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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 29, 2008 7:01 pm 
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Very nice, looking forward to more pictures and videos. You work FAST Ken!

Rod

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 30, 2008 7:20 am 
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Joined: Mon Jul 17, 2006 3:09 pm
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Location: Holly, MI
Rod,
I was able to work fast because my buddies helped me, and more importantly, I didn't have bodywork. The only electrical stuff I had to worry about outside the engine was a brake light and my gauges. Even so, I still have a lot of things to finish up. I just couldn't pass up the opportunity to get it out this year before winter. I don't plan on making it street legal, so if I didn't get it out for this event, it would have to wait until next spring. Now, I know some of the issues I need to work on.

I will get some more detail pics up soon. I am also planning on taking it to the dyno in a few weeks, so I should have some video and dyno charts from that.

Thanks
Ken


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 Post subject: 6spd
PostPosted: Mon Nov 24, 2008 2:22 am 
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I stumbled across this during a google image search. Reminded me of your buildlog that i've been watching.

Canadian supercar, Locus Plethore. it uses a GM powerplant, with a "6speed manual" corvette trans/diff coupled directly to the engine.


Image

i was trying to figure out how they solved the forward shift mechanism


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 24, 2008 10:03 am 
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Location: SoCal
Geez, look how far the axles are behind the engine. Whatever that goes into is going to be pretty long. Most true transaxles have the axle ports literally two feet further forward.

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 24, 2008 12:03 pm 
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Location: West Chicago,IL
He said it is from a Locus Plethore

Verrrrrrrry loooooong.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Nov 24, 2008 2:50 pm 
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Location: Holly, MI
Thanks for posting that. It looks like they are using an adaptor plate between the bellhousing and trans. I don't know why that is needed, but maybe I can find out.

I do know a guy on LS1Tech was modifying the trans to shift from the middle. He's in Australia and he sells the transmissions though, so he was not open to sharing the solution.

I am going to look into this so I can get some more information. The only problem I had with my car during the first drive was the auto transmission. I haven't worked on it since to confirm the problems, but it did make me want to investigate the manual more.

As for the length, my car came out at 118" wheelbase. You could shorten it up a little by bringing the front axle centerline closer to your feet and also by angling the half-shafts forward. I'm sure you could get back to 118" with these changes. I thought the car handled pretty well, and it was easy to control while sliding.

Ken


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PostPosted: Mon Nov 24, 2008 10:09 pm 
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BB69 wrote:
As for the length, my car came out at 118" wheelbase. You could shorten it up a little by bringing the front axle centerline closer to your feet and also by angling the half-shafts forward. I'm sure you could get back to 118" with these changes. I thought the car handled pretty well, and it was easy to control while sliding.


I googled "locus plethore wheelbase" and every hit came back 115.75"

either they have the axles angled like crazy or they have a cushion on the windshield for your forehead to rest on while driving.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Nov 25, 2008 1:13 pm 
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Location: Holly, MI
Front what I read, the driver sits in the middle of the car, with passengers behind and to the sides. That allows them to push the foot box forward a bunch. I'm assuming that's how they did it, because with 700HP, CV joints won't last very long running at a large angle.

Ken


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 02, 2008 12:11 am 
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Location: Subs of Detroit, MI
BB69 wrote:
sodamninsane,
We try to make it to Grattan 2-3 times per year. I am working on a two day event out there next year. It's a fun track; a lot more fun in the dry. We run events at Gingerman, Grattan, and Waterford. You should come out next year, and I will take you out for a ride.

Ken


uh... can i save a spot too? Maybe we can have our cars out together once i get mine rolling. Would be cool to see a V8 middy next to a R1 middy. What kind of rules do you have to follow to be track legal? Obviously mine will be when done but i might as well start plannin ahead. I have been to gratten, gingerman, and mid-o on my bike and also been to them +waterford in my uncles SCCA cars (volvo and a camaro)

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Dec 02, 2008 8:38 am 
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Location: Holly, MI
You're more than welcome to come out. I will have a passenger seat installed for next season. I am working on the 2009 schedule as we speak. The only date set so far is April 25th at Gingerman, but more are coming.

