable for the 200r4 though I’m sure you will figure it out.

I had to replace the ps pulley on mine. It was bent a bit from the donor s10 accident.

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Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12


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PostPosted: April 14, 2020, 10:46 am 
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Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F wrote:
Hooray! The best rwd v6-60!

One thing is that induction system came after the non-electronic 700r4 was phased out so it will be interesting fitting the tv cable for the 200r4 though I’m sure you will figure it out.

I had to replace the ps pulley on mine. It was bent a bit from the donor s10 accident.


I won't have to replace the pully. it is non-existent. I was planning to delete the PS pump anyway:mrgreen: Maybe those pulleys are just very fragile and get bent easily, as in an accident like yours, or just a bump or two when pulling the engine? If I go with power steering, I will use the electric PS in the steering column. Still not sure If I will do that or not.

I spoke extensively with a guy who does many MGB engine swaps in his shop. He even sells V6 installation kits for the MGB. Originally I was focused on the 2004R due to a lot of reading. It has some small advantages in gearing ratios. Plus I was thinking I might go the megasquirt route for engine control. If I did, then I figured I would need a dumb transmission, which the 2004R is. Otherwise I would need a separate trans computer. (think more $$). SO that was my interest in the 2004R. I now have the engine and all wiring. I have now decided to use the GM ECU with some necessary software mods. With the GM ECU, the 4L60E can be controlled just as it was in the Camaro.

130K mile Engine, starter, alt, PS pump, A/C compressor, Ex manifolds, exhaust pipes, O2 sensor, coil pack, Wiring, ECU...….. all for a mere $90 plus gas and time. I'm retired. I have time. How could I go wrong? Even if I end up scrapping it and getting a FWD 3400 engine, I would need the RWD timing chain cover which is a few bucks by itself. Not all would be lost.

Anyone want a 2004R with a new master rebuild kit (plus...)? :mrgreen:

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Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

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And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766


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PostPosted: April 14, 2020, 4:19 pm 
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Or you could swap to the edebrock intake with 4bbl top and bolt on a TBI from a 4.3l (larger bores) with a simple adapter plate and keep the dis. I just picked up a 4.3l tbi for $15 to mod.

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Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12


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PostPosted: April 15, 2020, 9:03 am 
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Nice find!

A number of years ago I looked at a MGB with a smaller 60 degree swap with a T5 for sale. Though it needed some finishing, I was impressed with the package. It had a wonderful sound, good throttle response and the T5 was perfect for the car!

The low profile intake system on your engine should fit nicely under the bonnet.

Thom

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PostPosted: April 15, 2020, 10:07 am 
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Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F wrote:
Or you could swap to the edebrock intake with 4bbl top and bolt on a TBI from a 4.3l (larger bores) with a simple adapter plate and keep the dis. I just picked up a 4.3l tbi for $15 to mod.


I am a fan of EFI. There are enough challenges on this build. I don't need to reinvent something that works just fine as it is. ( I can't believe that I just wrote that on the Locost forum. :mrgreen: )

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“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766


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PostPosted: April 15, 2020, 2:08 pm 
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What I’m saying is, IF you wanted to save a $1000 and use the 200r4 and the engine you have, you could by swapping to a TBI EFI intake manifold or for more power, an edelbrock carb manifold with the TBI EFI system. Great deal for $90 though. Just an fyi.

I burned up a low mileage 94 s10 4l60e due to a variable converter lockup that let it slip at highway speed, so I'm not a fan though I'm sure there was a fix.

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Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12


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PostPosted: April 15, 2020, 5:51 pm 
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Question number 346 :lol:
Is that A/C compressor actually going to fit! Looks pretty low and wide.
You're a better man then I. That is a lot of work. Looking good :cheers:
Davew


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PostPosted: April 15, 2020, 8:53 pm 
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Mv8, I'm curious. Exactly what part burned up? Was the lockup valve. was there something you could have originally done to prevent it?

Dave, It has been done before. Delete the PS pump (part of my plan all along), move the alternator where the PS pump was, then move the A/C compressor up where the Alt was. This guy did it. I'm not sure what parts he used or fabricated. It seems to fit well IMO.

Attachment:
MGB 3.4l Compressor.JPG


I picked up a low mileage 4l60E today at the local used parts store. 84k miles. They had pulled the pan and removed the filter. This makes sure the buyer changes the filter to maintain the warranty. Ha! No way the 30 day warranty will be tested for this build.


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Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766


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