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PostPosted: February 1, 2014, 9:10 am 
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JL You should not really need an expansion tank if you connect the rad over flow hose to a recovery tank. But I would use one of the Tee's that comes in a cooling flush kit and install it near the highest point of the heater core inlet or outlet hose. I would also drill an 1/8" hole in your thermostat to help with filling the cooling system to reduce the chance of an air-lock. In most builds the rad is not the highest point in the cooling system which makes filling it a problem. Dave W


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PostPosted: February 1, 2014, 2:56 pm 
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JL1 wrote:
I was just copying the stock setup

That's best, IMO. I messed around with overflow tanks and header tanks and expansion tanks and routing through the heater outlets and I couldn't keep coolant in the engine. I went back to the stock setup and it works great.

My main concern was that the top of the radiator was no longer the highest point in the system, and I thought I might need some kind of tank higher than that. Turns out it's not an issue, just need to have a way to fill the system. For me, that's a short pipe with a filler off the thermostat.


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PostPosted: February 13, 2014, 12:31 pm 
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Mhm wrote:
JL1 wrote:
One of the remaining items for the fuel system was a bulkhead to pass the in-tank fuel pump wires and sender through. I used a -8 AN fitting I had and planned to fill the void with JB Weld. I went to pick some up and right next to it found a JB Weld product called "Water Weld" designed to repair water and fuels leaks. I used it and hopefully it will work, time will tell.


I take it that JB Weld is a 2 part epoxy product, is it actually fuel prove?
Locally we get a Prattley 2 part epoxy and I've tried to use it on a model airplane fuel tank.
It didn't stand up to the fuel, but that is a mix of methanol, nitro-methane and castor oil.


I sure hope its fuel proof. Now that I read the package carefully it says "fuel resistant". I'll keep an eye on it and see if it holds up. I placed the bulkhead in the top of the fuel cell so the only pressure is from the fuel splashing around. I think I remember someone on here using it on there build, time will tell.

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PostPosted: February 13, 2014, 12:51 pm 
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I worked on the coolant hoses and discovered I could modify the two stock radiator hoses and make it work. I took the upper hose and cut the radiator end off and spliced a section from the lower hose. For the lower hose, I cut it in the middle and extended it with a section of 1 1/4" steel tube. This provided the extra length I needed as well as providing a location for the temperature sensor. On the stock setup, it's in the lower corner of the radiator but there are no provisions for that on my after market radiator. The threads on the temp sensor are the same as an 02 sensor, (M18x1.5, if I remember right) which I could buy as weld on bungs. I welded on the bung to the tube and everything came together. I ran some weld beads around the end to help secure the hoses to the tube. I'll add a clamp to the frame to help secure the steel tube from moving around too much, probably using the same bolt securing the steering rack.
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I just need to find a couple hoses to connect the heater core and I should have this system done. I plan to incorporate some kind of bleeder port near the heater core, since this is the highest part of the system. Also need an overflow tank, might have the donor one around somewhere.


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PostPosted: February 17, 2014, 1:42 am 
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Lookin good! I have a fill port up near my heater (prestone flush n fill) and it works great.

Does Honda put the temp sensor on the cold hose? Does that just control the fan, or does it affect engine mapping?

Love the motor start video! Why dance *behind*the camera?

-Dave

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PostPosted: February 20, 2014, 12:43 pm 
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The flush n fill kit you mentioned Dave is exactly what I was looking for. That should make for an easy way to fill and bleed the system. I looked closer at the stock setup and there is schrader valve in one of the aluminum tubes going to the heater core at the highest point in the system.

The temp sensor I put in the lower radiator hose is what Honda uses to turn the fan on/off, originally in the lower part of the radiator.

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PostPosted: February 20, 2014, 1:00 pm 
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I worked on the exhaust system hoping the next engine start won't be so loud. I tried to find an actual muffler, not one of those glass packs, that is the right size and provides a decent sound. I ended up picking out the HushPower II muffler from Flowmaster, PN 12518400. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/hsh-12518400/overview/ I have a feeling this is still going to be too loud with the F20C but should be a good start. I thought about adding a catalytic converter for a little while but didn't. If I need to quiet it down some, I may add one or a resonator before the muffler. For mounting, I could of went the easy way and used the traditional donut hanger from above but I wanted to hide the mounts below. Here is what I ended up with.
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I found these rubber mounts at Summit, Walker hangers 35182 http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wlk-35182/overview/ and made a bracket to clamp them. I then made a u-shaped plate welded to the exhaust to fit in the center slot. This should support the weight well and still allow for some movement. I put one in front of and behind the muffler. I wanted to weld the muffler to the exhaust but the muffler is stainless and the tubing is mild steel. I'll get a couple nice SS band clamps at some point. I still need to trim the exhaust tip as well, when I decide what angle I want.
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PostPosted: February 20, 2014, 1:55 pm 
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Add the stock cat back into the system, you won't lose any power and you will gain a little quiet.

