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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: March 27, 2009, 11:23 pm 
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Auto Motive, My friends call me Motive
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Joined: October 23, 2007, 11:56 pm
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Location: Spanish Fork, UT
Hey Jack. DHempy sent me a very funny PM about that same comment I made. Maybe I should keep comments about the wife, making kids, and checking droop in seperate paragraphs! I can see myself as a frustrated teenager doing my homework, "This is stupid, when will I ever use English after school!!!!" :lol:

Thanks for the possitive comments too. Before I started I watched in amazement as you and others built amazing cars hoping that someday someone might think the same things about my car.

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PostPosted: March 30, 2009, 4:25 am 
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Location: Melbourne Australia
looks fantastic. great work, thanks for sharing the cad files. i have just downloaded a copy and will look at them shortly. ill probably also print them out and take them to out local club meeting and show a few of the lads there.

thanks again,
ryan in melbourne - Australia.

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Thanks for the info

kind regards Ryan


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PostPosted: March 31, 2009, 10:46 pm 
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Thanks Ryan, just remember that if anyone in your club wants prints they have to come here to get them. Locostusa will take over the world, one car builder at a time! :twisted:

An American that actually knows were Melbourne is:
Zane

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PostPosted: May 1, 2009, 5:38 pm 
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I really like your design and love the fact that you are posting up all the detail so that we can try and emulate you. I had a few questions about the upright though; How are you attaching the brake caliper? Do you think that a rear hub from a 240sx could be adapted to the front to make it a suitable knuckle for a traditional locost but in an AWD set up? It uses a similiar 4 bolt design with the 5x114.3 bolt pattern but it has the drive flange in it.


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PostPosted: May 2, 2009, 11:23 pm 
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The brake calipers will be attached with a simple welded on bracket that the caliper bolts to. you can buy pre made brackets for GM, wilwood and many other calipers if you don't want to fab your own or want ideas. I think a driven hub could be used. I thought about using the front hubs from my downer caravan due to them being shorter. ruled it out though cause it would take lathe work on the outer end of the CV axle nuckle and knew most builders wouldn't have access to a lathe.

If there is anyone out there that checks this thread 5 times a day waiting for updates the reason there haven't been any for a while is cause I've been out of town/state for a month. I have 2 spec homes on the market and not able to find enough local work I had to find some construction work elsewhere. If anyone wants to buy a beautiful home in Montana you could really help me out. I am going into late night garage session withdrawal.

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PostPosted: May 5, 2009, 9:58 pm 
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Joined: July 14, 2008, 9:07 pm
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Location: SW FL
Boy Motive, I know the "Spec Home Feeling" all too well... down here in SW FL is like the bull's eye of the housing industry slump... It sure tossed our cookies and put both mywife and I back into the workforce. We are lucky we found places in the workforce, many haven't :-(

I only check 5 times a week :-)

Mike Bynum


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PostPosted: May 18, 2009, 12:38 am 
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Sold at least one home!!!! So I made it back home after 5 weeks of working out of state, so I'm now able to get back to work on the car! So far I have finnalized what I am doing with the rear suspension. Was going to make some custom uprights but I got measuring the axles from my donner car. What a stroke of luck, with the stock front uprights and the just a little less offset wheels than I am going to use on the front the track will come out right were I wanted it! So instead of having expensive axles made for an engine I hope gets replaced with something more modern, all I have to do is build some simple brackets to adapt the uprights. I wish the building industry wasn't such a scare right now. I found a maxima with a bad clutch on criegslist for $200. I want it so bad but just too worried that my stroke of luck will run out. Thankfully I still have steel and materials to finnish up the frame and suspension so I can keep moving ahead. If I don't get busier at work I just might have to make my car qualify for the GRM$2000 :D challange but then I wouldn't have the money to get there :( . Time to hit the garage so I can get some new pics up soon.

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PostPosted: May 24, 2009, 2:06 am 
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I'm really tired tonight so instead of trying to work on the car and messing up everything I do, I decided its time for an update with pictures. Finnally decide were to locate the engine. Getting it shimed just right on the build table was impossible but luckily my engine has bolt on axles. A couple pieces of plywood with the bolt pattern located at the right height and a 2x4 screwed between them let me locate the axles were I wanted them.
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By screwing the 2x4 to the table I could keep the axle location from moving while I rotated the engine around the axle centerline by shimming under the oil pan. With the engine located I could figure out the size of the engine bay and the rear suspension. I played with the height of the rear-most bulkhead till I could run a diagonal across every side of the engine bay including one from the driver rear corner to the were the rollbars cross.
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Should help to keep the frame stiff. The Rollbar braces to the rear are going to have to be removable so I can get the engine out. The bracket on the bottom of the bar is bolted to the frame in three planes.
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I haven't decide how to connect it to the rollbar. Any thoughts on if I should do it with a double lug or a telescoping joint? Does a doulble lug have to have a cap plate that raps around the rollbar to be SCCA approved? Maybe some pictures of how others have done it would be appriciated.

