LocostUSA.com

Recently I was discussing my locost build with a sales person (most likely trying to sell me one of his cars, rightfully so after all that is his job) and he had made a comment on three different occasions that a locost can never be as good as one of the companies that build a licensed 7. While this did not offend me, it did however give pause as to how good my build will be as compared to one of these cars, with respect to handling and durability.

My question is for those of you who have driven the licensed 7 and a locost and how did they stack up? Obviously you cannot pit a Cat CSR with a motorsport engine against a pinto powered book chassis, but with respect to fit and finish of the typical locost build for track day / street use vs similarly outfitted Cat or Birk.

I can't tell if you expect a real answer or are just bating people. Can an individual can build something better that a factory? Yes, there will always be "some" people who can. What else can be said?

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Midlana book: Build this mid-engine Locost!, http://midlana.com/stuff/book/
Kimini book: Designing mid-engine cars using FWD drivetrains
Both available from https://www.lulu.com/

Kurt's right. Some people have the talent and resources to build cars that are nicer or better in some way(s). Production facilities always have the bean counter/red tape challenges that individuals can be immune too. It's a different playground with different rules.

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Peace, Ron

If you have to ask the question then the store built car is for you.

There was no bating within this question ... I think the car I am building will include enough adjustment availablity in the suspension geometry as well as the changes to chassis stiffness that the car should be better than I can drive.

However, I am not one to be so confident to say my car can stand side by side with a factory car without question. Also, I am always amazed at how much I do not know (not just building cars but in my business and personal life too).

The OP was simply a way to ask "is there something I'm missing" with respect to a locost vs factory built cars.

I would say the average "finished" first Locost would have a performance envelope lower than a factory car where the factory has built a large number and had time to work out the bugs and establish a good base line.

I would say that on the average sorted track car there wouldn't be a hill of beans difference.

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mobilito ergo sum
I drive therefore I am

I can explain it to you,
but I can't understand it for you.

Thanks carguy that is what my thinking too but was looking for the opinions of others.

I would say that it depends on the vision of the builder and the budget! if the locost is built with a lot of technique and budget, it would not be suprising that it outshine a CSR or a R500... after a few month of debugging and ajustement!

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Making a Deman SR27 lapping and street car
Any question on driveshaft, i will be more than happy to answer!

Oooh, harsh.I agree. As a general rule, I think the typical Locost is not "as good" as the typical Caterham, but......that's a crock. If someone asked me "Would you rather have a Locost, or a Caterham?" I'd say a Caterham, but if they asked "Would you rather have a $40,000 Locost, or a $40,000 Caterham?" I'd shout "The Locost!" and jump up and down with glee. Ditto if someone asked, "Would you rather have four Locosts, or one Caterham?", or "Would you rather have a Locost and a van and a pickup, or a Caterham?" Heck, in my case, it's be "Would you rather have a Locost and a house, or a Caterham?" and yeah, I like my $30,000 house and my $10,000 Locost so I'd say the former.

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Locost builder and adventurer, and founder (but no longer owner) of Kinetic Vehicles

Your thread title is: "Locost vs factory 7s on the track"

I didn't answer this question earlier because : 1) I've never driven an "official" licensed 7; 2) nor, owned a race car and spent hours driving on a track; or 3) seen a lot of track day Locosts in person. So, I didn't feel qualified to compare and contrast the things you've asked about. However, the answers have strayed far enough from the original questions now that I can't do much harm now by adding my own 2 cents worth. I hope they'll be seen in the positive light intended.

From your time on these forums, I think you'll agree that a small number of the amateur men building Locosts here can produce work equal to that of a Caterham type organization. It's not all of us, though. The answer to your question really depends on your personal commitment, I think. If you have ultimately committed yourself to producing a Locost the equal of a commercial car, I believe you can. It might be 2 years after your build is complete and you have developed the daylights out of your Locost. Or, it might be through your second design after you have made all your mistakes on your first Locost and figured out what it really takes to make the performer of your dreams through your second design.

I think it all starts in your head. But it takes things like commitment, sticking to things, making mistakes and figuring out how to overcome them, clearly defining your goal(s) and having a realistic, but flexible plan to achieve them.

Personally, my view for my own Locost efforts are that the fit, finish and performance of my $10,000-$15,000 Locost will be vastly superior to the $70,000 Caterham I'll never, ever own. Best of luck to you with your own efforts.

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886

Not that I'd recommend either of these choices, but......
I'd rather take a $7K Locost off track than take a $70K Caterham off track. My guess is that they have equal chances to be off track. Plus, I'd hazard a guess that most Caterham owners wouldn't repair their own cars. They'd have to buy the parts, wait for them to show up, then pay someone to repair it. The Locost builder would just go down to the store and buy some more tubing, fiberglass and aluminum.

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Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

An answer to your question, generated in a reasonably scientific fashion, can be found in this DVD.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B003CS2JH4/r ... _M3C_dp_i1

Only a couple of DVD's left on Amazon. Mine arrived in the mail yesterday but I haven't had a chance to watch it yet...but the description sure sounds good!!

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Bill H
Winnipeg, MB, Canada

Thanks guys for the replies. I should say that this dealer conversation came within a couple hours after I realized that I had not taken the time to measure twice and weld once. The front suspension pick-up points were an eighth to a quarter inch off where they were supposed to be located and the welding did not look as good as I had hoped.

As one of you mentioned go buy more tubing and that is what I have done.

I have set high standards for this car.

Not to mention I get to test a caterham this weekend.

Out of curiosity which provenience was the dealer with?
My experience and understanding with 7 type cars is that you have to hunt them down.
either way its been said before that the exact build and manufacturer isn't that important; so long as its a seven-type-car

Bill,

You will definitely have to do a "book report" on that DVD for us.

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886