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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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 Post subject: Re: DM weights and 7s and clones.
PostPosted: Fri Apr 24, 2009 3:15 pm 
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Would it work? Who knows? Here' some pics of the heads:


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File comment: Miata 1.6 and 1.3 Festiva head comparison
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 Post subject: Re: DM weights and 7s and clones.
PostPosted: Fri Apr 24, 2009 10:00 pm 
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One problem that I already spot is that the port on the miata head that oil pressure goes through to feed the cams isn't in the same place on the festiva head - I can't find it on the festiva head, but it's not in the same place as the miata.

Fred, I vote for a motor with a small roots blower and a medium sized turbo running on methanol :twisted:

Moti

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 Post subject: Re: DM weights and 7s and clones.
PostPosted: Sat Apr 25, 2009 12:24 am 
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Yhea Moti !!!That`s the way of thinking :shock:

It`s D-...........MODIFIED

There`s so much you can do it`s a perfect class for a car builder/designer... The Aero is not as much of a concern as A-mod... Lets just hope that the rule makers keep out of screwing things for the next few years...

I just read that the new Audi 1.8 Turbo for the William F2 makes 400HP at around 8700RPM, and has been tested for 24H runs. Because the new F2 has a serious budget cap, it`s not full of exotic pieces... This convinces me that 280-300 HP is achievable out of a 1.3-1.4L turbo D-mod motor... Actually my Solo 2 buddy has been preaching this to me for the last 6 months... :oops:

I`m still surpised that nobody is running Full aluminium suspension ( uprights, A-Arms, Bellcrank etc.) and swiss cheese scallops disc made out of aluminium of course, the rules don`t allow anything lighter... I mean it`s Solo 2 for crying out load, you ain't gonna run more than 1 hour or two a year... Technically you should trow away those pieces anyway at the end of the year... Build the car for 90 sec runs not the 24H of LeMans... I wouldn't use a Locost chassis, but go down to the Lotus 7... Smaller the chassis, smaller the car can be and ligther. I don`t know what I was thinking when I started my locost back in 2006 ( it was suppose to be for solo 2)... The pinto spindle, were not the correct choice, too big, too heavy, nor going to a solid axle at the back... Neither is having 2 seats...

Yhea I`m still a Solo 2 guys at heart, this as the reason I started my build, but the local scene is pretty much dismal, and keeps getting worst every year and I drifted away, both myself and my build from Solo 2.

I`m going down to Lincoln this year... It`s more of a road trip than going to compete... 2 guys, 1 STS CRX, 22Hrs from Montreal to Lincoln, plenty of RedBull and Beef Jerky, nope were are not towing, it should be interesting :ack:

I have to admitt that a Turbo 1.3 L D-mod is one heck of a challenge, plus it would be in the opposite direction of the current thinking.

Cheers,

Fred


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 Post subject: Re: DM weights and 7s and clones.
PostPosted: Sat Apr 25, 2009 2:02 am 
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Jawfish wrote:
I`m still surpised that nobody is running Full aluminium suspension ( uprights, A-Arms, Bellcrank etc.) and swiss cheese scallops disc made out of aluminium of course, the rules don`t allow anything lighter... I mean it`s Solo 2 for crying out load, you ain't gonna run more than 1 hour or two a year... Technically you should trow away those pieces anyway at the end of the year... Build the car for 90 sec runs not the 24H of LeMans...

Fred


The suspension you're describing was semi-successfully used on Scott McQueen's bugeye that's since been rebuilt and campaigned by Jeff Kiesel. It's won E-Mod championships for both owners.

The front suspension arms were so flimsy I'd swear that Scott made them from discarded lawn furniture tubing.

Semi-successfull because under hard braking at Forbes Field the arms collapsed and dropped the front of the car on the ground. A quickie overnight repair got the car back to the grid for day two, but the loss of runs after the failure cost Scott a championship that year.

Take a look at Whittlebeast's A-Mod car. It's not aluminum, but it all well built, minimum weight, uprights and arms both built from tubing.


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 Post subject: Re: DM weights and 7s and clones.
PostPosted: Sat Apr 25, 2009 2:04 am 
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If you want to run a 1.3 16v turbo, I'd start with the Suzuki engine. The Festiva block is too massive and heavy for a 1.3 engine.


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 Post subject: Re: DM weights and 7s and clones.
PostPosted: Sat Apr 25, 2009 9:59 am 
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Thanks for the info Modernbeat,

I`ll admitt I`ve looked at mainly the D-mods and not the E-mods... But I`m definetly going to try to have a good look at Jeff Kiesels car this year, with a camera :D

Yhea might be wise to compare the strengt and rigidity of Steel vs Aluminium for some components... I know how not to do it... My build is a perfect example how not to... I know it`s a balance between lightness and rigidity... We both know that the grip level at Forbes was amazing... I never encountered anything that high. How's Peru ? This makes developement a bitch since you can`t reproduce the tracks condition on a regular basis... Most lots in a 4 hour radius are just low grip, sandy asphalt.... Not the best playground to stress test components :ack:

One thing is for sure If I ever bring the Locost to Lincoln it would be with a brand new front suspention, smaller brakes all around and without the cage. It would still be far away from my Perfect D-mod Se7en... I know we have a redesign planned for Marc`s car next winter ( Canadian winters are so long and boring) :evil:

Yes the Whistlebeast A-mod has some good pointers and this is why I have a folder of pictures of the car :mrgreen:

I`m thinking engine wise a destroke 4 AGE sivertop 20V.... The VTT could help lower RPM torque. mated to a T40, or a modified T50.

