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PostPosted: June 9, 2009, 2:28 pm 
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Mid-Engined Maniac

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How do you set rear toe?

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PostPosted: June 10, 2009, 12:35 am 
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Auto Motive, My friends call me Motive
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Joined: October 23, 2007, 11:56 pm
Posts: 270
Location: Spanish Fork, UT
jerelw brought up a good point about crush tubes on the hub bolts for the front uprights. I don't think I showed them on any pictures in my build log but I did in the resourse section where I posted all my CAD files. Thanks for mentioning that so no one misses it.

Rear toe is adjusted on with the cross bar bolted to upright. By slotting one of the holes I can pivot the upright relative to the bar. If after driving the car I might find that it moves around. if it does I'll have to make a new bar with holes in the proper place to solidly lock toe.


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PostPosted: July 8, 2009, 11:29 pm 
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Auto Motive, My friends call me Motive
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Joined: October 23, 2007, 11:56 pm
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Location: Spanish Fork, UT
Wow, its been a whole month since my last update. I've got alot done though it was just that I was bouncing around back and forth from several tasks so I didn't really finnish anything in particular. Kind of the consequence of this is connected to that and this has to be designed along with that so its not in the way type stuff. I've got the diagonals in the engine bay all done except a removable one I will do after I pull the motor, engine mounts sufficiant that I can pull the motor now (still need to add some bracing). The rear suspension is designed and built on the drivers side. The motor is in the way of drilling the holes for the bellcrank on the passenger side. I need to pull the motor but I don't want it in the way on the floor...its time though 8) . I actually tried everything I could to use a traditional shock layout in the back and found a perfect motorcyle shock with a spring rate that would have worked but after looking for a month for one to come by on e-bay I gave up. I ended up useing a 97 yamaha yfz600 that Junior gave me. Thanks man! Of coarse buying another one was almost as much as the two R6 shocks I'll be using in the front :roll: but it kept me going. The pushrod, bellcrank and the shock are almost inline with eachother so I don't think side loading will be a problem with the delrin bushings in the bellcrank. I did have to put the rod end on the side of the bellcrank so I'll have to box it in to keep it from flexing. I also got the front pushrod designed. Both ends increase their wheel frequency by 10% in a nice gradual manor over the range of their travel. I'll determine if I need to go softer or harder befor I drill alternative mounting holes. I also picked up some wheels and tires for a steel off craigs list so I couldn't help but through them on and spin them by hand while turning the steering wheel and making noises. Moving parts really make the build exciting!


Attachments:
File comment: pivot for bellcranks
tubethoughatube.jpg
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rearsideview.jpg
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rearview.jpg
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makingcarnoises.jpg
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PostPosted: July 16, 2009, 8:54 pm 
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Joined: July 17, 2007, 12:09 am
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Wow have you come a long way. Believe me. Once you get it on the ground and it is a roller it will go a lot faster. From the time I had a roller to being drivable was about 4 months. But getting the the rolling stage is so hard. All the measurements and mounting is VERY time consuming to get right, but your doing great!

J. R.

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PostPosted: July 17, 2009, 1:27 am 
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Joined: October 23, 2007, 11:56 pm
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Location: Spanish Fork, UT
Thanks Junior, Ya the bulk of the frame seemed to just fly together-you could see it grow with every new tube. Brackets and all the little gussets and details are taking forever. I think I'll finnaly be done with the rear suspension/engine bay tonight then onto the front inboard shocks and the center tunnel then I think I'll be ready for finnal welding.

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PostPosted: August 1, 2009, 5:29 pm 
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Joined: October 23, 2007, 11:56 pm
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Location: Spanish Fork, UT
I've spent way too much of the last two weeks standing at my lathe! Finnished all the bushings, threaded rodend bungs, adapters and what not. I also pulled the motor and finnished all the braces and suspension in the rear. And finnaly finnished all the little details on my front upright and since I still get questions about them I'll post some more pictures.

Attachment:
uprightsfullview.jpg
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In this pic you can see the slots in the bottom of the steering arm as well as the stepped slot on the bottom of the plate that is welded into the top of the box section. This stepped slot is used to hold the nut for the top ball joint from turning. You can also see the crush tubes that were mentioned a few posts ago. And yes, the lower rod end is pointing out the wrong side. I got in a hurry to snap the pics.

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steeringarm.jpg
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Attachment:
upperrodendbushings.jpg
upperrodendbushings.jpg [ 210.26 KiB | Viewed 4571 times ]

Details of the steering arm attachment. Loosen 2 bolts, 2 nuts and upper balljoint bolt to ad or remove shims to adjust camber. Should have put a few shims in for the picture. The rod end is a 5/8" with reducers to use a 1/2" bolt. This gains more adjustment range. I also boxed in the back of the steering arm for more strength.

