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 Post subject: McSorley 7 +442e
PostPosted: March 24, 2020, 7:11 pm 
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Good evening. This is a question about converting 1" square tubing prints to 1 1/4". I assume that you have to subtract 1/2" from any length of tubing that goes between two others, whether horizontal or vertical. I guess if you want to build to spec of the blue prints, that is the way to go, and what I will do. But, I guess that you could go either way, there is nothing written in stone. Just wondering what other builders have done? Thanks, Don


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 Post subject: Re: McSorley 7 +442e
PostPosted: March 24, 2020, 8:23 pm 
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Steel tubing sizes are not precisely made. If I wanted to use larger tubing, to reduce the likely-hood of inconsistent math errors, I'd convert the dims to centerline measures so it stays symmetrical but would probably be about 0.50" larger.

If you want it to be exact, why not use the spec'd tube size?

You could also just start with outside dims then work your way through the middle.

I thought someone found errors in the book dims anyway.

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 Post subject: Re: McSorley 7 +442e
PostPosted: March 24, 2020, 8:55 pm 
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OldLotusGuy wrote:
Good evening. This is a question about converting 1" square tubing prints to 1 1/4". I assume that you have to subtract 1/2" from any length of tubing that goes between two others, whether horizontal or vertical. I guess if you want to build to spec of the blue prints, that is the way to go, and what I will do. But, I guess that you could go either way, there is nothing written in stone. Just wondering what other builders have done? Thanks, Don


Yes, and no. If depends on what you plan on building and if/where you are sourcing body parts from. i.e. if you are buying fiberglass from Kinetic, then the nose determines the overall width at the front, and the windshield frame from him also determines the OAW at the scuttle. I'm not sure how these fit the McSorley chassis. You could also decide to keep the inside dimensions the same and let the width of the chassis grow accordingly. Thus my yes and no answer.

As MV8 has said, there is nothing wrong with 1" tubing. A lot of cars have been built using it. I've never heard of a chassis failure.

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 Post subject: Re: McSorley 7 +442e
PostPosted: March 25, 2020, 3:13 am 
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If you're going to use the 442e drawings and decide to use Jack's fiberglass pieces (Kinetic) you will have to add center sections to both the scuttle and the nose piece. Therefore the width dimension is really not that critical, a 1/2" will not make a big difference.
Roy

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 Post subject: Re: McSorley 7 +442e
PostPosted: March 25, 2020, 9:19 am 
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Just don't forget about rear end width when increasing chassis width ... Do you already have a donor? If so, that may drive your decision.

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 Post subject: Re: McSorley 7 +442e
PostPosted: March 25, 2020, 3:51 pm 
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Warren Nethercote wrote:
Just don't forget about rear end width when increasing chassis width ... Do you already have a donor? If so, that may drive your decision.
What Warren said. Measure inside of RR tire to inside of LR (that's Left Rear, not Left Right) tire, and subtract at least a couple inches for chassis width.

YMMV, and I have a bit less than an inch clearance per side on MAX (book width, early Toyota Corolla live axle) but I've had to learn to be careful pulling into places where one side is higher than the other, and to tolerate a teenie bit of rub when I swing into the poorly designed driveway of my local DQ.

[Edit: For IRS, you maybe need more for the big bumps.]

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 Post subject: Re: McSorley 7 +442e
PostPosted: March 25, 2020, 5:21 pm 
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My frame is based on a 442E plan. I have a Fox Mustang 8.8 rear end. My frame is 46" wide at the rear.
Attachment:
1st item in new garage (2).JPG
1st item in new garage (2).JPG [ 58.78 KiB | Viewed 166 times ]


With the swing arms, it fits nicely. If you are using a lower powered motor you could also use the 7.5" rear end from the Fox bodied Mustang. They are the same size and very cheap. Some even come with posi.


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 Post subject: Re: McSorley 7 +442e
PostPosted: March 28, 2020, 3:54 am 
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JackMcCornack wrote:
Warren Nethercote wrote:
Just don't forget about rear end width when increasing chassis width ... Do you already have a donor? If so, that may drive your decision.
What Warren said. Measure inside of RR tire to inside of LR (that's Left Rear, not Left Right) tire, and subtract at least a couple inches for chassis width.

YMMV, and I have a bit less than an inch clearance per side on MAX (book width, early Toyota Corolla live axle) but I've had to learn to be careful pulling into places where one side is higher than the other, and to tolerate a teenie bit of rub when I swing into the poorly designed driveway of my local DQ.

[Edit: For IRS, you maybe need more for the big bumps.]


As a counter point, the strategy above is based on letting your axle width and wheels constrain the width of your frame, but you could also build the frame as wide as you need (within reason) and select rims with a low offset, and/or use wheel spacers as needed to create enough clearance to the body.

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