Cheers

Fred


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 Post subject: Re: DM weights and 7s and clones.
PostPosted: Sat Apr 25, 2009 2:28 pm 
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Here's a shot in the dark - VW has (at least in Europe) their 1.4L TSI twincharged motor, yep, a 1.4L that's already turbocharged and supercharged.
I have no idea what kind of power potential the thing has, but this will be an interesting starting point and it already comes at the right displacement.
Link to an article.

Moti

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 Post subject: Re: DM weights and 7s and clones.
PostPosted: Sun Apr 26, 2009 9:24 pm 
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I wonder whats the weight of the whole package... Did I read right 2.5bar of pressure, isn't like 36 lbs of boost ?

Fred


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 Post subject: Re: DM weights and 7s and clones.
PostPosted: Thu Apr 30, 2009 1:00 pm 
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Jawfish wrote:
I wonder whats the weight of the whole package... Did I read right 2.5bar of pressure, isn't like 36 lbs of boost ?

Fred

It's probably a GDI car. I they don't have to worry about pre-ignition.


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 Post subject: Re: DM weights and 7s and clones.
PostPosted: Thu Apr 30, 2009 10:07 pm 
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My worry is how would you take if from 170 hp to 280-300 ? How much pressure could you build it up ?

The concept is cool, but I`m affraid it wouldn`t make the cut due to weight... If I were to build a turbo D-mod, I`d like to come in below minimum weight by at least 200 lbs, in order to place the ballast to redristibute the weight and lower the center of gravity.

Me and the Small boy`s ( my two Solo 2 buddies) are trowing some wild concepts, when we're bored, and some pretty crazy things have been trown around. After weighing my chassis, I`d say that for a D-Mod car, Id like to have 200lbs as a target weight without the floor, I have some ideas to get there, but I`m not there completly there.

Cheers,

Fred


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 Post subject: Re: DM weights and 7s and clones.
PostPosted: Thu Apr 30, 2009 11:51 pm 
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Location: Sunny-Okanagan, Canada, eh?!
My chassis was 200lbs, complete, without the floor.

G

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 Post subject: Re: DM weights and 7s and clones.
PostPosted: Fri May 01, 2009 1:10 pm 
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I think the way to do it is to replace the turbo and move more volume, not to raise the pressure.
Also, 200 lbs for a D-mod frame should be totally doable, there's no need for a w2w cage, and that alone should drop some 70+ lbs comparing to your typical mod class roll cage / bar.
Combine that with a smaller frame that is closer in size to Lotus 7 and you're in good shape, in fact, I have a feeling it can be done to finish the frame even lighter.

Moti

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 Post subject: Re: DM weights and 7s and clones.
PostPosted: Fri May 01, 2009 1:51 pm 
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200 lbs... Ok this is good...

I agree with a Lotus 7 chassis, it smaller so it's got the advantage of size and weight for Solo 2...

Yup no crazy cage, just a multi point rollbar... one design to increase chassis rigidity... I think your right that it could be done under 200lbs ...

Fred


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 Post subject: Re: DM weights and 7s and clones.
PostPosted: Mon May 04, 2009 12:16 am 
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Blackbird wrote:
Fred, I vote for a motor with a small roots blower and a medium sized turbo running on methanol :twisted:

Moti


Best you can do in scca solo II is E85 for fuel. Must be street legal fuel (race gas is fine for prepared/modified.)

Also, stiffness and setup is more important than meeting minimum weight for most D-mod races. It can be a pain to get heat into tires and that little extra weight can help get you there. If you are building it as a solo only national caliber winner, offset the engine and move it back to just ahead of centerline and build to the letter of the law....fuel in under a bulkhead where the passenger normally sits, move the radiator back.... It will gain you more than just making 200 lbs under weight.


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 Post subject: Re: DM weights and 7s and clones.
PostPosted: Mon May 04, 2009 12:57 am 
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Mike I agree stiffness is a prime concern hence working with the cage and floor...

AS for heat in the tire my main concern in Solo 2 is not getting heat in the tires... But running a tire size that will build up heat. I personnally think that a lot of Solo 2 cars are often overtired, i.e. having too wide tires. If you can't get heat in the tire, go smaller... a Narrower car will be faster in Solo 2, a lighter car will accelerate, turn and brake better than a heavier car. Being under minimum weight will help you distribute the weight around to get the optium ballance that you are aiming for, but also help you lower the center of gravity, since you can use the floor as a ballast. Again I`m in agreement with as for engine placement it should be offset and set back, to achieve your weight distribution. Right from the getgo my concept would be for driver only, no passenger... I would probably place the fuel, battery ? and ice box in the passenger space...

We`ve been working at a concept as a whole not just the engine or weight or chassis in regards to a Turbo D-mod Se7en, I guess trying to explain or talk about some parts of the concept might not make some sense... Yhea I know one day I`ll have to put my money where my mouth is, but right now it`s just too much cash to drive 22 hrs per direction to run less 8 minutes over 2 days :oops:

Cheers,

Fred


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