LocostUSA.com

Hi all,

So when I sold my last Locost project to move overseas, I threw in Keith's How to Build a Cheap Sportscar book with the purchase (it was around a $20 book then). Now, they are north of $70 on Amazon (which isn't very Locost)!

Now that I am going to be building again (Gibbs with Vodou or Saturn mods for a Miata donor), I am looking at several things that I would love to reference from that outstanding book. But I don't have it. Does anyone have one I could borrow? Anyone have scans of a few pages they could part with? Right now I'm looking at the steering rack and design, which starts on page 20 I think...

Thanks!
Randy

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My Haynes/Miata build: http://locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=3774

Keith's website, cheapsportscar.net has everything the book contained plus more! Check it out.

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Mike - Read my story at http://twinlakesseven.blogspot.com/

Thanks, and I have! It doesn't show much about the steering though - it is one of the very first blog entries. The book actually has some detail behind each of his blog entries on the website.

I appreciate the info though!

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My Haynes/Miata build: http://locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=3774

I have the book. Maybe I can run some photo copies and shoot 'em to you via snail mail. What exactly are you looking for?

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Mike - Read my story at http://twinlakesseven.blogspot.com/

Is this the page you need? Hopefully it's readable...if you click on it, it'll get larger & easier to read.

Hope this helps.

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Scratch building, at continental-drift speed, a custom McSoreley-design framed, dual-Weber 45DCOE carburated, Zetec-engined, ridiculously fast money pit.

http://zetec7.webs.com/

Thank you all so much! This forum is awesome.

Now that that is out of the way, has anyone used a different solution - I see that Keith is recommending the cut and weld. Maybe someone has found a manual rack that is close to the proper length? If not, is it really a bad idea to cut off one end and tap it?

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My Haynes/Miata build: http://locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=3774

Cut and weld on the case is not a bad idea. It is common practice.

Disclosure: The following is a layman's response: Some here recommend using a thread "forming" tap rather than a thread "cutting" one. I personally tapped my RX7 rack. I have read many papers stating that the strength of the "formed" thread is equal to or higher than a "cut" thread. I have also read that the "cutting" tap is more tolerant of variations in hole size. In either case, my opinion is that in this application, the differences in strength are inconsequential. I wouldn't give a 2nd thought to either method.

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Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

I had my rack end cut and then drilled and tapped and the case cut and welded. I have driven my car more than 21000 miles without any problems. I think it was a 17mm tap, if I remember. Any machine shop can do it.

I had my Chevette rack & housing shortened by a machine shop, and I'm very happy with it. The housing was cut & TIG welded on a lathe, and the dummy end was cut & threaded on the lathe. The assembly is just as strong as it was when it was brand new and, considering it's in a car weighing half as much as the one it was designed for, it will certainly outlast my car...and me.

I might have tried shortening the rack itself (I have a lathe), but the housing was outside my comfort zone (and I don't have TIG). IIRC, the cost of the job was actually very reasonable indeed.

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Scratch building, at continental-drift speed, a custom McSoreley-design framed, dual-Weber 45DCOE carburated, Zetec-engined, ridiculously fast money pit.

http://zetec7.webs.com/

I shortened a manual rack for my car by cutting the end off , the drilling and tapping too. It's been working great for several years. I shortened the housing by cutting an equal piece out of the steel tube between the cast aluminum end housings, then made an interference fit sleeve to join the pieces. I heated up the sleeve, put it all together, then tacked the sleeve in four spots on each side of the joint. The sleeve is also machined to the correct outside diameter to fit some stainless u-bolt clamps that I had, and these clamps mount the rack to the frame.
Kristian

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V6 in a book frame build. Now registered.
viewtopic.php?f=35&t=7587
viewtopic.php?f=33&t=18172

I shortened my housing by cutting a section out using my trusty 4-1/2" HF angle grinder with cutoff wheel. Then..... lay the 2 parts to be welded in a piece of angle iron to align them. Tack in 2 places. If you need to, insert the rack to align the end bushings when tacking. Rotate 90 degrees and tack again. Then finish with a mig weld. It is not rocket surgery, or should that be brain science?

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Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

In my case (Chevette rack) the housing is cast aluminum. If it had been steel, I would have done it at home, but alas, without TIG, I needed outside assistance...

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Scratch building, at continental-drift speed, a custom McSoreley-design framed, dual-Weber 45DCOE carburated, Zetec-engined, ridiculously fast money pit.

http://zetec7.webs.com/

I'm using a stock MGB rack. Works perfectly.

Hey Nick,

I just read through your whole build. Really nice work!

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My Haynes/Miata build: http://locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=3774

Thanks, it was a lot of fun to build.