LocostUSA.com

Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
It is currently November 24, 2017, 3:22 am

All times are UTC - 5 hours [ DST ]




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 27 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1, 2
Author Message
PostPosted: February 5, 2017, 10:26 pm 
Offline

Joined: February 8, 2014, 10:47 pm
Posts: 427
Location: Cornholio OR "Where the magic happens"
zetec7 wrote:

My buddy insisted my cooling system wasn't going to work, that I needed a remote pressurized expansion tank, a remote filler neck, see-through bleed-nipple adapter, dual chrome-lined reverse de-coupling framulators, cooling-inversion gespatcho-stimulator modules, and a bunch of other stuff I didn't understand. :shock:

Then, I pointed out that my radiator cap is already the highest point in my cooling system, so if it worked in the original Ford Focus with nothing more than an overflow bottle, it ought to work for me, too, right? See - I'm learning!


It's not so much the cap location, it's more about if there are any spots higher than the top hose inlet of the radiator (if the cap is on the radiator).

I believe that on many of the Locost builds the radiator inlet is not the highest point in the cooling system.

In these situations a surge tank or remote cap at the highest point. A few inches higher than the head.

I also feel it is important to eliminate all air from the cooling system if possible to stop foaming (aeration) and help limit corrosion.

_________________
Feels like I'm on the last train,
rolling on cracked wheels,
and Hillary is the engineer!


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: February 6, 2017, 12:40 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: May 27, 2006, 9:46 pm
Posts: 1654
Location: BC, Canada. eh?
Absolutely! Any trapped air in the system can cause hot spots, boiling, and a bunch of other problems.

In my (our) case, though, the top of the rad & inlet hose is the highest point in the system, by several inches, so (in theory, at least) it should be relatively simple to purge all the air from the system. Of course, there's always another option - while filling & purging the system, jack up the front of the car 6"-8", to make the rad top the highest point by far!

_________________
Scratch building, at continental-drift speed, a custom McSoreley-design framed, dual-Weber 45DCOE carburated, Zetec-engined, ridiculously fast money pit.

http://zetec7.webs.com/


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: February 6, 2017, 4:52 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: July 4, 2006, 5:40 pm
Posts: 1859
Location: Novato, CA
I burned two exhaust valves before finally adding a pressurized header tank to the firewall. Now any air in the system ends up in the tank instead of the cylinder head.


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: February 6, 2017, 8:06 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: May 27, 2006, 9:46 pm
Posts: 1654
Location: BC, Canada. eh?
I do have a closed-system overflow tank plumbed in, so the system can add and subtract coolant as it requires. I'm hoping that's all it needs - 'course, that's all the Ford Focus (the engine's donor) had, and it worked, so...we'll see! If worst comes to worst, I can add a pressurized expansion tank later.

_________________
Scratch building, at continental-drift speed, a custom McSoreley-design framed, dual-Weber 45DCOE carburated, Zetec-engined, ridiculously fast money pit.

http://zetec7.webs.com/


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: February 8, 2017, 4:59 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: January 14, 2006, 1:06 pm
Posts: 797
Location: Vista (north of San Diego CA)
It's been a long time ago, but I looked into galvanizing my frame before deciding to paint it. The shop I called said there could be no closed tubes and any that were closed would have to have a 1/2" hole drilled at each end. I decided to go with Por-15. The frame was getting a lot of surface rust after a couple of years in the making. I just went over it lightly by hand with about a 180 grit sand paper. What didn't get sanded off got painted over. That was over 10 years ago and the frame is basically still in good shape. By the way, this is the only car we have in the garage. If I were to do it over again, I would probably just spray the frame with Rustoleum. I've had great luck with the stuff on other projects.


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: February 9, 2017, 4:19 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: July 4, 2006, 5:40 pm
Posts: 1859
Location: Novato, CA
I'm a big fan of Rustoleum, either brushed on or thinned and sprayed with a gun. Rustoleum in spray cans, however, is junk IMO. Whatever they add to make it come out of those tiny nozzles keeps it from ever drying or sticking, regardless how much you prep.


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: February 9, 2017, 5:34 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: May 27, 2006, 9:46 pm
Posts: 1654
Location: BC, Canada. eh?
We get Rustoleum here in Canada, but Tremclad has always been the go-to rust paint. Funny - I searched Tremclad & Rustoleum, and discovered that they're the same company. Who knew?!

Going through various forums (fora?) on the 'net, I'm also seeing a lot of positive information on Krylon's Rust Protector paint. Supposedly, it results in a harder finish, dries faster, and has better rust-inhibitor performance than other similar paints.

Has anyone here tried it? If so, how is it holding up?

_________________
Scratch building, at continental-drift speed, a custom McSoreley-design framed, dual-Weber 45DCOE carburated, Zetec-engined, ridiculously fast money pit.

http://zetec7.webs.com/


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: February 9, 2017, 11:19 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: July 17, 2008, 9:11 am
Posts: 4363
Location: West Chicago,IL
I'm a big fan of Rustoleum. it goes on easily, whether brush, roller, spray( and sometimes bit mix of all 3. Touchup is easy and virtually invisible. And let's face it, we don't need much rust protection. Our cars do not have to withstand years of salted roads.

_________________
Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

My RX7 powered Locost is now for sale http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=40&t=18460

or visit my Cushman Truckster resurrection log: over HERE


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: February 10, 2017, 4:34 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: July 4, 2006, 5:40 pm
Posts: 1859
Location: Novato, CA
I've used Krylon for a couple of parts and was impressed. They seem to have rattle can technology down. I especially appreciated how quickly and completely the paint dried. The parts are not in high-wear areas but they still look good as new. That said, rattle cans are still rattle cans and you'll never get the best coverage with them.


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: September 19, 2017, 6:01 pm 
Offline

Joined: April 26, 2016, 1:54 pm
Posts: 17
Location: Houston, TX
Near my previous house in Houston was a place that applied the galvanizing coating on lamp posts. I would see flatbed 18-wheelers arriving with un-galvanized parts and leaving with galvanized ones. Places like that ought to be able to accommodate the frame for a 7.


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: November 21, 2017, 1:55 pm 
Offline

Joined: January 5, 2011, 11:09 pm
Posts: 22
Location: Easley, SC
Keep in mind, you will run into issues with welding after a frame or component is galvanized. If you weld on galvanized steel it gives off toxic fumes that will cause nausea. It’s not the end of the world and the effects are temporary. A remedy includes drinking buttermilk (gag me).
If welding on a new bracket or gusset, making a repair, etc, it’s best to grind off all the galvanizing at that spot and the area that will be heated. Use good ventilation and try to stay out of the fumes. After welding you could cold spray galvanize a coating back on but it prob won’t look the same as electro galvanized.
It’s your project and you know what appearance you can live with, just proceed with all of the facts. I don’t think these cars will need such extravagant protection from salted roads and corrosion and with the good paints available life will be much simpler.
Cheers,
Skidzzz

_________________
japanese proverb - If you fall down seven times.............stand up eight.


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: November 21, 2017, 4:45 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: January 2, 2009, 1:45 pm
Posts: 1144
Location: Halifax, Nova Scotia
Galvanizers will not dip anything with closed tubes. The common solution to that is drilling holes to allow the zinc to enter and drain each tube that isn't open ended, but the drainage holes might prove embarrassingly large in 1 inch RHS.

_________________
Warren
Isuzu Pickup/SR20DE, +401 COLD frame
Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=11601


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 27 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1, 2

All times are UTC - 5 hours [ DST ]


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 2 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  
POWERED_BY