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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: February 6, 2016, 1:04 pm 
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Joined: March 14, 2015, 2:50 pm
Posts: 36
Location: S.W. Michigan
Hey guys i found these, they seem like they would be perfect for our needs. The one recommendation in the comments and reviews was to remove the casters and add a jam nut to lock them and eliminate any play

http://www.sears.com/selby-2000-lb-capacity-heavy-duty-leg-leveler/p-SPM8144697125

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PostPosted: February 6, 2016, 2:09 pm 
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Joined: August 11, 2012, 4:44 pm
Posts: 1422
Location: Charlotte, NC
Here's mine.

2x4's all around and 4x4's for the legs. No supports. At 1 year it's starting to sag in the middle. Might rebuild the top and use 2x6's as the long supports.

Attachment:
image.jpg


Attachment:
image.jpg


Stupid iPhone, sorry the pic is turned 90*.


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PostPosted: February 6, 2016, 2:51 pm 
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Joined: December 17, 2010, 1:24 pm
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Location: Gainesville, Mo.
Quote:
sorry the pic is turned 90*.


I'm glad you mentioned that. I was trying to figure out why you mounted the table to the wall! :roll:

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PostPosted: February 6, 2016, 6:04 pm 
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Location: Charlotte, NC
ngpmike wrote:
Quote:
sorry the pic is turned 90*.


I'm glad you mentioned that. I was trying to figure out why you mounted the table to the wall! :roll:


I like to live life on the edge, a 90* edge.

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PostPosted: February 8, 2016, 10:40 am 
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Joined: December 4, 2010, 1:53 pm
Posts: 109
Location: Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
As a carpenter, I would not make the table frame out of dimensional lumber. IMHO, there is no such thing as a perfectly straight 2x4, period.
I made the base for my build table out of 3/4" x 12" plywood meant for shelves. I made the top out of 49x97" MDF, and I hung the MDF over the sides of the base to make it convenient to clamp things to it.
The table top is dead flat. I also like having the table low, because you end up crawling all over it, and that's awkward when it is 3 feet in the air.

I solved the issue of moving the engine in and out by mounting a barn door track the the ceiling, centered with the table.

Have fun with your build!
cheers
Doug

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PostPosted: May 31, 2017, 10:14 pm 
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Joined: December 17, 2010, 1:24 pm
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Location: Gainesville, Mo.
Just thought I'd bump this one to the top for some of the newbies out there! :D

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PostPosted: May 31, 2017, 11:35 pm 
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Joined: November 11, 2013, 4:47 am
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Location: No. Nevada
Construct?
Nah, bought a 4'x10' steel top table from the estate of the fabricator next door.
Later realized that if I had waited until the trailer being used to haul the unsold stuff away was full I probably could have had it for free. :BH:
Also bought his pallet jack in order to be able to move it around as it is not light.

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PostPosted: June 1, 2017, 12:05 pm 
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Joined: December 17, 2010, 1:24 pm
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Location: Gainesville, Mo.
WOW, Richard, major score! :cheers:

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PostPosted: June 1, 2017, 12:37 pm 
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I did recently add a 1" 4x8 sheet of MDF on top that I marked out with a 2" grid for ease of initial layout.
Used black for the 12", green at 6", and red every 2".
I have to modify an existing design so the grid makes for easy reference.
The MDF is not bolted down so comes off when the tubes are ready to weld.

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PostPosted: June 1, 2017, 2:25 pm 
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Joined: December 17, 2010, 1:24 pm
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Location: Gainesville, Mo.
Got any pics?

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PostPosted: November 20, 2017, 12:47 pm 
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Joined: November 13, 2017, 7:35 pm
Posts: 49
RichardSIA wrote:
I did recently add a 1" 4x8 sheet of MDF on top that I marked out with a 2" grid for ease of initial layout.
Used black for the 12", green at 6", and red every 2".
I have to modify an existing design so the grid makes for easy reference.
The MDF is not bolted down so comes off when the tubes are ready to weld.


Now that's a good idea! I will be doing the same thing when I build my table in the coming weeks.


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