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My Miller Syncrowave 250 is the most expensive tool I own. I'd like to complain about it in some way, but I can't. It's been a perfectly reliable welder, and, try as I might, I can't bad-mouth it at all. The only other accessary I'd like is a finger-controller.

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Midlana book: Build this mid-engine Locost!, http://midlana.com/stuff/book/
Kimini book: Designing mid-engine cars using FWD drivetrains
Both available from https://www.lulu.com/

Yeah, I spent a lot more than I had to on a wire feeder, getting the Lincoln 135 Plus. The idea is, it can be upgraded, and it can do more than I can now so as I get better, it remains useable. If I go TIG, I might want to get started with the over $1,000 unit from HF, but then again, why not bite the bullet and go with squarewave right off the bat? It's not all that much more.

But I do think if you just want some cheap fluxcore for the moment, things like what Harbor Freight has can be just fine. Pep Boys has I think a $120 unit, and a $60 stick welder. Especially for a beginner who can't do a better job than the unit just yet, if it's all you can afford, go with it.

Making space frames is sheet metal welding. The tubing is still relatively thin as material goes. Making a trailer that will carry a car is getting into the same type of welding as structural, buildings and bridges. My fluxcore gets to .250", and MIG to .3125". Will I have to weld anything that heavy on the LoCost?

Basically, it was the biggest one that would run on common electricity. It'll be portable for me if I get a bigger one to leave in the garage later. Planning for ongoing useage.

In an old thread, I was reading someone mentioning he'd welded with oxyacetylene, and the aluminum hadn't melted. Depending on the alloy, it will melt in the 1,200-1,300 F range. Gas will work, but I've always heard TIG is the way to go with aluminum. Never heard DC won't work with it, it's my understanding that aluminum is TOO conductive, that's why it caused so many home and business fires when they used it for electrical wiring in the 70's-80's.

And before I wanted to edit a typo on my post, but when I hit the edit button it logged me out instead. I wrote a post when it gave me a box describing this, but it asked me to log in again and it was lost. The next one I just made that comment, to get something up there. It edits now, I guess this other clutter can get edited out too.

Sorry about the posting problems. I was updating the database at about the same time you had your issue. It should be fine now.

But to get back on topic, that HF unit is only $200, cheap enough IMO to just buy it and try it. If my wife hadn't already gave me the "well don't you aready have a welder?" line, I'd have it. That was my approach when I bought my HF "dual mig 131" back over 4 years ago. I wanted to learn to weld and you couldn't argue with the price at $160. It runs on 110 and welds flux core or gas, I use gas (I have about another $180 in my gas bottle, regulator, and auto dimming mask.))and get some decent welds (most of the time) when I'm in position and have the settings set properly. It seems plenty powerful for anything I've encountered so far. Early on in my build I had to alter the amount I tapered the tubes since I was burning through more than I liked.
So you can do it on the cheap if you are willing. I have another HF welder called the "hobby arc 90" that is kept at the "camp" up in the mountains waiting to fix something.

My chassis is nearly complete and I've used nothing but my cheap ghetto HF welder.

My welds are pretty ugly, but I think they penetrate enough. I thought I'd post some pics of some of the typical welds on my chassis and you can see what it is capable in the hands of a self taught hack.

Imagine how good the welds would look if the person who was doing it was a welder.

Moral of the story is, don't think I can justify buying a better welder when I can't use my cheapo to its full potential.

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He is a wise man who does not grieve for the things which he has not, but rejoices for those which he has.

I don't think they are very ugly at all...I have seen much worse...from "self taught hacks".

Like many things, I feel like I learn just a little bit more every time I get the welder out to make something.

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-Jeff

Project Seven
Instagram: @RexRacer19

Just like:
Seat time, seat time, and more seat time.

It's true.

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He is a wise man who does not grieve for the things which he has not, but rejoices for those which he has.

I'd take that as the worst I ever do. Sometimes I'm patient and they're great. Sometimes I'm in a hurry. . . .

