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PostPosted: October 17, 2011, 2:15 am 
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Joined: October 15, 2011, 2:04 pm
Posts: 5
Location: Mission, British Columbia.
Newbie question #2 - Has anyone designed a bolt-on rollcage that can be removed to allow for easier road-driving? I'd like to have a permanent rollbar but be able to remove some of the cage that's needed to be a legal track-ready racer. Some of the cages are very elaborate too, so we're investigating the minimum needs to pass race tech.

James - Mission, BC


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PostPosted: October 17, 2011, 7:48 am 
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Joined: October 8, 2011, 3:53 pm
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Location: Niagara Falls, ON.
Great question! I'd like to know that too... open cars need a "full cage" a lot "earlier" than sedans under some rules and at some tracks, and it seems easy to be "too fast" on the drag strip. But they're fugly and I can see beating my brains out on one getting in and out on a regular basis.

The one bonus is I guess, it's a ready made frame for a canvas top.

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DD#1 '95 Ford Escort Wagon 1.9 Auto, self PnPed stage 2-3ish head, 11ish CR, Airhog panel filter, awaiting headers and intake mods. ~110-120 BDHP
DD#2 '88 Plymouth Voyager, 3.0 Auto, shift kitted, alloys, walker exhaust, timing advance. Awaiting PnP heads. ~150 BDHP


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PostPosted: October 17, 2011, 8:19 am 
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Joined: July 17, 2008, 9:11 am
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Location: West Chicago,IL
By using the "search" function and the words "bolt" "roll" & "cage", I found a great looking example of a fully removable cage.

viewtopic.php?f=33&t=1872&hilit=bolt+on+roll+cage

By using this method, you would have to build a separate roll bar for street use. Check the roll cage requirements in your favorite (NASA, SCCA, Local Club) Competition Rules handbook. They will describe the acceptable methods for mounting removable sections of the cage.

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PostPosted: October 17, 2011, 8:29 am 
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Joined: October 8, 2011, 3:53 pm
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Location: Niagara Falls, ON.
I was digging around and coming to that conclusion about needing both a cage and a separate removable street "cagelet" or roll hoop. There doesn't seem to be any way you can bolt the hoops together, need to be one piece.

This might be useful info... http://corp.advanceautoparts.com/englis ... ble%20Bars

I guess you could rig it to have a permanent hoop independant from the bolt in race cage, but then you're carrying 100lb of steel more than you need to on race day.

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traynee rockit serjun

DD#1 '95 Ford Escort Wagon 1.9 Auto, self PnPed stage 2-3ish head, 11ish CR, Airhog panel filter, awaiting headers and intake mods. ~110-120 BDHP
DD#2 '88 Plymouth Voyager, 3.0 Auto, shift kitted, alloys, walker exhaust, timing advance. Awaiting PnP heads. ~150 BDHP


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PostPosted: October 17, 2011, 11:00 am 
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Instead of listening to us, go to the source: http://cms.scca.com/documents/2011%20Tech/2011%20GCR-printed%20version.pdf

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PostPosted: October 17, 2011, 11:37 am 
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Joined: October 8, 2011, 3:53 pm
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Location: Niagara Falls, ON.
Mayyybe there is an SCCA legal way of doing it then, looking at pages 109-110...

Weld in the back hoop, bolt in the front hoop with bolt on braces...

I'd wanna go over NHRA and ECTA and possibly FIA rules as well... being a case of I'd wanna do any and every kind of motorsport in it, tarmac rallies, drags, solo, road course, hillclimbs, speed trials ... ... ...

Thinking of the front hoop and that thread linked above where he's got the cage outside the cockpit (which is cramped enough I take it on a standard build) I am wondering about maybe some tubes welded across the bottom of the car to mount it that would double as mounting points for running boards or pannier boxes in touring trim.

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traynee rockit serjun

DD#1 '95 Ford Escort Wagon 1.9 Auto, self PnPed stage 2-3ish head, 11ish CR, Airhog panel filter, awaiting headers and intake mods. ~110-120 BDHP
DD#2 '88 Plymouth Voyager, 3.0 Auto, shift kitted, alloys, walker exhaust, timing advance. Awaiting PnP heads. ~150 BDHP


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PostPosted: October 18, 2011, 12:01 am 
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Joined: October 15, 2011, 2:04 pm
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Location: Mission, British Columbia.
Thanks muchly for the effort in your replies; we'll keep researching this one and perhaps bring in the SCCBC (British Columbia) tech reps to pick their brains on this. Will probably pick up an RX-7 rear end tomorrow which will then give us some parameters for the rest of the car. Cheers


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PostPosted: October 18, 2011, 7:18 am 
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Location: Niagara Falls, ON.
Tube size.... I just noticed on another thread, that in situations where rules are developed for "normal" cars the minimum tube size might be 1.5" unlike the SCCA rules where you can use a smaller size tube in sub 1700lb vehicles. So in pursuit of maximum compliance, then erring on the side of bigger is probably wiser, at the expense though of a weight penalty under formulas that let you have smaller tubes.

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traynee rockit serjun

DD#1 '95 Ford Escort Wagon 1.9 Auto, self PnPed stage 2-3ish head, 11ish CR, Airhog panel filter, awaiting headers and intake mods. ~110-120 BDHP
DD#2 '88 Plymouth Voyager, 3.0 Auto, shift kitted, alloys, walker exhaust, timing advance. Awaiting PnP heads. ~150 BDHP


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PostPosted: October 18, 2011, 7:34 am 
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Joined: October 28, 2009, 8:37 am
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Location: Willow Grove Pa.
I have no idea of the rules but I have used this style connector for my rear cage. Just make sure you line them up for removal.
http://www.appletreeauto.com/VW-FABRICA ... ONNECTORS/
DWP


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