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So today I made a mockup of the rest of the frame using PVC to make sure my seats and all fit in right. CAD is great but its even better to sit in a life size model. Although its a bit crude, it has given me the go ahead to start cutting and welding the frame.

Interesting. I'd like to see that. Got pix?

well it wasnt a complete frame, just extended the PVC from the front suspension box to behind the seat. I wanted to make sure that i would be comfortable with enough elbow room and that i would have a good line of sight. There are so many times i wish i could just follow a set of plans for this but i just want a custom middy so bad lol. Ill post a pic when i get them off the camera.

Basically i just used PVC and a bunch of 3 way 90* elbow things. Where i needed bends and such that were less then 45* i just heated it up with the heat gun and stretched it.

Nice work, Any chance of sharing the PN of the lower BJ, for the benefit of other miata based builds.

Keep it up.
Andrew

Yea not a problem. I just went up to the closest mom and pops part store and raided their parts inventory. The Autozone Checkers Murrays and other stores usually don't like it. Its just a ball joint from some small GM car.

The make is Carquest
The number is RK5295

It was only $27.00 versus like 90 for the miata.

Also rebuilt my build table with my dad tonight using 2X6's for the border and 2x4's for the inner supports. I ran out of screws just as I was finishing and home depot closed 15 minutes prior lol. I just gotta build the legs for it and put big screws in the bottoms of the legs to level it out... like a pool table.

So im a bit stuck on my roll bar. I dont want to do the traditional locost single hoop style. I want to do either a double hoop or two rails going backwards like the GX3

Here are examples of the two:


I dont know how track legal of a design this would be using DOM, but if there was a brace in the center to connect them they would be really strong.





To build this one i would do it a bit different. The forward most part would be 1.5in DOM that would run to the floor and behind it a couple inches would be 1/2in DOM or so run to the upper frame. The front 1.5in DOM would be verticle or just past going forward. The rear 1/2 hoop would be angled more back for added support... then plate them together with thin sheet steel for the rectangular deep look. Of course i would need to make two...

Thoughts?

quick question can i get the rought box demensions of your engine and tranny?

like what the overall width, length and height?

this would greatly improve my scratch frame drawings...
thanks in advanced

yea when it quits snowing ill make my way to the garage and get the measurements.

heres a quick pic of the build table and a small area built with PVC for mock up

So I picked up four of these wheels in 17x7 for 320 dollars.

http://image-cache.boostcruising.com/da ... _thumb.jpg

I know most people think they're too big, but I love them so I dobt care lol. As for comfort of larger wheels that's not an issue either... I've got over 40K on an R6 and R1 over the last 2 years lol.

just some updated pics... Dont mind the two pieces of steel laying on top of the frame. Just used to make sure everything is level and straight. Still have to add in the triangulation and all. Just a basic frame for now... Also threw the motor up there to get some mounting ideas. It looks so small for 170hp lol

looks really nice... i love the suspension box. the seats look amazing too

Got some parts in today:
530 chain (for my rear chain drive diff)
2- 4 piston 2004 Yamaha R6 front calipers (to be used inboard for the rear brakes
2005 R6 fuel pump (this one is obvious)
2005 R6 rear shock (still need one more but its for the suspension)

Its been freezing outside so i havent had much time to work on it. Here are some updates of the seat forward.

Disclaimer: There is still some bracing that is not cut and tacked up yet... also i plan to run a few sheer panels in the front, in the a-arm mounting walls, and back by the drivers area to help resist intrusion of objects.

Again the front isnt done yet lol just some updates... most is welded and some is still tacked until its final. The entire main part of the frame is welded and sits perfectly flat on the table

Oh and the dripping / browning around the weld picture is from the anti splatter spray. It all wipes right off.