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PostPosted: March 19, 2016, 1:58 pm 
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mgarc1973 wrote:
Yeah Marcus showed me those tabs a while back and yeah if they are just made out of 1/8th plate than yeah either the waterjet or the laset would be perfect for things like that, there would be no reaseon to throw those into a mill. I like the adjustability you could get from those tabs for dialing in the suspension, my car is going to be a track car for the most part so I like seeing little ways to fine tune like that. I guess this would be a question for Marcus and the Car9 guys but everything Ive learned says dont bolt through a square tube unless there is a bushing in it to support it, correct me if I am wrong. So for those suspension mounting tabs are they using a bushing to support the tube? Mine are welded on using a jig so I am curious as to how others are doing their suspension.

Its funny that this little At-om kit was brought up because soon I will be building an Ar-i-el At-om inspired exo-car but with either a rear mounted twin turbo LS engine or the new Voodoo engine when Ford decides to start selling it as a crate motor. This is a pet project that the guy who owns the machines has been wanting to do for a while after he saw some of the Pikes-Peak Hill climb cars. When it comes time to start designing it I'll keep you guys up to date probably with a build log!!

Alec


Yes, the Car9 chassis uses bushings welded through the square tubes. The bolt on tabs could be built so that flipping each one over would give a different mount position.
Kristian

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PostPosted: March 19, 2016, 6:22 pm 
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The tabs for the Car9 chassis should be easy to make. When it comes time for Briggs and I to get ours maybe I will make a small bulk buy.

If you're ambitious about looking for something to make - I am interested in building and selling front uprights. We would need an axle pin and some wether pieces to build up a weldment from. What I would like to get to is something that run 13" wheels with 5 degrees of KPI and 1" less offset than the Pinto. If the basic parts where made you could build the uprights with different heights for the axle pin or ball joints without any extra effort, just some allowances in the jigging.

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PostPosted: March 19, 2016, 6:57 pm 
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Yeah when it comes time for you guys to need that stuff just shoot me a PM and I will give you my email so we can communicate easier. The idea od an upright is interesting and I was really debating about building mine for the locost but again I found miata donnor parts for next to nothing so that's the route that I went. I have background in building big offroad trucks and a lot of those guys use kingpin style fabricated spindles so it would really just be make the models and build a jig from that. For our cars they do not need to be anywhere as beefy as the truck stuff, like Radical uses sheet metal fabricated spindles which is pretty awesome. Let me toy around with it a little bit and I will show you what I come up with.

Alec

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PostPosted: March 19, 2016, 7:54 pm 
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I always liked the look of these. I didn't have the required tools or skill set to attempt making a pair. As far as I can tell they are quite feasible for our cars.

http://www.super7thheaven.co.uk/images/ ... right3.jpg
http://www.super7thheaven.co.uk/images/ ... right2.jpg
http://www.super7thheaven.co.uk/images/ ... pright.jpg

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PostPosted: March 21, 2016, 7:05 pm 
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That upright is pretty cool. I like the simplicity but not the single shear heims with high misalignment spacers haha. I mean honestly after taking a look at a couple fabricated spindles and stockers, there are really only two problem areas that I can see and they are establishing the proper geometry, but that shouldn't be too hard if you CAD design it; and getting a hold of the measurements for the snouts (i.e. the taper and the like). But I am sure that there are a ton of resources that I just haven't found yet with all of that information.

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PostPosted: March 21, 2016, 10:12 pm 
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We will be in touch if you are still around when the time comes I need something milled. I have a friend that water jets locally so th

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PostPosted: March 22, 2016, 7:52 pm 
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I'm planning on staying around for a while Briggs haha, I need to catch up on your build log its been a while I was really diggin the work though man!

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PostPosted: March 22, 2016, 11:17 pm 
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mgarc1973 wrote:
I'm planning on staying around for a while Briggs haha, I need to catch up on your build log its been a while I was really diggin the work though man!


Thank you! Im trying to work on it as much as I can. You know that thing called life is getting in my way…

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PostPosted: March 23, 2016, 1:38 pm 
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Dude I completely understand I've got my two project cars, finishing up my undergrad degree, and straying to start my own business, oh yeah and that other thing called work... I totally get it haha.

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PostPosted: March 23, 2016, 4:34 pm 
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I am thinking about making a custom manifold and would like to have a couple of pieces machines, mainly the plate that attaches to the block and throttle body plate. How much do you think it would cost to have those made in stainless.

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PostPosted: March 23, 2016, 6:27 pm 
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Hey wrightcomputing if you shoot me a PM I'll give you my email and we can talk about pricing and design and the like! I am super interested in your project though, I look forward to working with you!

Alec

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PostPosted: March 23, 2016, 6:30 pm 
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wrightcomputing wrote:
I am thinking about making a custom manifold and would like to have a couple of pieces machines, mainly the plate that attaches to the block and throttle body plate. How much do you think it would cost to have those made in stainless.



Why stainless?

Tom

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PostPosted: March 23, 2016, 6:37 pm 
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Off Road SHO wrote:
wrightcomputing wrote:
I am thinking about making a custom manifold and would like to have a couple of pieces machines, mainly the plate that attaches to the block and throttle body plate. How much do you think it would cost to have those made in stainless.



Why stainless?

Tom


Easier to weld, stronger, and sometimes cheaper.

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PostPosted: March 23, 2016, 6:52 pm 
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I was wondering the same thing I know it is way easier to weld (I love welding stainless!!), that being said I've got a little Miller Dynasty 280 and that thing welds aluminum like gravy! The first time I used it I looked like I had been welding aluminum for years. :lol: But yeah I guess for the most part it comes down to what welding machine you have at home and how much you are willing to spend on materials. I think a stainless intake would be cool, I haven't seen many of them.

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PostPosted: March 24, 2016, 6:38 am 
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Off Road SHO wrote:
wrightcomputing wrote:
I am thinking about making a custom manifold and would like to have a couple of pieces machines, mainly the plate that attaches to the block and throttle body plate. How much do you think it would cost to have those made in stainless.



Why stainless?

Tom

The reason I would do stainless over steel is the heat properties. I used Stainless on my headers and the stainless part is about 100 degrees cooler than the OEM steel sections. Colder air intake temperature = more power.
The reason to go stainless over Aluminum is that while I can weld aluminum...... Wait no I can't, I can connect two piece of aluminum together with my welder but cannot do a good job, it looks like crap and I doubt I would get a pressurized manifold.

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