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PostPosted: February 23, 2016, 10:06 am 
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Wait before we close I would like to know where and in what form I could get some Feran? I have read that Ferrari was using it until they switched to aluminum chassis. The problem with materials like this is that they aren't very commonly available. So hey Dave W any advice?


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PostPosted: February 23, 2016, 10:54 am 
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vroom wrote:
Wait before we close I would like to know where and in what form I could get some Feran? I have read that Ferrari was using it until they switched to aluminum chassis. The problem with materials like this is that they aren't very commonly available. So hey Dave W any advice?


Feran is a brand name - like Kleenex is tissues. I've never seen it commercially available here in the states, but its really just aluminum clad steel.

Places like onlinemetals etc all sell sheets of aluminum clad steel. My local steel mill knows it as "clad steel"

http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cf ... HwodklAFAg

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PostPosted: February 23, 2016, 11:30 am 
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1055, the link you provided is for al-clad aluminum sheet. From what I recall from my school days, its a high strength aluminum with a cladding of "pure" aluminum to prevent corrosion.

I did some searching and ASTM A463 is al-clad steel.

Rod


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PostPosted: February 23, 2016, 11:39 am 
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Sam_68 wrote:
Simply that they are both entirely reasonable, and well-proven construction methods, yet there are some that are suggesting entirely spurious shortcomings, I'm guessing because they think it makes them look more important and knowledgeable.
Except that you never actually stated, indicated, or implied that they are both so, up until this moment, and have followed up with your own attempts to look more important and knowledgeable. Your almost exclusively attacking the person rather than the ideas, gross overreactions, inability to agree to disagree on matters of opinion, and unwillingness to tone down your rhetoric have been unbefitting of the stature of the position(s) you claim to hold. And not that you have been entirely alone in doing so, but which nonetheless shows a lack of professionalism that I would not expect from any type of reliable or trustworthy source of information. Your choices here have done no favors to your own credibility. Admittedly, I too have not been entirely immune to such self-righteous follies of ego and arrogance either.

I'm also still not clear on exactly what evil are you saving us all from with your rancor about the apparent impossibility for tubes having holes in them to be insufficiently sealed, nor for the floor pan to be subjected to fire and/or debris in an accident...Making a car that's protects us too well from low probability safety concerns? Other people had already made outwardly unbiased contributions to the thread that noted both the benefits and shortcomings, of both aluminum and steel, and that you too have just now finally followed up with your agreement to. Note that MiataV8 also even positively noted dipping the rivets in some type of sealant before installation on aluminum floors, beyond just the sealant between the floor and frame. There was never any reason for anyone resorting to tactless negativity over a simple to difference of opinion on weather welded tubular assemblies are more likely to form rust from the inside out when drilled and wet-riveted, or whether there exist any potential (fire/impact) safety differences between the two materials.

Now this is where this thread could actually become beneficial again: I have seen accident scenarios that I would never have otherwise been able to anticipate, and as such am not willing to simply rule out the possibility that the floor could become part of the "firewall" during a car fire after a wreck, or that objects could impact the floor with penetrating force. If you have empirical data to counter any of these potential concerns, beyond anecdotal evidence, I'd honestly appreciated it if you could/would share that with us. Or at least point us in the right direction to find it. While I've been leaning towards welding in individual steel patch panels for my floor, for my own (mostly irrational) reasons, I'm also still considering an aluminum floor as well...Although, that too could also be attempted in a manner that would not require drilling into any chassis tubes either.

Also consider that many specialty cars have also been successfully built and driven, for many miles, with little attention paid to seriously preventing spinal compression fractures from vertical impacts...And for the most part, nothing has come of it such that most people don't find it to be a significant concern. Yet we have a member of this site who had this happen just recently, and who has given many of us reason to give this oft overlooked safety aspect further consideration as well...Even if people outside of this community might otherwise find such arguments to be some type of 'red herring'.

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Last edited by Driven5 on February 23, 2016, 2:47 pm, edited 20 times in total.

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PostPosted: February 23, 2016, 11:48 am 
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I agree with Chuck. Close this thread.

LocostUSA is easily the least Internet-like forum I know, very friendly and welcoming, with a ton of great information and experience. I think all of us would like to see it stay that way. Take your insults to PMs, like I do.


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PostPosted: February 23, 2016, 12:02 pm 
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cs3tcr wrote:
1055, the link you provided is for al-clad aluminum sheet. From what I recall from my school days, its a high strength aluminum with a cladding of "pure" aluminum to prevent corrosion.

I did some searching and ASTM A463 is al-clad steel.

