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Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
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PostPosted: March 13, 2017, 12:45 am 
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Joined: May 24, 2016, 7:38 pm
Posts: 17
Thanks for the info on the coolant pipes, very helpful.


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PostPosted: March 17, 2017, 4:59 pm 
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Joined: February 12, 2011, 4:19 am
Posts: 13
Great to see another Ecoboost project.

I've went the same way. I have a 2.0 out of a 2015 Focus St, 6 spd trans from a 2006 Miata, I went with the Ford Perf harness and the N/S conversion. ( http://shopcapaldiracing.com/ ) had the best price on both. The N/S conversion was a good deal as it has the intake, oil pan and assorted piping.

I'm in Minnesota, so with warm weather finally showing I need to have all the boxes at work delivered to my garage at home so my wife will really question my sanity.

Gary


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PostPosted: March 29, 2017, 1:59 pm 
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Joined: May 24, 2016, 7:38 pm
Posts: 17
Great to hear. Have you installed the harness on the engine?
Would like to stay in touch to share our progress.

What is a NS Conversion

Thanks for the info.


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PostPosted: April 4, 2017, 9:27 pm 
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Joined: May 24, 2016, 7:38 pm
Posts: 17
Got it !!

Just ordered mine. I also have a 2.3 oil pan. This kit will save me from modifying the oil tube pick up.

Thanks for the tip!!!


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PostPosted: July 29, 2017, 5:43 pm 
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Joined: May 24, 2016, 7:38 pm
Posts: 17
Making progress. Getting engine ready, working on chassis and making minor changes.

Removed the balance shafts on the Ecoboost, install the new oil pan, oil pick up and oil plug that fed the balance shafts.


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PostPosted: June 17, 2018, 3:34 pm 
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Joined: May 24, 2016, 7:38 pm
Posts: 17
Well.... It has been a while.
Back to the Lotus project. Frame is almost done, made some changes to the tunnel.
Will start fabricating suspension bits, front first.
Choice of tires and wheels are 15 X 7 front and rear tires 205 X 55 x 15 front and 225 x 50 x 15 rear
plenty of tire for a light chassis, Tires will be summer compound Toyo, Dunplop etc.

Have been thinking and figuring suspension set up Droop, roll center etc..

Plenty of room (I think) for the 4 link in the rear. Figuring a simple way to change roll center in the rear.

Rear axle ratio will be 4:11 it seems to be a good match to the engine rpm torque range.

Also want the car not to be a comprise between street and track, everything in the suspension is going to be adjustable to perform in the street and at the track.


Writing the plan, then back to work on the project. This forum is very helpful and would like to thank all of you and the forum creator, it is awesome!!


Thank you


Time really flies


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PostPosted: June 17, 2018, 10:51 pm 
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Joined: October 24, 2008, 2:13 pm
Posts: 5326
Location: Carlsbad, California, USA
You may want to start a build log. You could actually ask the administrators to move this thread to the Build Log section and modify the name.

As to your 4-link, you may want to do Google and Google Images searches on "adjustable Satchell link." That's probably your best bet.

Cheers,

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Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


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PostPosted: June 19, 2018, 8:56 pm 
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Joined: May 24, 2016, 7:38 pm
Posts: 17
Thank you for your advice, really appreciated.

I do have a 4 link that was design for the MGB and we sell it as a kit, it works very well and simple.

I do have a question; Floorboard and firewall. My floorboard will be of steel and fire wall of aluminum. how does everyone doing the same mates the floorboard and firewall?

I will be working on the trans tunnel and floorboards next. Then suspension. I chose this process due to the ease of turning the chassis over, easier to handle.

Any advice is appreciated.

Many thanks.


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PostPosted: June 20, 2018, 8:15 am 
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Joined: October 19, 2012, 9:25 pm
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Location: Summerville, SC
On one car I wrapped the firewall panels over the floor junction. On another I just fitted the firewall to the face of the tubes and sealed all the seams with 3M seam sealer.

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Too much week, not enough weekend.

OOPS I did it again
http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=17496

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http://www.locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=35&t=15216


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PostPosted: June 20, 2018, 12:57 pm 
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Joined: May 24, 2016, 7:38 pm
Posts: 17
Thank you, good advice.
Your advice trigger a couple of ideas, see what you think.
Similar to what you did on your first built.
Will extend the firewall/footwells, with a bend and bolt to the floorboards, then seal them.

Second choice, make the firewall of 24/ gauge steel and weld to the floor. I don't think that it will add that much weight.

The chassis stiffness may be increase.


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PostPosted: October 13, 2018, 4:39 pm 
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Joined: May 24, 2016, 7:38 pm
Posts: 17
I have done some research on glues, epoxy, resin etc...
I have decided to glue the floor board panel to the chassis. Floor board will not carry any load, braces for the seats. Same with the firewall and cockpit panels. Gluing will carry the load evenly.

Then it will have to be seal with sealer.
Has anyone in this forum gone through the process of gluing the panels?


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PostPosted: September 9, 2019, 7:27 pm 
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Joined: May 24, 2016, 7:38 pm
Posts: 17
UPDATE
I have completed the basic chassis. Next on the flow chart is to make motor mounts and transmission mount. Next install the floor pan.

I am going to glue the 16gauge floor using 3M DS-420. It is design to take torsional stress.

Like any other project, I have encounter several speed bumps. Looking for those who have may experienced the same as I did.
1. Great idea on the adjustable A arms, issue is if upper A arm is installed as per the book car, A arms are not symmetrical and coill over has to be place of center, this can cause twisting of lower A arm during hard cornering.

If mounted in line, the swivel will e ahead of the front tube and borrowing space in the radiator realty. Not sure that is an issue, but want to check with those who have experience the same. Video # 2 on adjustable upper A arm. McSORLY 7 442E

2.Engine is 24" told that is 2" to tall. Hood will have to accommodate the extra 2"
3. Read in several places on the net that a 6 speed from a Miata would fit the ECOBOOST 2.0 " NOT TRUE"
4. Engine size will create extra work, thinking of a 3.4 with carburetor keeping things simple (contemplating not decision has bee made thus far)
5. Wheels, was planning on using 17 Ford Cobra wheels.
Issue. Axle has to be about 62-64" from hub to hub, not such thing. The axle I have a 58" from hub to hub.
To use the Cobra wheels I would need a spacer of 3.5 to 4.0" due to the back space of the wheel 7"
Will be using Minilites 15X8 with 4.5 rear space and 15X7 fron with 3.5 back space.

Any advice welcome


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