LocostUSA.com

If you post pics of the subframe in place with the skin or cardboard where the skin will be, maybe it can be modded for room or a custom tank fitted but you give up space trying to use an unmodded subframe as a bolt-in (echoing others).

_________________
Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12

I'm down for a few days, I've got Covid.
I start to realize, that I won't have much trunk space with this setup, but I'm still hoping, that eventually I will come up with an idea that may work.
I like to think outside of the box, quite often. I had an idea a few days ago, for example: what if I would(or find one already in that shape) build a gas tank that would look like a muffler, and it would be on the other side of the car?
Or two side tanks in the trunk.
I have just got the rear sway bar assembly from the Bay, and that will be the furthest part that is sticking out, so after this, I know exactly how much room do I have left(not much).
I have a question, how safe it is, to have the gas tank behind me, against the firewall?
I'm also planning to assemble the rear end to see, where the wheel center will be. Diff and all the control arms/knuckles.

_________________
Tibor


'20 Alfa Romeo Stelvio daily
Locost/442E in progress

Okay. What do you plan on carrying in the trunk? Are you planning on overnight or longer trips? Consider a removable luggage rack. I added one on mine that worked out well for 2 people for 3-4 nights.

2nd, I think that Ford (or was it Chevy?) that had gas tanks outside their frame. It didn't work out that well for them as I recall. Not that putting it in the traditional space is much better. Look up Ford Pinto if you don't already know about that one. Custom shapes may make use of the space better than a rectangular one.

_________________
Chuck.

“Any suspension will work if you don’t let it.” - Colin Chapman

Visit my ongoing MGB Rustoration log: over HERE

Or my Wankel powered Locost log : over HERE

And don't forget my Cushman Truckster resto Locostusa.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=36&t=17766

I don't have a plan for this car(I know it sounds weird), the build is the main thing for me.
Most likely it will be a weekend car. So I don't really need trunk space, but it would be nice to still have some lockable space.
The Ebay seller sent me the wrong sway bar, hmmm. At least he will send me for free the right one.
I may extend the length at the rear a few inches and I will see, what I gain with that.
I don't know about Pinto, I did not leave here for that long, only from 1996.

_________________
Tibor


'20 Alfa Romeo Stelvio daily
Locost/442E in progress

I more recently moved the lateral tube that is in front of the gas tank further forward by about 2.5” to allow space for the anti-sway bar.

_________________
japanese proverb - If you fall down seven times.............stand up eight.

The rear crossmember has already the location for the sway bar, and it is done very nicely and compact.
Pictures is from the aussie builder.

_________________
Tibor


'20 Alfa Romeo Stelvio daily
Locost/442E in progress

Oops, still getting the hang of this photo posting

Also I made some upper coilover mount brackets with multiple positions…. The more angle the weaker effect from the spring. It’s difficult to design for the rear weight for one driver versus two big bubbas in the seats. This way I can set the Coilovers almost vertical and have the strongest spring effect. For single driver on streets, I can soften the rear up considerably by mounting the springs at more of an angle.

_________________
japanese proverb - If you fall down seven times.............stand up eight.

It all looks great!!
I always want to go a different route than others, have a car that not everybody has(drive an Alfa Romeo Stelvio), use Android phone , etc, not like everybody else kind of guy.
This Nc build sounded to me pretty unique, something that I haven't seen at all, at least not around here. I know that the NC is a very good handling car as well, which helped make the decision.
Also I knew that I don't want to build this car with an old school suspension(no offense to anybody), I wanted IRS suspension for sure.
I have started looking into NB LSDs and they were hard to come by and very expensive. So I have started looking into other models, newer MX-5, RX8.
RX8 was tempting, cheaper the LSDs, but ratio it was to high. MX-5 NC LSD were quite hard to come by and not cheaper at all, until I have stumbled on an LSD, that the seller did not know that it is an LSD, and I have got it shipped to my house for $313, after doing some investigating work with the VIN #.
Crossmember was $75 from local LKQ, rear suspension both for $200 with two slightly bent arms. May have been intentionally bent for better toe control. But I have replaced them with new ones for $40 each. I only need the half shafts and calipers, and the rear end is complete. Diff has already the upgraded bushings.

_________________
Tibor


'20 Alfa Romeo Stelvio daily
Locost/442E in progress

I've looked to buy a pinto a few times but most were hoarded for racing. Fear sells. At that time, the media also had chevy trucks in their sites for the tank outside the frame. The media went as far as strapping bottle rockets to the fuel tank for staging spectacular accidents (some things never change). Very entertaining to say the least. 18 wheelers generally have aluminum fuel tanks on the sides around bumper height but diesel vapor is not nearly as flammable as gasoline/ethanol vapor.

The main issue is the tank is installed inside the car into a large hole in the trunk floor (versus up against the bottom of a floor with no holes), just like a seven but with more crash protection. Many 70's and older cars have the tank installed this way. With openings for a fuel level sender (no in-tank pumps at the time) and a filler neck through the car body, an accident that deformed the tank could squeeze the tank, spraying fuel out of the accident deformed sender opening or damaged filler neck.

