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We had a couple of those Morse cables fail in a similar fashion on FSAE cars. It seemed like having some sort of mechanical stop on the shift lever helped significantly with cable life.

Blue devil be sure to get vids at your autox,you know I won't be the only one wanting to see them.

a.moore,thanks for the info.I've built a cable guide and that seems to work well,I'll be gentle on the upshifts(for me thats pushing the cable) untill I can build a decent shifter stop.I only have this week(before the next events) so I don't want to butcher something in a rush,I have to reinstall the injectors I sent to be cleaned and then reassembly all the crap I had to remove for access to the injectors/cable replacement.
I just fixed my ackerman problem,well I think I fixed it so I'll redo the toe tomorrow-I build an alignment jig tonight that bolts to the car front and rear and holds the strings parallel with the chassis.

Well the last event of the year was stinking cold(barely above freezing AND windy)and my gopro batteries died so no decent video.Struggled with cold tires but otherwise all went well and I took FTD honours by a little over 3 seconds.

Can't wait for spring,warmer weather,proper slicks,some downforce and engine tuning for more power.

I forgot to post up a picture of the trailer so here it is.

Wow, man!
Your car is cool, I liked the vid
Seems like you're spending some time on steering corrections, maybe slightly wider rear tires are in order?

Speaking of tires, are these studed tires that I'm looking at in the trailer pic?
You're going ice racing or something?

Moti

+1 i want info!

Thanks for the kind words guys,the main reason for the lack of grip is its been damn cold up here in Ontario Canada for the only 2 events I've been out for.The 710's are simply too hard,the air/asphalt too cold and the car too light to get any heat in the tires so its very slick.I figured trying to tune the chassis to work with hard cold tires was a waste of time,I bought a set of used 8.5 lb Keizers for 20x8x13 hoosier slicks for next year-I don't expect to be making as many steering corrections then.
The reason for the studded tires(off the ice racer) is that I tried to minimize the lenght of time the R tires were in the cold as I'd like to use them for track days next year where I should be able to get some heat into them.

I've been ice racing for nearly 15 years,now that solo season is over the ice race car can come back to the shop to be prepped for this year.

This is ice racing for you california folks,I ran a civic last year for the class and overall championship titles.

Btw the flat black Geo with the white wheels at the start is my wife.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RRuEEVfqHxs

I fellow racer just sent me a picture from the last event,have a look and let me know what you think about the roll control.
The part of the lot that was taken on is quite banked(off camber)but it still looks to be rolling a bit too much and thats with nearly frozen tires-next year with fresh rubber in the right compound with summer temperatures and I think I'll be in trouble.
It certainly doesn't feel like it was rolling that much,I was trying to avoid having to use sway bars since I don't like them and they have to be custom fabbed.The springs(front) are the stiffest rate(400lb) you can get in the 1 7/8" diameter my dampers use.

Looks like you are going ICE racing? LOL

I wasn't kidding,its about 5 degrees above freezing in that shot.

I wouldn't worry about the roll yet. It doesn't look like too much. Those front springs are pretty stiff I think.

Are you afraid the frame will hit the ground or that it will be slow thru chicanes?

I'm sure you know there are a lot of tradeoffs, and I think it makes sense to get some more seat time and decide what order you want to improve things.

Congrats on your good finishes and getting a good original car together

I'm not really worried about the chassis grounding out but it could pose a problem next year I suppose as the shorter tires used will bring the car 3/4" closer to the ground and the high downforce wings being designed now have the potencial to add nearly 300lbs load front and rear @ 60mph.The real problem is I can't get any stiffer springs than whats on the car,I went with 1 7/8" springs and the stiffest spring possible is 400lb/in which is whats in the front and 350's rear.
Without checking my notes thats about 160lb wheel rate and high 2cps,if I need to add roll resistance with bars that won't help the vertical load with downforce.I honestly didn't think I'd need to go stiffer but I've been wrong about lots of stuff so its not new to me.

If this stuff was easy everyone would be into it right?


Btw thanks for compliments on the car,I'm pretty happy with it and getting to at least baseline it with "only" an 8 month build time is a pretty good thing.

Hyperco has 600# springs with 1.875 ID
http://www.hypercoils.com/PDF/page_15.pdf

10" is probably a little long for your setup, but making a shorter version with the same wire would only make it stiffer so it's not impossible to have a stiffer spring than what you have now, it just might have to be custom made, which I don't think is actually that expensive.

The car looks great by the way, I love the unique layout and it came together amazingly fast, congrats.

Thanks for the kind words Glen,I'd forgotten about hypercoil so thanks for the heads up.I'll test with the fresh rubber next spring and see if I need to go stiffer I check them out,I'd rather stick with a barless set-up if I can.

Had this vid from the sidelines sent to me,its not very good but what the hay.Engine is clearly not very happy on throttle lifts,going to pull the stock harness/ecu and ditch for a microsquirt tunable set-up before next season.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=he5lIK5WUus