To be track legal, you will need a car in good mechanical condition. Depending on where you're at in your build, one of the most important things is a rear brake light. My car isn't street legal, so it has no windshield, turn signals, horn, etc. If you aren't going to have a windshield, you do need a full face helmet with a face shield. You will of course need harnesses for the driver and passenger (if applicable).

The only other thing that is a little tricky is fenders. I am feeling my way through that right now. Most of the tracks I have spoken with get nervous about a car without fenders. However, motorcycle style fenders are considered to be sufficient. I am going to be adding front and rear bumpers to my car at the least, and maybe some real fenders as well. If you have any questions when it comes time to bring it to the track, give me a shout and we can make sure.

Ken


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Dec 02, 2008 8:46 am 
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Location: Holly, MI
On another note, I did take the car to the dyno last Friday. I forgot to take my camera, so no video. It wasn't too exciting though, just a sweep from 2000RPM to 5500RPM. The car made 300HP and 320ft-lbs to the wheels on a Mustang dyno. There were no signs of pinging, and the A/F ratio was spot on.

I will post a copy of the graph when I get home.

Ken


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Dec 02, 2008 11:16 am 
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Location: Subs of Detroit, MI
Why did you cut it off at 5500? Doesnt the stock powerband go to around 5700-5900?

From my F-bod days those numbers sound about right for a auto LS1 on a 'stang dyno. Usually they put about 320/320 on a dynojet.

Is yours all stock? Do you have a stall or anything? Those motors are pretty straight forward and easy to mod. We used to do cam swaps in about 3-4 hours. Pretty cheap swap also considering they come stock with roller rockers.

Anyways its not like you need a ton of power with the weight your pushing around. Your power to weight ratio has to be pretty nice.

Keep us updated!

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2007 R1 Powered Mid Engine Street & Track Car
Build Log: viewtopic.php?t=4970
Quote:
On the cool points scale you rank just above Isaac Newton and just under Batman.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Dec 02, 2008 11:58 am 
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Location: Holly, MI
The engine is a stock 5.3L truck engine other than the LS1 intake and LS6 exhaust manifolds. The power was falling off at 5500 so no need to keep winding it up. My goal for this engine is reliable power while I get the chassis sorted out.

I expect the car weighs around 2200 lbs, so the weight to power ratio is about 7.3-1 which is as good or better than a new C6. It should be fun.

Ken


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Dec 02, 2008 5:57 pm 
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Location: Subs of Detroit, MI
oh wow... didnt know you were using the truck block. Well you know when you want to go 500+ you will be fine with that iron block :twisted:

j/k but that would be insane. Get the frame dialed in, body done, then throw in a cam for an easy bump to 400. I guess im just a power nut :lol:

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2007 R1 Powered Mid Engine Street & Track Car
Build Log: viewtopic.php?t=4970
Quote:
On the cool points scale you rank just above Isaac Newton and just under Batman.


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 Post subject: Mid Shift
PostPosted: Wed Jan 07, 2009 3:49 am 
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Posts: 4
Ken,

i did a little more research about the T56 transmission use for your car, and my next possible project.

Modified T56, with shifter located in tail OR mid section
Image

Modified Camaro T56 for a hot rod
Image

Conversion kit used (approx $300)
Image

LS1 Bellhousing from a Camaro/Firebird/GTO
Image

Camaro T56 front plate

This will be used to replace the front of the corvette c5/c6 t56 transmission. it will close the hole that the shift rod sticks out of. It will also allow you to attach the bellhousing to the transmission. It will also have the mounting provisions for the hydraulic release bearing that you will also source from a camaro

Image

Camaro T56 input shaft to correct the length so it will engage the cluch assmbly correctly.
Image

The shift attachment. You will cut the internal shift rail, and attach this in the middle. This will be in place of where stock corvette reverse lock out attachment was. The new piece will have moulded onto it a provision to use the reverse lockout solenoid in the CAGS (1-4 skipshift) hole/location.

ALSO while doing that modification you will have to shorten the front of the shifter rail so that it wont stick out of the front of the transmission (since we just blocked off the hole with the new front plate)

Image

Image




Right now i'm running through the car auctions to find a donor C5 corvette, so i can liberate the engine, trans, diff, suspension & steering components. No luck just yet, may just have to ebay it, lol.

i'll keep you updated on how it goes.

-Ray


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