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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: February 2, 2015, 8:01 pm 
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Been into the locost idea for a minute, first thought a diesel powered middy tourer would be fun but now I'm looking at it as an avenue into motorsport.

But so much can be done. When building to a rulebook there really is usually ONE hot setup, so let's start basic. This thread might really take 2-3 years to mature into something really useful but its gotta start somewhere.

First off I'd like to start with a chassis.

Many of the links in the kits section are broken, what ARE the readily available options and what are the pros and cons?

I'll be doing my own research here too, but the more heads the better.

Seems miata is a popular choice with some suspension tuning information already well established.

Alright then, let's ave at this shall we?


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PostPosted: February 3, 2015, 12:03 am 
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I don't know if there is a 'hot setup' for Locosts in NASA ST2. Best place to look in the USA for Locost racecar ideas would probably be SCCA Solo II. I also don't think a kit chassis is going to be nearly as competitive as a purpose built chassis. Top competition cars typically offset the engine and transmission to the passenger side, and move them rearward, to the point that the original tunnel is no longer viable...Nor is the passenger seat space.

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PostPosted: February 3, 2015, 1:47 pm 
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By hot setup I meant the one with the best/cheapest body part availability, best unaltered stock aero etcetera. Obviously an oversized chassis isn't gonna be the best, and middy styles get a big penalty at lower weights. (If they'd even allow it in)

The one seven we saw running at pacific certainly had a passenger seat and the ballast was offset, not the motor and drivetrain.

What I'm more of less asking is of the people who do race, what do ya got, what are your thoughts on it, and if you were building it again on about the same budget, what major components would you have done differently?

One guys build was running a bike motor on a sequential tranny.

I was originally thinking mid mount civic ex gear but once again, in planning to the class rules this seemed an unwise route.

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PostPosted: February 3, 2015, 2:03 pm 
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Am I posting this in the wrong spot? Just noticed the racing section was in "after the build". Mods plz feel free to relocate

Been dorking out on stuff like this thread:

viewtopic.php?f=5&t=4386

And http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtop ... &start=405

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PostPosted: February 3, 2015, 4:51 pm 
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https://www.nasaproracing.com/rules

Download NASA class rules here


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PostPosted: February 3, 2015, 7:53 pm 
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What part of the country are you planning on racing in? You might want to fill out your location in your profile.

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PostPosted: February 3, 2015, 10:45 pm 
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Done!! Closest tracks are bremerton, pacific, and the ridge (Shelton)

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PostPosted: February 4, 2015, 3:01 am 
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In refreshing my memory on the rules, I don't think the noticeably modified engine location would allow the car to retain it's "production" allowance. My interpretation is that they would be looking for traditional appearing Lotus 7/Locost type frames for this...So there goes that idea.

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PostPosted: February 4, 2015, 4:58 am 
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Aero with a 7? :rofl:
OK, all kidding aside the 7 is specifically listed in the ST2 rules.
Quote:
With Modification Factor Models:
Allison Legacy = -0.2 (ST1 & ST2), and = -0.5 (ST3)
Baby Grand = -0.2 (ST1 & ST2), and = -0.5 (ST3)
Backdraft Cobra RT3 (TD, hardtop, or any aero mods) = -0.2 (ST1 & ST2), and = -0.5 (ST3)
Brunton Stalker (no aero) = -0.2 (ST1 & ST2), and = -0.4 (ST3)
Caterham 7, Lotus 7, Westfield Super 7 (no aero) = -0.2 (ST1 & ST2), and = -0.4 (ST3)
Exomotive Exocet (no aero/wing/splitter) = -0.2 (ST1 & ST2), and = -0.4 (ST3)
Ferrari 430, 458 Challenge = -0.2 (ST1 & ST2) (may have additional Aero/Body mods)
Factory Five Roadster (if any aero mods, wing, or splitter) = -0.2 (ST1 & ST2), and = -0.5 (ST3)
Factory Five Type 65 Coupe = -0.2 (ST1 & ST2), and = -0.5 (ST3)
Lotus 2-Eleven = -0.2 (ST1 & ST2), and = -0.5 (ST3)
MNR VortX RT (no aero) = -0.2 (ST1 & ST2), and = -0.4 (ST3)
Panoz GTRA & GTWC = -0.2 (ST1 & ST2), and = -0.5 (ST3) (may have additional Aero mods)
Panoz GTS = -0.3 (ST1 & ST2), and = -0.6 (ST3) (may have additional Aero mods)
Porsche 991 GT3 Cup = -0.2 (ST1 & ST2) (may have additional Aero mods)
Pro Challenge = -0.2 (ST1 & ST2), and = -0.5 (ST3)
Thunder Roadster ('08+ aero body/wing type) = -0.2 (ST1 & ST2), and = -0.4 (ST3) (may have
additional Aero mods including wing removal)
Note: Future “Production” status approved vehicles and any associated Modification Factor will
be posted on the http://www.nasaforums.co m website in the Super Touring section.

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PostPosted: February 4, 2015, 5:27 am 
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While a middie 7 isn't specifically listed, NASA will many times work with you to create a class for you to run in. In that respect they are light years ahead of SCCA.

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PostPosted: February 4, 2015, 7:24 pm 
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Well I'm not stuck on the middy idea. Just wanna start examining the pros and con's of different designs for this kind of build.

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PostPosted: February 4, 2015, 8:59 pm 
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There is an additional adjustment for mid engine in the PRODUCTION regs but at that point you are at a serious p/wr defecit in a car that is already challenged on the straights.

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PostPosted: February 4, 2015, 11:05 pm 
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Jack McCornack at Kinetic Vehicles has one or more bodywork kits for full bodies on a Locost. His tkae on a Lola MK I has very low drag. It will do over 90 on 35 HP. They should let you run, but as soon as you start beating the door slammers, they will raise a howl...

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PostPosted: February 5, 2015, 1:07 pm 
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http://www.kineticvehicles.com

Yeah this is a great site!! Its what made me fall for the diesel middy idea in the first place. TDI or old rabbit diesel was the original idea... Not gonna fly for racing though.

Looks like I'm either gonna be planning on a rotary n/a with its associated power penalty (cheap, not ideal) or more ideal, a sub 1.9l reciprocating engine which would allow a POSITIVE p/w r adjustment.

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PostPosted: February 6, 2015, 1:44 pm 
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So would a bike engine or a 1.8l miata motor be a better choice? Or would I be better off to just take the penalty for a bigger motor and use something in the 2-2.5l class to have good torque?

I could see an old mustang motor built for circle track being durable, or a 2.4 sohc Nissan truck motor comes to mind. Either could be cammed to limit hp and would have broad torque compared to a rotary, or a smaller motor.

And honestly, besides a miata I can't think of much that's less than 1.9l, common, and rwd....

Which I guess is good if Mazda based running gear is what's up.

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