Rod



Interesting, and duly noted.

http://www.wickeder-group.de/fileadmin/ ... an_eng.pdf

the only documents on the interwebs I've been able to find on Feran come from Germany, and list very little technical specifications. Then again, I'm not very good at reading german. I linked the only English one I could find just above.

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PostPosted: February 23, 2016, 12:19 pm 
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One more thing 1055, the link for the Alclad Aluminium triggered a memory for me. When I was building my Seven over a decade ago I inquired about getting something equivalent to L72 as it was what Lotus used for the floor on the original Sevens. The North American equivalent is 2024, and my metal supplier could only source alclad 2024. In the end I opted for 5052, as it was much cheaper.

Rod


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PostPosted: February 23, 2016, 12:30 pm 
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The laminates are a new one on me, the only thing I can see wrong with it is the wastage because of the max width of 800mm wide. Its a shame it does not come in standard sheet size, it looks like a good product. This is just a thought but has anyone used stainless sheet for a floor?

Bob

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PostPosted: February 23, 2016, 12:48 pm 
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bob wrote:
This is just a thought but has anyone used stainless sheet for a floor?
I believe that Kurt (KB58) did on his 'Kimini'.

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PostPosted: February 23, 2016, 1:04 pm 
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Driven5 wrote:
bob wrote:
This is just a thought but has anyone used stainless sheet for a floor?
I believe that Kurt (KB58) did on his 'Kimini'.


It ticks a few boxes if you think about it. I will look into this to see what gauge and grade would be suitable, its certainly tougher than mild steel so could probably go a bit thinner.

Bob

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PostPosted: February 23, 2016, 1:24 pm 
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I tracked down Feran at a German company who sells in the US but when I described my application the contact went dead. Oh for the good ol' days when we made stuff in the US and had better access to materials. :(


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PostPosted: February 23, 2016, 2:40 pm 
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bob wrote:
Driven5 wrote:
I believe that Kurt (KB58) did on his 'Kimini'.


It ticks a few boxes if you think about it. I will look into this to see what gauge and grade would be suitable, its certainly tougher than mild steel so could probably go a bit thinner.

Bob


I like the appeal of the single sided laminates. Something I hadn't considered until now.. but if you have a single sided laminate, say.. aluminum on one and mild steel on the other as described in the link I provided above, I wonder if you could weld to the mild steel side without botching the integrity of the laminate? that keeps the "rust free" bottom side aluminum, but would also allow you to weld the top side to the bottom of the frame.

interesting..

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PostPosted: February 23, 2016, 3:09 pm 
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1055 wrote:
I wonder if you could weld to the mild steel side without botching the integrity of the laminate? that keeps the "rust free" bottom side aluminum, but would also allow you to weld the top side to the bottom of the frame.
At that point, considering the lightness of our vehicles, wouldn't using some weldable alum oxide primer (or similar) on a steel pan be more in line with what you're looking for?

I think the minutia in this has gotten it a bit far off the beaten path. Think about it... if Colin thought steel was the cats pajamas, he'd have used it, right? "Simplify, then add lightness." If Caterham was in fear of lawsuits, they have used steel, right? Unless you want to do something unique or the application requires it, 95% of all builds will work great with Alum. If you don't want to rivet, you're almost locking yourself into steel.

It seems that it's come right back around to where any discussion about our cars always starts and stops.... it's your car... it's your choice... you just have to make the best choice for your application.

If I was going 4x4 with it... it'd be stainless steel. If I'm worried about protection... I'd double wall it, which I did. If I was worried about speed bumps, which I am, I'll use alum (finally decided and ordered!!) with strategically placed UHMW rub strips. I'm going to use adhesive and place broad headed rivets at appropriate spots. Will that work for your application?? No one, no matter how much experience they have, but you can tell for sure, since you are the one building it.

Others can provide guidance, but in the end... it's all you baby!!!

Cheers!

KS

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PostPosted: February 23, 2016, 3:13 pm 
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botbasher wrote:
I think the minutia in this has gotten it a bit far off the beaten path. Think about it... if Colin thought steel was the cats pajamas, he'd have used it, right? "Simplify, then add lightness." If Caterham was in fear of lawsuits, they have used steel, right? Unless you want to do something unique or the application requires it, 95% of all builds will work great with Alum. If you don't want to rivet, you're almost locking yourself into steel.

It seems that it's come right back around to where any discussion about our cars always starts and stops.... it's your car... it's your choice... you just have to make the best choice for your application.

If I was going 4x4 with it... it'd be stainless steel. If I'm worried about protection... I'd double wall it, which I did. If I was worried about speed bumps, which I am, I'll use alum (finally decided and ordered!!) with strategically placed UHMW rub strips. I'm going to use adhesive and place broad headed rivets at appropriate spots. Will that work for your application?? No one, no matter how much experience they have, but you can tell for sure, since you are the one building it.