I've played with mufflers on an S and the hushpower will not be quiet by any stretch of the imagination, of course I don't know how quiet you're looking for.

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PostPosted: February 20, 2014, 2:45 pm 
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carguy123 wrote:
I've played with mufflers on an S and the hushpower will not be quiet by any stretch of the imagination, of course I don't know how quiet you're looking for.

What have you found to be the most quiet on the F20C without sacrificing much power? I don't have a set db level to hit, but something that can be driven on the street for short periods without ear plugs, and without drawing too much attention to myself. Longer drives I'll most likely wear ear plugs. I just hate annoyingly loud exhausts, on both my motorcycles I have kept the stock mufflers for this reason.

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PostPosted: February 20, 2014, 3:15 pm 
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I and most S2000 guys have gone back to the stock double pass mufflers. But it's probably too big for the Locost, unless you add an exhaust cover down the side. None of the straight through mufflers have worked at all. The Hushpower wasn't one of the quieter of the mufflers.

No one that I know has found a good alternative that doesn't have a horrible drone.

Also replicate the dongle on the stock exhaust to help eliminate the dongle.

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PostPosted: November 17, 2014, 11:37 am 
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Well, time flies without much progress. I'm sure everyone can relate to distractions and other things getting in the way of building. I have been stuck on the wiring and have a hard time getting motivated about that. So, to fix that, I buy more stuff :).
I got some headlights, 4.5 in black ones from J&P Cycles, PN 308-411. I wanted something a little more modern looking but these will work. They have high/low and a seperate built in running light. I made some mounts off the main tubes rails and came out pretty good. I also got some generic LED motorcycle turn signals that I mounted below the headlights. They are smaller than I expected but I'll see if they give me any trouble during the inspection.
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I also got some aftermarket motorcycle mirrors with built in LED turn signals. I think they are for late model Suzuki GSXR's. The field of view might not be the best but the price and look were right.
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Hopefully I'll get more accomplished in the next few months since the weather has turned cold and I'll be stuck in the house more.


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PostPosted: November 18, 2014, 11:08 am 
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WIRES, Yup that is a lot of wires! And you've got them running down both sides of car. I don't blame you, I needed a break just looking at all of them. :lol: Keep us posted on the progress. Dave W


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PostPosted: January 12, 2015, 2:11 pm 
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Work continues on the wiring trimming out unnecessary circuits from the donor harness. I won't scare you with more pics, nothing exciting. I did use the excuse that I needed to locate and mount the ECU and fuse block in the scuttle area so I started on some sheet metal. I bought three sheets of .040" 3003 half hard and one sheet of .065" 3003. The .040" will be used for interior panels, scuttle, and dash. The .065" for the floor. It was interesting hauling the 4' x 10' sheets home in my S10 truck. I made some cardboard patterns and then used the HF electric shears to cut out the panels. The shears worked better than expected and only issue are some minor waves in the edges from me not holding a straight line. They did sometimes leave some scratches on the edge of the panel though. I started with the panels on the bottom of the scuttle. I made the center section removable to access the heater core below. I installed some riv nuts in the tubes for that.
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I was excited to work on something different than wiring so I continued by fabbing the dash panel and bezel for the gauge pod. I plan to paint or cover the dash in fabric so it won't be so bright and reflective. The gauge surround came out pretty well and just need to figure out the attachment method. I folded over the rear edge of the gauge panel by using the tried and true annealing method of burning off the sharpie marks. First time I've tried that and the aluminum becomes very pliable and easy to bend.
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One step closer...

James


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PostPosted: January 12, 2015, 2:43 pm 
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Dash is looking great,James. :cheers:

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PostPosted: January 12, 2015, 4:08 pm 
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Bonus points for that tach cover. :cheers:
Dave W


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