Attachment:
bottominsert.jpg
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The bottom insert needs a couple of pieces welded on for the nut to register against as a socket can't reach the nut with the crush tubes in the way.

Attachment:
threadedbung.jpg
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To maximise steering angle, I turned my own bungs then welded a nut on the inside end. Instead of useing a jam nut, a bolt is threaded into the welded nut and tighted against the rodend end. Anyone see any problems with this approach?

Now onto the front suspension and the center tunnel befor taking the chassis over to a friends for finnal welding. The duty cycle on my little HF welder would take me forever.

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PostPosted: August 7, 2009, 2:39 am 
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Joined: October 23, 2007, 11:56 pm
Posts: 270
Location: Spanish Fork, UT
Front shocks and bellcranks are all done! I love how the shocks look from the drivers seat. Can't wait to watch them move while driving. Going to add some lightness to the bellcranks eventually.


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8.6.09 001.jpg
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PostPosted: August 7, 2009, 3:41 pm 
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Joined: June 9, 2009, 12:10 pm
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When you do drive it, make sure the top of the rocker arms isn't bowing out. A small tab at the midpoint connecting the two plates would be enough to stabilize it if it's an issue.


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PostPosted: August 8, 2009, 2:15 am 
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Althogh the pushrod, bellcrank, and shock are all in a single plane and therefore "shouldn't" have side flex, I plan on boxing the rockers in. Now my rear bellcranks definatly need to be boxed in as I had to mount the pushrod on the side.

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PostPosted: August 8, 2009, 2:42 pm 
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I'm glad you're boxing them. What I'm talking about is similar to what happens when thin columns have to support high loads. Even though the load is passing through the centerline of the column, the column is unstable and may collapse sideways if the load is too high.


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PostPosted: August 13, 2009, 12:22 pm 
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Joined: February 24, 2009, 10:39 pm
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Motive, Are the rear chocks from a four wheeler? I have been considering shocks from a yfz450 for my middie build. 4.5 inches of travel, 300lb/in springs, double adjustable, and I think the later models have titanium springs.


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PostPosted: August 14, 2009, 11:07 pm 
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No the rear shocks are from a 97 yfz600. Its the pedesesor to the R6. They are a steel bodied shock and alot heavier than the aluminum R6 unit.

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PostPosted: September 8, 2009, 11:49 pm 
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Location: Spanish Fork, UT
Its a Rollin!!!!
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It felt like it was never going to get to this stage. And even with my friends Pimp a$$ miller welder it seemed like the finnal welding would never end. I can imagine doing it with my 20% duty cycle HF. Also borrowed a plasma to cut the floor and fuel tank material. Man I have to get one of those! I've read horror stories of the time, a blades and cutting wheels others have gone though. It took all of 10 minutes with the plasma and most of that was clamping the straight edge on the sheet.

I used 18 ga. for the floor. I thought I'd try to preheat the floor before welding then it would be tight when it cooled. Well it backfired! Its too large to get the whole sheet to an even temp so it would wave up like crazy. worked most of it out so oilcanning isn't "too" bad. :roll: Most of the floor was drilled then plug welded from the bottom. This works amazingly well as I didn't have burn though problems with the thin sheet. Also it transfered less heat into the sheet. I'm also sure I used alot less wire. If I were to do it again I'd possition the floor with lots of cletcos and use the plug weld technique again. I'm sure I could get an oilcan free floor. Live and learn.

I'm still waiting on the DOM for the pushrods and need to remount the rack. Then I'll tackle a rough alignment. I also need to figure out the front calipers while I got the use of the heavier welder. I'd like to use the front calipers off the caravan donor cause they fit the rotors and they are free but I'm not sure if they will work because pads have an ear that registers against a horn on the factory uprights. The pads also register against the caliper but I'm worried that they could still get pushed out of place and ripped off. Any thoughts on this?
Attachment:
File comment: caravan caliper and upright
roller.jpg
roller.jpg [ 209.79 KiB | Viewed 3627 times ]

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PostPosted: September 9, 2009, 8:22 pm 
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Joined: May 8, 2007, 9:50 am
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Happy Roller Day :mrgreen:

You've done some really cool stuff on this build already, can't wait for more.

That caliper design is goofy :ack:


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PostPosted: September 9, 2009, 10:27 pm 
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Congrats, keep up the good work.

Andrew

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