Seat time, yeah, where I learned welding, you sit down with a piece of metal and destroy it going over and over and over again, until the instructor thought you were consistent with that one weld. Then you started on another the same way, until you had developed your skills at ever sort of angle (Including hanging) you might ever have to make. Eventually, you graduated to filler metal if you were in TIG or gas, or just got to start welding 2 pieces together and making root passes if you were MIG or stick.

Tough way for a hyperactive adult like myself to learn, but it's still about the best way I can think of for welding. I wasn't the only self-taught hack in there who saw a huge improvement. Sure does use up a lot of metal, though.

Still cheaper than seattime on the track.

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What if the Hokey Pokey really IS what it's all about?

2000 Plymouth Neon
1999 Beetle
1999 Cherokee
1990 Eclipse
1989 Jaguar Vanden Plas

It think those are fine. There is some undercutting, but they seem to penetrate fine.

That is the same welder I started with years ago. I raced a race car that was built with that welder, without ever having a problem due to any of the welding.

I have since upgraded to a Lincon that seems to work better, but is about the same size. I like it because I can take it with me to the race track as an emergency repair, and I have used it with a portable generaor.

I think the Lincon is better than the HF, and it was really no more expensive. I got the Lincon from Lowes.

Your seat time comment is why I took welding classes at my local community college. The tuition was less than the materials, gas and electricity I used in the class.

I'd like to be a self-taught hack some day, but I'm having trouble keeping my instructor awake.

Actually, my biggest problem is I can't see very well. I can see what I've done, but can't see what I'm doing. This getting old stuff ain't for sissies, I'll tell ya...

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Locost builder and adventurer, and founder (but no longer owner) of Kinetic Vehicles

I would recomind the Lincon version of that machine instead. the Lincon is a little bit cheaper for starters and is has much better low amperage arc charicteristics. We had 3 of those syncrowaves at work (they were the 300 amp version though) we sent them all back bc they didnt like to fire off at low amperage (<50). We replaced them with the Miller dynasty inverter machine they work wonderfully but they are spendy. the Lincon can be found for under 2,000 bucks with the package that inlcudes all of your torches and leads. It dosn't have a water cooler but that isn't neccisaraly a bad thing. this is what I plan on buying after my audi is free and clear. My boss has one at home and says its been a realy good machine

I think your welds look fine. Very fine in fact. I'd suggest making a weld on a couple pieces of scrap and then cutting through it with a bandsaw or saber saw and checking your penetration.

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Kerry Pinkerton
Metalshaper

http://wheelingmachines.com

Id say get both. and you can use the mig for things that need to be done quickly but dont have to look nice or hold air water or gasolene.

but if you are limited to only one machine, i would say tig all day. no question. it may take a little more work to get good at it. but its worth it entirely. a tig will do everything a mig can do ... not the other way around. I wouldnt really trust a mig weld to hold water or air on anything 16 gauge or thinner.

Alot of people say a mig will get into spots a tig cannot but in my experieance the only spots that i couldnt tig in (shoulder deep in an engine bay where I cant slip my other arm in) is gonna be a low accuracy spray and pray approach with a mig anyways(and whod want that besides a muffler shop).

keep in mind in most cases it only takes one arm to tack weld with a tig anyways.

A size 20 tig torch with a button back cap will fit anywhere a mig gun will and an mt125 torch head will fit where a mig gun will not( mt125 costs $100 and has a head the size of a pencil. )

and in reality doing aluminum welding with a mig is a joke without a spool gun. Add the price of a mig machine and a spool gun and you have enough money for a basic tig.

ps. tig welds look alot better

No argument there. Those look nice.

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He is a wise man who does not grieve for the things which he has not, but rejoices for those which he has.

Beautiful welds. What type of material is that? The heat distortion in the weld looks like Ti.

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If you can't buy it, build it.

thanks for the kind words.

the tubing is 304 stainless and the vband flange turned out to be some lower grade stainless as it started rusting over time.

stainless gives that colorful heat affected zone, titanium is similar but different.

ive yet to personally try inconel but I would certainly like to.

Tom,

The welds are beautiful to say the least.

How long have you been welding? Yes, I understand 'seat time' is important.

DFE