Damned good post! :)


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PostPosted: February 23, 2016, 3:17 pm 
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Driven5 wrote:
You never stated, indicated, or implied that they are both so up to this moment

Apologies; I joined the thread quite late, when most of the sensible stuff had already been said. I assumed that people would take it as read that I thought steel was OK from the simple fact that I didn't say it wasn't.

Driven5 wrote:
I'm also still not clear on exactly what evil are you saving us all from with your rancor about the apparent impossibility for tubes having holes in them to be insufficiently sealed, nor for the floor pan to be subjected to fire and/or debris in an accident?...Making a car that's too overbuilt for our own good??

Well for what it's worth the sole advantage of 'Seven' type cars, when you boil it right down to basics, is their lighter weight compared to production sports cars. So yes, it's really a matter of making a car that's not unnecessarily overbuilt, though I think you'll find that the reality is that a car with a mild steel floorpan is also more prone to rust than one with an aluminium one (due to the fact that aluminum 'passivates' its surface by oxidation, whereas oxidation of steel just keeps on going.

Standard practice here in the UK is bonded and rivetted aluminium. Not that steel won't work, just that nobody seems to think it offers any worthwhile advantage (beyond slight cost reduction) and it offers a couple of significant disadvantages in the form of weight and corrosion... but if neither of these bother you, then it's just fine. :)

Of course, if you want to over-build a car, that's your prerogative, but it would be disappointing if a self-proclaimed 'expert' put people off simply doing something properly, because his scaremongering went unchallenged.

Driven5 wrote:
Now this is where this thread could actually become beneficial again: I have seen accident scenarios that I would never have otherwise been able to anticipate, and as such am not willing to simply rule out the possibility that the floor could become part of the "firewall" during a car fire after a wreck, or that objects could impact the floor with penetrating force. If you have empirical data to counter any of these potential concerns, beyond anecdotal evidence, I'd honestly appreciated it if you could/would share that with us, or at least point us in the right direction to find it. While I've been leaning towards welding in individual steel patch panels for my floor, for my own (mostly irrational) reasons, I'm also still considering an aluminum floor as well...Although, that too could also be attempted in a manner that would not require drilling into any chassis tubes either.

Empirical data?

The melting point of aluminum is 660 degrees C. Your domestic oven is capable of about 1/3rd that. Try heating up a sheet of aluminium as hot as you can get it in your oven, then placing your hand on it for even a fraction of a second (warning: it's gonna hurt!). Now imagine the sort of blaze that would be necessary to raise the temperature of a thin sheet of aluminium (which is naturally conductive of heat), in the wreck of a completely open-top and doorless car, to the point where that aluminium sheet starts to lose integrity. Trust me, if you're sitting in the middle of a wreck that's got that hot, the structural strength of the sheet will be the least of your worries.

We had a similar argument against timber monocoques from Miatav8,MstrASE,A&P,F, on the grounds that there's some nasty stuff in the smoke of plywood once it gets burning well, but completely disregarding the fact that its actually quite difficult to get plywood burning well, and if a blaze has gone that far (fueled by petrol, no doubt, which also isn't the best thing to be breathing the combustion products of), then the chemical effects of smoke inhalation will once again be the very least of your worries.

This is all just plain common sense stuff, and having a sense of perspective.

For what it's worth, I'd refer you to race regulations on firewalls. These have been formulated on the basis of many years of painfully-obtained empirical data, yet do not stipulate steel for firewalls. Not even a minimum thickness for aluminium. Just that they need to be of a non-flammable material, and that magnesium is prohibited (I'm quoting from UK regs... I assume that US regs will be similar, because all need to be consistent with FIA global rules at the end of the day).

The inference you can draw from this is that empirical experience has demonstrated that in a major accident, containment of the fire in the engine bay becomes pretty much irrelevant; your driver will be sitting in the middle of an inferno that envelops the whole car, and the best you do for him is to get him out of there fast and/or protect him by means of fireproof clothing for the few seconds it takes to extract him. Everything else is pretty much irrelevant. By the time aluminium starts to melt, he's already dead: witness Lauda's crash, or Roger Williamson's crash (yeah, I know, I shouldn't be watching nasty videos...).

Of course, there's a very remote possibility that you might encounter a situation where a steel floorpan might improve safety, but it's all about balance of risks and drawing the line at a common-sensical point.. Otherwise, might I suggest that you need to take account of the possibility that a Muslim terrorist has planted an IED under the road, or that your psychotic neighbour has decided to snipe at you because your noisy exhaust irritates them, in which case you'll be needing one of these:

Image

I'm reliably informed that they're not that quick, though, and the handling's not quite up to Lotus' standards.


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