LocostUSA.com

Learning how to build Lotus Seven replicas...together!
It is currently March 28, 2024, 4:05 am

All times are UTC - 5 hours [ DST ]




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 20 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1, 2
Author Message
PostPosted: June 20, 2016, 8:11 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: June 12, 2015, 11:16 am
Posts: 27
Another option is to make the fuel lines out of plastic with this:

https://www.stockwiseauto.com/dorman-80 ... godCmgCEQ&

You can make perfect bends by dipping the tubing in boiling water, and letting it cool. One kit should have enough tubing and fittings for an entire car.

I would fabricate metal shields to guard the tubing where it passes the universal joints of the driveshaft.

_________________
Rick in Las Vegas (but it's a dry heat...)

Current projects:
http://fordsix.com/viewtopic.php?f=13&t=72863

http://fordsix.com//viewtopic.php?f=2&t=73244


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: June 20, 2016, 10:21 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: August 27, 2005, 1:04 am
Posts: 1414
Location: Kamloops, BC, Canada
Another option for plastic fuel lines is Synflex air brake tubing and compression fittings. http://www.eaton.com/Eaton/ProductsServ ... 195#tabs-2
I was going to run stainless tubing in my car (I'm an instrument mechanic), but my dad suggested this stuff and I thought I'd try it because it's way easier than trying to snake a prebent piece of hardline through the tunnel. It won't do real tight bends, but I figured that wouldn't be an issue. I ran a bulkhead fitting through the fennel sheeting, then did the rest of the fuel line to the car with stainless. It'sgas and oil resistant, and I think the 3/8stuff I used is rated for 300 psi.
Kristian

_________________
V6 in a book frame build. Now registered.
viewtopic.php?f=35&t=7587
viewtopic.php?f=33&t=18172


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: June 20, 2016, 11:49 pm 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: October 24, 2008, 2:13 pm
Posts: 5326
Location: Carlsbad, California, USA
@FieroReinke
@KB58
@C10CoryM
@turbo_bird
@horchoha
@BHRmotorsport
@rx7locost

Thanks all for responding and for the suggestions.

I'll have to admit that I am somewhat of a worrier, but it's based on real-life experience. "Anything that can happen, will happen", is a total truism I have found, but I'd add the qualifier "sometime" to that phrase. Since I'm the "Chief Fool in Charge", if I don't do something about it, nothing will get done and if "sometime" arrives when I have the car, I'll regret the hell out of not doing anything about it.

The hoop is a good technology and well-proven, but I don't have a lot of space for hoops. I'm thinking a steel plate, suitably fastened at a 45 degree angle to the vertical and horizontal structural elements of the tunnel, might be pretty effective. That would give me a triangular shaped sub-tunnel to run things through. I'll explore that with a cardboard mock-up and see where it gets me.

Thanks again,

_________________
Damn! That front slip angle is way too large and the Ackerman is just a muddle.

Build Log: viewtopic.php?f=35&t=5886


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: June 21, 2016, 12:48 am 
Offline
User avatar

Joined: June 8, 2010, 8:02 pm
Posts: 621
Location: White Rock, BC, Canada
You know, a triangular tunnel may be a really good idea. Then either add material to cover the lines/wires and give you and armrest etc. I made my tunnel massive because I wanted to get as much "backbone" as possible, but I would consider a triangle next time.

_________________
Build log: viewtopic.php?t=9291


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
PostPosted: August 5, 2016, 4:42 pm 
Offline

Joined: August 2, 2016, 4:05 pm
Posts: 15
Location: Upper SoCA
On a current project I am using nylon tubing (use the DOT air brake version, it's the highest service temperature rating) and specifically "Wash-Down" type Instant Fittings (aka 'poke-n-hope") from mcmaster-carr for the fuel supply and return lines. The wash-down version is known to have Viton o-ring seals so no normal fuel will bother them, and they come nickel plated. Being V8 powered I used -6 or Ø3/8" for all of this system. I used Thomas & Betts tie-wraps (exclusively) where needed along the run. In hindsight I should have bought AN to NPT (female) bulkhead fittings instead of those brass parts. One goal for the system was no fuel wetted steel parts, plated or otherwise, due to the high corrosion of fuel with alcohol in it. I made bulkhead tabs at each end of the run where I transition to AN/JIC fittings using Push-Lock/Barb-tite type hose ends with Gates Emissions Barrier type fuel hose. It should be noted that those hose ends are not specified for use with that hose. I will comment that I've been running this exact combo of hose and hose end on my semi DD '65 Valiant for over a year with no issues or problems at all. I'll further note that the TBI electric fuel pump is fully suspended/supported by two of of these hose assemblies as an experiment in both noise reduction (can't hear it running at all) and durability (good so far!).
Engine end (excuse the mess, still sorting out the PO's sometimes hasty work):
Image

Fuel tank end:
Image

Valiant's fuel pump (a 45° hose end has since fixed the kink in the supply hose):
Image

Finally, a note on 'P' clamps inspired by a friend's current dilemma. If you use them, be sure of access to remove them once the vehicle is fully assembled. He now has to drop a fuel tank to replace his speedo cable because one or more p clamps are hidden by the tank.

_________________
Cross-threaded is tighter than Lock-tite.


Top
 Profile  
Reply with quote  
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 20 posts ]  Go to page Previous  1, 2

All times are UTC - 5 hours [ DST ]


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 14 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Jump to:  
POWERED_BY