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 Post subject: Re: Kelmarkish
PostPosted: December 31, 2019, 5:10 pm 
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Surprisingly the shifter is like "budda" and I'm used to the smooth shifting S2000 and Miatas.

I may need to do a little welding on one piece of the assembly that sits on the trans.


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top of shifter.jpg
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rear shift linkage.jpg
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shift linkage problem.jpg
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 Post subject: Re: Kelmarkish
PostPosted: December 31, 2019, 5:14 pm 
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Here's the leaky water line I mentioned earlier. It is located just aft of the driver's seat below the front of the engine.

I'm guessing there is no bead on the hard line, but it also could be just as easy as it wasn't tightened properly. It feels a little hard so I am going to replace that line.

You can barely see it but that panel that constitutes part of the rear firewall was riveted on and obviously it needs to be made removeable. I have line of partial rivets standing proud in those holes. I would like to remove them and not just knock them down into the tube where they will rattle a lot. Anyone have an easy, sure fire method for doing that?


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 Post subject: Re: Kelmarkish
PostPosted: December 31, 2019, 5:17 pm 
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Before I forget, here's my shop buddy.

She's a Great Bluemation.

Yeah I had to make that name up when a lady at the Vet's was turning her nose up at all the mongrels in there with her pedigreed baby. No, she had no idea I was pulling her leg.

Daddy was a Great Pyrhenees pup and Mom was 50/50 Blue Heeler/Dalmation


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 Post subject: Re: Kelmarkish
PostPosted: December 31, 2019, 5:20 pm 
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The body is a problem for another day. It's in great shape, but he was closing up hood & trunk and making the front and rear a clamshell.

I have no problem with the clamshell, but I want to reopen the hood and trunk to make it faster and easier to do little things to the front like add gas.

His stiffeners really added weight to the rear piece so I might try my hand at some foam core stuff like JD did.


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backside of front body.jpg
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backside of rear body.jpg
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 Post subject: Re: Kelmarkish
PostPosted: December 31, 2019, 5:23 pm 
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The wiring harness is hanging down in the engine belts and without a fenderwell to attach things too this could be fun.

I think I can use a push pin to the side of the high side filler neck to help with some of it, but I'm guessing I will have to do some creative zip tying for the rest.

Well now I have to stop and get ready for New Years Eve. I gotta look purty don't ya know (and that takes a while.)


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wiring harness issue.jpg
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solution to wiring harness2.jpg
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 Post subject: Re: Kelmarkish
PostPosted: January 1, 2020, 11:08 am 
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On my Kelmark, I just used riv-nuts to attach the rear firewall access panel. The panel was made from the fiber glass that was cut out from the fire wall. I fiber glassed a 2" wide strip, around the perimeter, with a 1" over hang above the cut out edge. I then put about 20 riv-nuts in around the perimeter for the attachment. But that was done without the engine in place. You could use aluminum strips riveted to the perimeter of the cut out, and then attach the riv-nuts to the aluminum for your attachment. I used a thin rubber window sealing gasket [one adhesive side] to seal the panel to the engine bay fire wall. A side note, I put the boat vents in the mid-engine bay deck lid Vs the trunk i.e. rear engine VW bay to improve hot air extraction. I had a north south engine which allowed for a rear trunk area to be sealed off from the engine bay, and therefore it would not see any air-flow. Since the mid engine deck is a hollow 2pc inner/outer design, you may want to consider putting smaller vent(s) in the center of the deck lid that would allow the engine intake to be ducked to the lid, and breath out side cold air Vs the hot engine bay air. Davew


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 Post subject: Re: Kelmarkish
PostPosted: January 2, 2020, 12:34 am 
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My rear panel is made out of stainless which I found is very hard to drill without a hard surface to back it. Since all the holes line up and I already have a few things already attached to it, I'd like to just screw it on. My thoughts are that rivnuts are for when I accidentally ream out several of the tapped holes. Start small and work your way up bigger in steps.

Or course ideally all the fasteners would be of some sort of quarter turn variety which would make it very fast to remove. Dzus fasteners would be a lot of work to add at this point and would probably require remaking that back panel.

Either way my first priority is to somehow remove those broken off rivets so they don't fall into the tube and constantly rattle. I have a couple of those in the overhead tube of the soft top on my S2000 and they drive me crazy. is it necessary? No, but it would be desireable.

I was out riding go karts with my 20 year old Grandson who was born on January 1. The other older grandson was born on July 4th. This means I didn't get to do any work at all, but my brain was working.

I have an idea for the structure to hold the fuse box, but I also need to get into the guts of the fuse box and see if in it's pared down shape I might not be able to just ditch that box and buy an aftermarket simpler fuse panel that I might be able to mount higher up on the rear firewall.

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 Post subject: Re: Kelmarkish
PostPosted: January 2, 2020, 1:04 pm 
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An old license plate is good for making tabs to hang wiring or you can use .050 sheet steel. Flatten, drill for the bolt size, drill 1/4 inch hole for the zip or an addel clamp bolt. Aviation cushion clamps have smaller hardware.

Any way to narrow the tunnel at the throttle pedal? Looks like you will need to move the brake assembly over or at least build an offset pedal, but the brake pedal takes the most abuse so it would be better to move it over and keep it straight. Looks like plenty of room to move the fuel tank forward if needed. Looks like you could split the pedals and take an inch out in between and modify the clutch pedal to fit over the step in the floor to push it outboard.

Cute dog. I bet she gets way too much attention!

You could pour some home made waxoil in the tube to keep the rivet heads from rattling but I doubt you will ever hear it.

Why is the alternator sticking out so far?