The remedies available are isolation with less invasive sheet steel panels or a fuel cell in a steel box, check valves in the filler neck and vent in case of roll over or tank crush, and expansion space by using a stand pipe in the filler with a small hole in the pipe near the top of the tank, inside. A number of retrofit products have been offered specifically for popular models.

No fear mongering here, just food for thought. It used to be that being conspicuous/interesting was enough to be noticed, but only if they look up from their cell phone. I probably would just build traditionally but might consider a thin, steel rear firewall behind the seat and bolt-in sheet steel trunk floor over the tank.

Lots of good design stuff in Skidzzz pics. Adjustable coilover and diff wing mounts, pinion torque mount, UCA mods, chassis centerline datum string, tapered center holding pin...

_________________
Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12

You saying that a tank behind the firewall would be OK, if I would make the firewall and trunk floor out of steel?
Thanks for that.

_________________
Tibor


'20 Alfa Romeo Stelvio daily
Locost/442E in progress

"Ok" is not the word I would use.

Just about ANY sheet material helps to prevent being splashed with fuel during an accident.
STEEL sheet metal helps to prevent heat and flame from reaching the driver, who may be trying to get out of a wrecked car. It can be thinner than .050"(typical automotive floor thickness) and still be effective.

However, very few known builders use sheet steel to isolate the fuel tank and no lotus seven or caterham comes with steel sheet isolation. Just another consideration if you regularly drive in a congested, accident prone area.

_________________
Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12

My first car was a 1963 Alfa Romeo Giulietta Spyder. My second car was a 1966 Alfa Romeo 2600 Sprint. Later I had a 1976 Alfa 2000 Spyder. Needless to say, I learned how to repair cars (a lot) during that time. It was a great experience, especially driving them . The Alfas have always been a special class of sports car. They handle great, they sound great !! Always thought I’d have another, maybe a 60’s or 70’s GT Junior, GTA or GTV.
I thought for a fleeting moment about using a traditional Alfa drivetrain, 1750 or 2 liter for my Lotus build, but it just seemed like it would be more difficult to use it and the power would only go so far. I then used an NA Miata full donor. Later changed my mind to an NB Torsen LSD, and the 2.0 liter Ford Duratec when I discovered that was what Caterham had been using with great success. And it mates right up to an NC Miata transmission !! Woohoo !! I think the weight of the engine and six speed are about 335 pounds.
So mine is a McSorley 442, and I’m targeting 1300 pounds, with a good tune on the Jenvey 45 ITB’s, an OMEX ECU, and a custom tuned header, I’m expecting to make 185 hp, maybe 190. It should be a hoot. I spent a lot of time evaluating and consulting with Dennis Brunton (R.I.P.) of Brunton Stalker fame, through Jack at Kinetic ( a fine fellow, who is always a great source of knowledge and Locost parts) and bought their GAZ coilover adjustable shocks. Pretty nice quality and much more compact than QA1’s.
I’m not sure what I’m rambling on about….. just waking up having my first cuppa …. Oh yeah, now I remember, the original cars had such tiny , low engines, the cars hood height could be extremely low, (see how I got back in the subject there ), and when using the Duratec it can sit lower than some, and the bonnet (hood) clears fine with the 442 chassis. I hang about an inch below the frame. I did, however modify the nose cone from Kinetic by cutting and adding about 2” in height, so it would cover all the way to the bottom of the frame. The sides come with excess material so you can easily redefine the edges to what suits your car ( or suits your fancy ). Easy peasy. I may even lower the nose cone just a bit as I firm up the radiator mount and tilt of the nose.
Cheers, Skidzzz

_________________
japanese proverb - If you fall down seven times.............stand up eight.

Yes, you can’t begin to imagine how many “ tapered center holding pins “ I’ve had to go through on this build….. you just have to do what it takes.

_________________
japanese proverb - If you fall down seven times.............stand up eight.

Knowing what it takes puts you way ahead already.

_________________
Miata UBJ: ES-2074R('70s maz pickup)
Ford IFS viewtopic.php?f=5&t=13225&p=134742
Simple Spring select viewtopic.php?f=5&t=11815
LxWxHt
360LA 442E: 134.5x46x15
Lotus7:115x39x7.25
Tiger Avon:114x40x13.3-12.6
Champion/Book:114x42x11
Gibbs/Haynes:122x42x14
VoDou:113x44x14
McSorley 442:122x46x14
Collins 241:127x46x12

Thank you guys.
What size Duratec you are using? I went with the Fusion 2.5L. This with itbs should be good for 200HP, per dansengineering.
Your itbs are a very nice setup, to much for my budget. I'm planning to pick up some bike itbs, and make my own manifolds.
At the company, we have just got a nice laser machine.

_________________
Tibor


'20 Alfa Romeo Stelvio daily
Locost/442E in progress