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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: February 6, 2013, 11:50 am 
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Location: Victoria, BC, Canada
I pissed around with pneumatic shifters on a car once... it worked, but in the end it was overly complicated for what was a simple concept, and refilling the CO2 bottles got to be a pain. We went with a cable and lever system and never looked back.


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PostPosted: June 28, 2013, 7:02 pm 
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could you please tell me the engine,trans and bell housing combo that you came up with in your mid engine race car? I'm trying to do this to a 1963 ford econoline van,it would be perfect. Thank you


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PostPosted: July 10, 2013, 7:47 pm 
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63 Econoline, no different than my 64 Falcon van was. ... yep there was such a thing and mine even still had all of its USN numbers on it when I sold it.
You can fit a 302/C4 package if you use a short tail-shaft C4 (ie passenger car) and the doghouse from a Dodge van. You still end up with a really short drive shaft.
Spend some money on a more robust cooling system. .. and upgrade the front brakes/master cylinder.

ABSURDITY WARNING!!

After an amazingly short time you'll find that heavy throttle launches, even without full traction/full throttle application, cause the body seams to pucker and separate :mrgreen:
Weld the seams solid and run traction bars, you won't regret it. I also recommend vacuum secondaries if it's street driven.

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PostPosted: October 22, 2013, 10:45 am 
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Joined: July 17, 2006, 3:09 pm
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Location: Holly, MI
638door wrote:
could you please tell me the engine,trans and bell housing combo that you came up with in your mid engine race car? I'm trying to do this to a 1963 ford econoline van,it would be perfect. Thank you


The car currently has a LS2 Corvette engine, a Chevy big block bellhousing, and a Muncie based four speed. After getting the original Muncie working in the car with cable shifters, I found a number of oil leaks. The original Muncie transmissions don't have a front seal; they use a slinger on the shaft and a single drain hole. Under extreme deceleration, the slinger can't keep up with the amount of oil pouring out the frond and I ended up with oil all over the clutch and coming out the bellhousing. The solution was to buy the aftermarket Autogear Super Case and a M22 gearset. These parts use a real lip seal on the front and also have a tigher fit between the countershaft and case (which also leaks). The M22 gearset also offers a closer ratio spread and straighter gears for increased strength.

The transmission worked well for the racing season. I did have some leakage issues with the customer adapter. RTV was the temporary solution for this season, but over the winter I will make some machined plugs to solve the problem. I will also be adding a dedicated vent to the transmission; a larger vent on the diff; and coolers for both.

Ken


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PostPosted: October 22, 2013, 10:53 am 
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Location: Holly, MI
For those who like video, here are a bunch. I bought a couple of GoPro 3 Hero cameras for this season as well as Harry's Lap Timer for data.

Here is a single lap with data:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YyKRxTE_YCw

Here is a video from one of the GoPro's without data:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5v7NcDecGBg

Here is another session that ends with me running out of talent:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=swyivIy5EmU

This one is looking backwards at the rear tire so I could see it coming off the ground (and yes, I know I need to do some wiring cleanup):
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2HEQDpLfncQ


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PostPosted: April 16, 2016, 1:00 pm 
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Location: Swanton, Vt
I know this thread is as old as dinosaurs, but I was lurking through this thread and was wondering if you had any final dimensions from the total length. Such as the harmonic balanced go the centerline of the axles. I've been wondering the possibilities of using the lt1 or the 4.3 v6 in a formula style hillclimb vehicle and wanted to see what the approximate wheelbase would be. Any dimensions would help with the design of the frame. Thanks so much

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PostPosted: April 22, 2016, 1:08 pm 
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Location: Holly, MI
Parrottrj wrote:
I know this thread is as old as dinosaurs, but I was lurking through this thread and was wondering if you had any final dimensions from the total length. Such as the harmonic balanced go the centerline of the axles. I've been wondering the possibilities of using the lt1 or the 4.3 v6 in a formula style hillclimb vehicle and wanted to see what the approximate wheelbase would be. Any dimensions would help with the design of the frame. Thanks so much


I think the dimensions are in this thread somewhere, but I can measure again. It just might take a few days because the car is not at home right now. The wheelbase came out to 118".

Ken


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PostPosted: April 22, 2016, 8:24 pm 
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Looks cool :cheers:
Do yourself a favor and spend $25 on some arm restraints.
If you ever went upside down, this will be the thing that will save you from losing an arm.

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PostPosted: March 28, 2017, 6:23 pm 
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can you please post more details on the muncie c5 gearbox build?


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PostPosted: July 23, 2017, 10:44 am 
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Ken, I guess I came across this build thread a little late in the game. Especially since Photobucket wiped out all the pictures. Oddly enough I grew up in Holly. I tried to email you to get some info and pictures but you do not have an email link. If you have the time could you give an update on the project .

thanks
Chip Smith


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PostPosted: December 20, 2017, 4:28 pm 
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Location: Holly, MI
Sorry I missed a few questions here, I think these guys eventually caught up with me on email.

If anyone has questions about the transaxle, please ask. It's still going strong, and now uses a Tilton twin disc 7.25" clutch. That saved me about 40 pounds of rotating mass over the GM clutch.

Also, here are some more videos:

One of the engines letting go while a friends was driving (notice the flames in the mirror):
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wM7pcEECUoA


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ACnwGbENZmc

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5C0OgpvWuxc


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PostPosted: December 29, 2018, 7:04 pm 
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You may not be here but have some question ! Could you give me a PM ?
Thanks. Randy

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PostPosted: January 1, 2019, 7:20 pm 
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Great Video !

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PostPosted: January 2, 2019, 8:55 am 
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How bad is the engine hurt? :ack:
Flames!!! That's usually a sign that you just added an expensive oil drain hole.
DaveW


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PostPosted: January 3, 2019, 8:41 pm 
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Location: Holly, MI
davew wrote:
How bad is the engine hurt? :ack:
Flames!!! That's usually a sign that you just added an expensive oil drain hole.
DaveW



That engine was a total loss. I could see through it standing 10 feet away. It's been through more than it's fair share of engines. I have a fresh LS3 in the garage waiting to be installed. I also added a dry sump system to eliminate any oiling issues.

Ken


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