You can drill the upper rad flange for a few small machine screw fasteners and nylocs. Rubber is better but solid mount seems to last okay without cracking.

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 Post subject: Re: Kelmarkish
PostPosted: January 3, 2020, 1:00 am 
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Thanks for the tip on the license plates. I have several years worth of trailer plates around. I hadn't even thought of them. I might could make me a fancy weatherproof box out of them for the fuse box.

It's out that wide to make use of a readily available standard type belt that can be procured quickly should the need arise. Or at least that's what he told me.

I'm betting I will have to use a Waxoil type thing because I can't see a way to remove them. I wuz hoping there wuz some smart people in the group.

I didn't get a chance to go out to the shop today, but I will tomorrow. I got 3 ground straps today from Amazon. I'm going to run one from the ecu since it has to be mounted on fiberglass and the the other 2 are for whatever I might need them for later.

I've thought of a hundred different ideas for the pedals but until I can go back out there I have no idea if any of them make a lick of sense.

A lick of sense? I know what it means but how did that phrase come into being?

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 Post subject: Re: Kelmarkish
PostPosted: January 3, 2020, 9:25 am 
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Carguy123

If you have a hole to put waxoil in then you should be able to put a small magnet in or if the rivets are aluminum apiece of sticky tape on a wire. Raising, shaking, tilting the car to get the offending items to the area for extracting them out.

Have you thought about rivet nuts as a replacement for the rivets. That way you can screw the item back in place. Just a few thoughts

Red


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 Post subject: Re: Kelmarkish
PostPosted: January 3, 2020, 10:19 am 
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remove those broken off rivets so they don't fall into the tube and constantly rattle. [SNIP] they drive me crazy.
Cut the mufflers off... :mrgreen:

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 Post subject: Re: Kelmarkish
PostPosted: January 4, 2020, 1:02 am 
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Reddragon wrote:
Carguy123

If you have a hole to put waxoil in then you should be able to put a small magnet in or if the rivets are aluminum apiece of sticky tape on a wire. Raising, shaking, tilting the car to get the offending items to the area for extracting them out.

Have you thought about rivet nuts as a replacement for the rivets. That way you can screw the item back in place. Just a few thoughts

Red


Yes, I'd thought of rivnuts, but I think I'll try tapping the holes and then when those strip out later enlarging the holes for rivnuts.

One thing that's been on my mind all day is simply replacing the multiple well made pieces that fit within the cut outs with a simple, large flat piece that is on the rear side of the roll cage and square tubing which will effectively seal the firewall in one pass instead of having to fix multiple gaps/holes. Unfortunately I've only just gotten in and didn't even get out to the shop today, but tomorrow's another day.

So the question becomes, aluminum sheet, steel or stainless? Stainless would look better longer, but cost more. Then it's to figure out where to find large enough pieces at a small enough price.

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 Post subject: Re: Kelmarkish
PostPosted: January 4, 2020, 9:07 am 
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You do not need to think about "LOOKS BETTER" :o
You are probably going to end up with sound damping matl, on the engine side and carpet on the office side, to cut down the noise. That engine is right next to your ear! Davew


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 Post subject: Re: Kelmarkish
PostPosted: January 4, 2020, 10:10 am 
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carguy123 wrote:

It's out that wide to make use of a readily available standard type belt that can be procured quickly should the need arise. Or at least that's what he told me.



Once you know the best length, just carry a spare. It is a tedious process with an auto tensioner, but I'd bring the alt back in and wrap a tape measure around the pulleys to get close to a correct length with the tensioner out of the way then add a few inches. Belts are usually identified by number of ribs (K6=6 rib) and length in inches.Buy a few belts 6 inches apart in length at an autoparts store, then zero in on the best length to provide enough tension with the tensioner released. There should be marks on the tensioner for the range it should be in. If the right range can't fit over the pulleys, you can try unbolting the alt on one side to pull it in for installing the belt while holding the tensioner back then wedge the alt back into position or make the alt mount adjustable. Don't actually need an auto tensioner with a flat belt but it is nice to have.

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 Post subject: Re: Kelmarkish
PostPosted: January 4, 2020, 10:38 pm 
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This not me getting side tracked I promise. It will save me untold time in the future.

Since I had to go out and buy some tubing, etc. I decided to go ahead and get my Car Toolbox started.

In the past I've found that if I make a dedicated toolbox just for this car with all the proper fasteners and tools needed then I'm not spending hours of time searching and at the track I always have just what I need.

I've got a small 16-18" tool box and inside I'll have some plastic organizers with all the proper nuts, bolts, washers and (in this case) the proper allen wrenches. I'm using SS button head screws since you can get an allen wrench into tighter places than a wrench or a screwdriver.

I couldn't find exactly what I wanted so I bought 3 kinds. One was supposed to attach to the outside of my tool box but I forgot what brand of box I had and bought the wrong organizer. I don't think they have one for my brand of box.

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I bought 2 of a small double layered almost tackle box type of container and I really like it, but it's of a lighter plastic and I'm concerned the weight of nuts and bolts when full might compromise the integrity at the worst possible time at a future date. I found this one in the tackle department of Walmart.

Attachment:
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The other is a much heavier and larger waterproof container. It should definitely stand the test of time, but it doesn't have nearly as many sorting options and it has 4 latches so it's harder to get into. I found this one at Home Depot.

Even if I decide on the larger container for my most common items I'll probably keep one of the smaller ones for the miscellany that I know I will develop.

Attachment:
waterproof.jpg
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Right now I have only 2 sizes 1/4-20 and 10-24 so I loaded them up with a big supply to see how

The spare suspension bolts will reside in the toolbox proper.

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