Cory,
I was looking through Carroll Smith's book, "Tune to Win" for information on anti-roll bars for my own build. I found some diagnostic information that might be helpful to you. He only has oversteer on entry and oversteer on exit as categories. You spoke of mid-turn oversteer as I recall, but here's what he has for entry, the better fit, I thought, since you're not out of the turn.
Attachment:
Carroll Smith Text.jpg
Going back to the inclinometer and body roll, I understand 2 degrees is a good target for maximum roll angle, but less is better. I have it in my notes, but did not write down the source.
Knowing if the front and rear roll at different rates is helpful. The best explanation I've heard in layman's terms is (paraphrasing) "If you conceptually think of dividing the mass of the vehicle into two parts, front and rear, you want them to roll together at the same rate, not different rates."
If you envision a plane through your car's center of gravity, perpendicular to the roll axis, you can think of a rear mass handled through the rear suspension, and a front mass handled through the front suspension. If the resistance of one end is significantly different (easier, say) that the other, the the stiffer end will receive forces that should be handled by the other, "easier" end of the vehicle. That should show up in the roll angles front and rear, if the imbalance is actually there.
I found that explanation appealed to me, anyway.
Cheers,