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PostPosted: May 24, 2009, 2:23 pm 
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This and some other methods can be found in the SCCA GCRs.


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PostPosted: May 25, 2009, 2:42 am 
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Thanks Jon. I guess my question about the removable brace involves the line 9.4.4 G7b of the SCCA GCR. it says "The double lug type must include a doubler, gusset, or capping arrangement to advoid distortion or excessive strain caused by welding." I then shows the following picture with the capping plate wrapped around the main hoop.
Attachment:
removable brace.JPG
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I do not see this on your car Jon or even gussets between the two ears and main bar. Is this going to cause trouble with a tech inspector? The rule just isn't clear enough in my mind so I double guess if will be adequite. Could you also post a close up of the end of the removable bar? I am wondering how you fabricated the end to be narrower then the rest of the bar.

P.S. hope you get though the red tape quickly Jon. It must be frustrating waiting.

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PostPosted: May 25, 2009, 10:03 am 
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You're testing my memory and it's becoming shorter every day.

Let me state, my cage is incomplete and does not comply with all SCCA or NASA requirements for various reasons. I don't plan to do any wheel to wheel racing.

The detail I'm thinking of is in the 2006 GCR, 18.7, Figure 10. With the lugs parallel, a capping plate wasn't required. However, they do show an extra shear plate wrapped over the tube where the lugs are welded. I didn't add that. I did add shear plates under the front and rear hoops where they attached to the 16 ga. main tubes.

I'd follow the current GCRs. Your application is complicated a bit by the acute angular intersection.


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PostPosted: May 25, 2009, 12:48 pm 
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If you want to ensure that the method used is SCCA legal, whether it's only solo legal or club legal too, it would probably be best to contact somebody in the SCCA. Personally even if I never planned to go wheel to wheel, I think I would want to make it club racing legal just to stay on the safe side. So you probably want to start with somebody like the club racing Scrutineering National Administrator, who should at least be able to point you in the right direction. scrutineer@scca.com

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PostPosted: May 29, 2009, 12:57 am 
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Quick update: This is what I came up with for the removable brace bracket. Besides this one I've been making suspension brackets and other odd and ends, just not much to make the build look any different.
Attachment:
removeablebrace.jpg
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I was also wondering how many people out there are going to or thinking about building from my plans? I know of at least one person who is starting. really I'm mostly curious as I think it would take alot of faith to start without knowing what it's going to look like or even if I'll ever finnish it. Knowing a few people are relying on me will help keep me motivated. I'd appriciate a PM if there is anyone out there not ready to post your plans public. Thanks everyone!

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PostPosted: June 6, 2009, 5:26 pm 
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Bump.....

Ok, thats annoying when people do that over and over but hears to moving to the top again!

What do you get when you spend an afternoon at the lathe making suspension bushings? A garbage can full of curly strips of delrin and hopefully some bushings. I only bored them out to fit a 3/8" bolt but need to enlarge them to take a metal crushtube. I'd like to find something with about a 5/8" od and a 3/8" id. I'll probly just have to machine some. Any suggestions?
Attachment:
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I also turned some aluminum bushings that take a 5/8" steel rod to align the bushing sleeves for welding the a-arms. When I built my front arms I just used delrin bushings with a rod. I thought I was going to go blind when my spot welds got too hot and melted some of the delrin. Nastly toxic fumes! When I'm done with my a-arms I'll make the aluminum bushings advailable to anyone wanting to borrow them. Just pay shipping! I was also wondering if there is an interest from anyone else to buy some delrin bushings? I timed myself when I made mine and I think I could do a set of 16 halves for about $45. I might also talk to my uncle to see how much I could get a couple hundred made up on his CNC lathe with a material feeder if there is enough interest. Could save alot of money over useing rods end and threaded bungs.

Should have the upright brackets done tonight then I can verify the for/aft measurement of the upper balljoint so I can build my upper a-arms.
Attachment:
6.6.09 001.jpg
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PostPosted: June 9, 2009, 12:20 pm 
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Hi!
Just started reading your build and looks very good! The front hub looks excellent. I'd make one small change to them: add round tubing where the hub bolts pass thru to keep the box section from collapsing when you torque the bolts down and from cornering loads being passed thru the bolts. You can use something else to fill the gap, but it has to be something that won't buckle also. They don't have to be fully welded, but it can't buckle.


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